1960 641 want to go back to starter buton

Just got done rebuilding my 641 new motor rebuild clutch the works but now i would like to get rid of key starter that was put on here do to safty issues i dont like the fact it can be started in gear.not good learned the hard way grandson got on tractor and got put in gear my fault for not checking. hole in radiator after crashing into work bench.close call know one was hurt.what wire do i need to route back to push button nuteral starter button voltage reg has terminals of iasf I is not used A goes to hot side of starter relay,S goes to massy starter switch that this dude put on,and f goes to alt.when i rerouted the S terminal back to push button by shifter nothing, am i over thinking this up late trying to fix need help Please

also checked button switch with ohm meter looks ok

Who knows what parts were replaced in the conversion?
If you still have the original starter relay one of the small studs is connected to the switched side of the terminal block and the other small stud is connected to the transmission push button.
You mention alternator. Is it a GM 10si? Is it connected with 3 wires or only 1? If it is a 3 wire you will need to install a diode or light bulb in the excite wire or the engine will continue to run when you turn the key Off.

ditto what awhtx said.

the solenoid needs to be an isolated base type..

It is a 3 wire alternator and newer starter relay smaller with 2 smaller pole one on left facing runs back to keyed switch other one is open. electricial trouble shooting is always been my short suit.the gentleman that i got this from rewirwed this and looks like there is no terminal block only volt reg.where and what type diode should i put in,this safety issue is how people get killed and i have rebuilt and come to far not to get this right but this has been fun and a great rewarding adventure so far just one more cure ball to knock out of park

Buy a Ford 8N3679C key switch. Buy a Ford junction block 8NNN1448A. Buy a starter relay that crosses over to Ford 311006. Buy a package of diodes at Radio Shack. Soundguy has posted the correct part number here numerous times.
Get rid of the automotive key switch. Get rid of the voltage regulator- the PO used it as a junction block. The new junction block attaches to the same metal plate on the steering column that the VR is attached to. Get rid of whatever starter relay is on it and replace it with the correct one.
Search this website for wiring diagrams provided by "John in La". He has posted his diagram for the alternator conversion here numerous times.

If the tractor runs and kills when you turn the key off I would not start adding diodes just yet.

Ok so your tractor starts when you turn the key switch to start just like a car. Right???????
The starter relay you have has 2 small post but you are only using one of them. Right????????
This wire on the starter relay small post goes back to the key switch. Right?????

Ok if I am right so far the only part you need to replace is the starter relay because you have a car relay and need a tractor relay.

Your new relay needs to be a ground isolated relay. Ford # 311006 Napa # ECH ST542 or BWD # S103. Install this new relay on the tractor.

Now the wire that runs from the small post to the key switch. At the key switch this wire will be hooked to the S post. Take it off the S post and install it on the R or run post. This will give you power to this wire ONLY when the key is in the run position. That is what you want. You can check it with a test light if you like.

Now get a new piece of wire and run it from the other small post on the relay to the post on the push button on trans.

Now your tractor will only crank when the key is on and the trans is in neutral.

Now if you were having trouble with killing your tractor when turning the key off; or you had some other electrical problem other than it would start in gear we need to start over because I missed your point from the beginning.

Thanks john in la that is what im going to do Thanks