4000 Ford Gas

My neighbor brought over his 1965 Ford 4000 gas over today for me to look at. Problem is it runs about 5 minutes then quits. I ran it some today and experienced the same problem. After it died I squirted it with starting fluid cranked right back up on starting fluid and kept running as long as I sprayed it.

I started at the fuel tank..looked in it with a light and it was pretty clean. Good fuel flow when line is disconnected from tank. Flushed the remaining lines which were also fairly clean. Removed line from carb and cranked over engine and received good fuel flow from the fuel pump.

I currently have carb all apart and soaking in cleaner. It was a little gunky. Gonna clean it good and get a kit for it. What should I be looking for in this carb? I"m use to working on Marvel Scheblers not Holley"s like this one. Thanks for any help.
 
For proper operation the vacuum accellerator pump must slide easily in the bore.

Float level is CRITICAL due to the accellerator pump. Verify that the float pivot pin bores in the float bowl are not worn egg shapped. You cannot properly set the float if they are.

Verify that the vacuum advance is functioning properly. The accellerator pump will not functioni properly if it is not.

Do yourself a very big favor, bite the bullet and buy a proper but expensive rebuild kit from CNH. Take both the tractor and carburetor serial number with you to CNH when you order your kit.

Dean
 
How expensive we talking? The owner may not be willing to do so. I'll check everything else you mentioned. Gonna let it soak for awhile.
 
The last one that I bought about 5 years ago was nearly $85.00.

Do yourself a very big favor and DO NOT buy an aftermarket kit for a Holley carb.

Dean
 
Are the fuel lines routed properly? Any chance they've been re-run too close to the exhaust?

Mine will shut off after a few minutes if I forget to open the fuel valve, but it sounds like that's not your issue.

If it's not fuel-related, could be the coil.. if you have a spare to swap in, try that. Or just keep the existing one as cool as you can with compressed air and see if that keeps it running.

Good luck -
Greg
 
no need to go to such elaborate measures on the coil.. just check spark at moment of death.. if it has spark.. or stays running on start fluid it is FUEL!
 
I understand the concerns of the aftermarket kit but it is not my tractor..I'll have to check with owner on what he wants to do.

I took sediment bowl apart today to give a good cleaning. Noticed gasket was folded over and partially blocking fuel outlet. I'm sure this is part of the problem. Still has to get some sort of carb kit regardless.
 
that's my point.

your neighbor or customer can either own a dead lump of iron that COULD be worth about 4500$ if it ran.. but 500$ non running.

OR

he could flip for a semi expensive 85$ kit.

or he can clip for a 400ish $ aftermarket carb.

the holley are SUPER finicky.. that's why we suggest using the correct kit for the carb and tractor number..

He might as well sell the tractor now if he's on the fence over spending less than 100$ to amke it a runner.. vs a broke down 500$ non running tractor that is taking a 4000$ value hit.

Kinda like owning a car but refusing to buy gas.

kinda pointless!

If the issue is a extreme loack of finances problem, *and* it can be rebuilt with the old parts after cleaning.. then that's a bandaid possibility.
 
I would go ahead and buy the correct kit for him and put it in but I'm in a situation right now where I need the money from him first to get it b/c I can't afford it out of pocket. The whole reason I'm working on it to begin with to make some cash.

Bad part is he is always busy and he doesn't live close by his farm is just down here. Hopefully I'll find out something soon.
 
(quoted from post at 00:19:31 10/24/12) no need to go to such elaborate measures on the coil.. just check spark at moment of death.. if it has spark.. or stays running on start fluid it is FUEL!

I've seen an engine with no spark run on starting fluid before. but it was a diesel :lol:

I'm not trying to suggest elaborate or expensive things to try.. not real convinced it's a coil problem either. Just putting ideas out there that can be tested to narrow down the problem. Spraying ether into the intake vs. compressed air onto the coil seem pretty similar in terms of complexity, thought the latter is probably kinder to the engine.

The fact that it starts fine but shuts off after five minutes seems like an interesting clue. Good luck with the tractor, and by all means keep us posted on whatever you learn while getting it back into running condition!

Greg
 
could be something simple like the gas cap not venting, remove the cap and run it a while to see if it quits again while cap is off.
 
Carb has been soaking 4 days. Went over it again with carb cleaner spray and compressed air. One piston was seized. No scoring that I could tell just build up around it. Both pistons moved freely after cleaning. Found some kits at work that had parts left over and grabbed a gasket. Put it all back together and is running great so far.

Sounds great when I load it with the brakes and ran good going down the road and pulling up steep hills.

He needs a new sediment bowl though. The center of his is ripped out so its non-functional.
 

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