ford 3000 gas back fires and sputters

I have a gasoline 3000 ford year 1966 bought it about a year ago. Most of time starts ok but sometimes she back fires when starting,she hesitates on a hill or when puting a load on the engine,also sputters abit at full throtle.
Does she need points,wires, plugs, condensor and cap or a new carb it has old holley carb?
Thank you

After you give it a tune up, check the intial timing and make sure the advance is working

Do not address carburetor issues until you are certain that the ignition is spot on.

Inspect/replace plugs, points, condenser, cap, rotor, wires, etc. Verify that both the centrifugal and vacuum advance are working properly.

Also verify thet the choke cable fully closes the choke valve.

If you still have issues, look to the accelerator pump.

Dean

ditto what the others said about ignition and that advance on that machine.

How do I check the centrifugal and vacuum advance are working properly ?

Update on this tractor by owner.
I put a can of sea foam in the gas and filled gas tank with a non alcohal gasoline a week ago.
Yeasterday put in a set of points,condensor,rotor and a distibutor cap it started well with no back fireing and sputtered a bit less.last night we got rain and she has to sit outside and she started harder today, temperture was around 28 degrees and sputtering only ran for a few minuts as i got cold. I don't know if the sea foam loosened up junk in the fuel system or if the spark plug wires may have gotten wet with the rain. Are these 3 cyinder gas ford engines in the ford 3000 tractor just cold blooded meaning they need to be warmed up for 10 minuts before they stop there sputtering and hesitateing when trying to run them?

The choke does appear to be working just fine.

(quoted from post at 22:27:09 11/11/12) Are these 3 cyinder gas ford engines in the ford 3000 tractor just cold blooded meaning they need to be warmed up for 10 minuts before they stop there sputtering and hesitateing when trying to run them?

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Not any more cold blooded than any other carbureted gasoline engine from back in the day. I have had motorcycles that were 25 years newer take as long or longer to "warm up", There's a reason that phrase "warm up" made its way into the American vocabulary in regards to the carbureted gasoline internal combustion engine. They need to "warm up", and the colder the engine and the ambient temperature is, the longer it needs to "warm up" before it will run well under load.

I have a 1973 gas 3 cylinder 4000 . In warm weather, above 40 degrees F. I can push the choke back in all the way right after it starts and then let it idle with no choke for a minute or so and it's ready to go.

When the temperature gets below 40 degrees, I need to push the choke half way in after starting and leave it there as it warms up some and then I can put the choke in all of the way, but it still needs to warm up some more after that before it's ready to be worked. The colder it is, the longer I need to leave it on half choke, and the longer it needs to warm up before I can work it.

My test is to move the throttle from idle up to 1800 rpms or so in one smooth movement of the throttle handle, and if it revs up without any stumbling or hesitation then it's ready to work. If it doesn't throttle up smoothly, I put it back down to idle and let it go another couple of minutes.

I've only run mine at temperatures as low as 30 degrees or so at the lowest, and it took a good 7 to 10 minutes or so before it was warmed up to where I could swing the throttle up from idle to 1800 rpms and have the engine smoothly rev up.

Working it hard before it has had a chance to warm up can result in a lot of partially burnt fuel, which will build up carbon deposits on the spark plugs and valves, and lead to poor running, which in turn will lead to more carbon buildup and eventually require more than routine maintenance to keep it running well, if at all.