fuel leaking out of choke when I try to start my 1959 for...

chad batterman · Nov 15, 2012

The carb is a marvel-schebler tsx 841.I replaced the float valve and valve seat. The float is set 1/4 in. from the gasket. When I try to start the engine, fuel leaks from the choke. the float is air-tight. It also seals completely when in the up position. It moves freely in the bowl. I have tried setting the float lower whith no success. Why am I having this problem? Also, how important is it that the float be level whith the gasket when in the up position?

souNdguy · Nov 15, 2012

if you choke it too much.. or don't have the relief flap ont he disc in the right orientation , so that it has no vent when choking.. you can get excess fuel that will drip out. pretty common.

chad batterman · Nov 15, 2012

The carb is actually a tsx 813. The relief flap opens inward and seems to be working. Could anything else cause this problem?

souNdguy · Nov 15, 2012

is it leaking constantly.. or only when choked?.

showcrop · Nov 15, 2012

You don't have a carb problem. If it is not already off, remove the air intake tube so that you can monitor what is happening. It is perfectly normal for gas to dribble out the intake if the choke is closed and it does not fire up in about one revolution. you need to be checking for spark and wetness of plugs.

chad batterman · Nov 15, 2012

It only leaks when choked.

souNdguy · Nov 15, 2012

perfectly normal.

when you choke it is sucks a spray of fuel thru.. it has to go somewhere...

chad batterman · Nov 15, 2012

I have good spark. Plugs are wet, though.I possibly wrongfully, assumed that this was due to the air/fuel problem(flooding). Was I mistaken?

Dean · Nov 15, 2012

The engine is badly flooded.

Sandblast or replace the plugs.

If all else is well, it should start.

Dean

chad batterman · Nov 15, 2012

Dean, I've cleaned and gapped the plugs a few times over the past week. I have recently been able to get it started, and it runs well at low idle. The engine starts to roll and dies at 3/4 throttle. This has been the case the four times that I've managed to start it. The low idle screw is out one turn. I've tried again with the high idle out 2 turns, as my tractor mechanic suggested, and also out 1 1/4 turns as the manual suggests with no success. Once it dies, I have only been able to restart after cleaning the badly fuel-fouled plugs. HELP

Royse · Nov 15, 2012

(quoted from post at 21:24:13 11/15/12) I have good spark. Plugs are wet, though.

These don't really go together at startup, unless you're really way over doing the choke.
If it's been flooded that many times, I would try new plugs.
What do you mean when you say "good spark"? Bright white spark?
How/where are you checking the spark?
Flooding while running - with or without the air breather hooked up?

chad batterman · Nov 16, 2012

Royce, when you say "these really don"t really go together at startup" what do you mean by "these". I checked for spark by pulling the spark plugs individually, held them close to a ground point,and cranked the starter. The spark is bright blue-white on every plug. Is there a better way to check for spark at the plugs? (With the air-breather hooked up) When I have gotten the engine to start, it runs great at low idle. The engine sputters and dies at 2/3 to 3/4 throttle, and the once-clean plugs are, again, fuel fouled. could this be a distributor issue, and not a fuel issue. I"m beginning to think thet the once-suspect carb may not be the culprit. Thanks for your reply.

chad batterman · Nov 16, 2012

I may be guilty of excessive choking. I am adressing one issue at a time so as not to fail to hold all things equal. The next time this engine starts, I'm going to remove the gas cap to see if the problem could be caused by a lack of proper venting. This, however, would not explain the fuel-fouled plugs.

showcrop · Nov 16, 2012

Chad, I advised you to remove the intake tube from the carb. Have you done so?
I always need to remove it when I am in a situation like this in order to be able to see where I am.

Royse · Nov 16, 2012

It could be choking itself too.
I would disconnect the air breather and see what it does as showcrop mentioned.
If it doesn't foul the plug then, it may just have a dirty air cleaner.

chad batterman · Nov 16, 2012

I have disconnected the air cleaner from the carb. I greatly appreciate all of your help.I'm optimistic about my chances of solving this problem.

chad batterman · Nov 16, 2012

The sun just came up. I'll go out and try to fix this infernal machine. Thanks for your help. I may need another suggestion, later. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

souNdguy · Nov 16, 2012

it's flooding out then...

souNdguy · Nov 16, 2012

fuel tank venting is not your problem.. at least not right now. it takes a bit of time for that to become an issue.. either boiling or vacume.

chad batterman · Nov 16, 2012

This is definitely not a fuel/air problem. Thanks for setting me on the right track. I have another question, though. I am trying to diagnose an electrical problem. I, now, have no spark at any plug. My service manual tells me to connect an ammeter between the negative battery terminal and the battery terminal of the ignition coil. Turn off the ignition switch and crank the engine with the starter and observe the ammeter reading. Here's my question: Will connecting the ammeter in this way allow me to crank the starter with the ignition switch in the off position? I am a bit of a luddite when it comes to electrical issues. any help will be greately appreciated. I did, however, discover a damaged connector and missing insulation on the wire that runs from the top of the coil to the center of the distributor cap. I'll replace this momentarily. Also, my manual refers to a "high tension" wire. What do they mean by this?

Sean in PA · Nov 16, 2012

(quoted from post at 15:48:25 11/16/12) This is definitely not a fuel/air problem. Thanks for setting me on the right track. I have another question, though. I am trying to diagnose an electrical problem. I, now, have no spark at any plug. My service manual tells me to connect an ammeter between the negative battery terminal and the battery terminal of the ignition coil. Turn off the ignition switch and crank the engine with the starter and observe the ammeter reading. Here's my question: Will connecting the ammeter in this way allow me to crank the starter with the ignition switch in the off position? I am a bit of a luddite when it comes to electrical issues. any help will be greately appreciated. I did, however, discover a damaged connector and missing insulation on the wire that runs from the top of the coil to the center of the distributor cap. I'll replace this momentarily. Also, my manual refers to a "high tension" wire. What do they mean by this?

First, if your starter switch is still wired the way it was originally on that tractor, then you should eb able to put the gearshift in neutral and push the start button and the starter should spin the engine no m,matter what position the key switch is in. If this is not the case, we need more information on how your starter switch is wired to be able to help.

From the title of this thread, this is a 1959 Ford, and since we're talking about the carb, and coil and spark, then it's got a gasoline engine, right? If so, then it was originally 6 volt positive ground. Is it still 6 volt positive ground? If it's been converted to 12 volt negative ground, then you'll want to be using the positive terminal of the battery for your test, not the negative.

The "High Tension" wire is that thick wire from the center of the top of the coil to the center of the top of the distributor cap. "High Tension" is another term for "High Voltage", which is what the output of the coil produces to be able to get a good strong spark.

chad batterman · Nov 16, 2012

Thanks for the info. It's 12 volt negative ground on a gasoline engine. Since my last post, I have solved the electrical problem by replacing all plugs, plug wires, points, condensor, and resistor. Between that and the carb work, she runs like a scalded dog. Now, on to re-soldering and pressure-testing the radiator. My thanks to Royce, Soundguy, Showcrop, Dean, and Sean in PA. for all the helpful info. Also thanks to Tom Bell at Sell Tractor Service, here in Amarillo, Texas. I couldn't have done it without you. I'll be posting any future quandries on Yesterday's Tractor Forum. You guys are the bee's knees!

Royse · Nov 16, 2012

Glad you got it running.
Happy tractoring!

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