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Can't Turn 134 Over By Hand

T

tigercreek

Member
Long story short, I had the head of my 134 fill with rain water and cause all kinds of problems.
I had lost compression in a couple of the cylinders prior to this so after pulling the head for a rebuild I decided to replace the rings.
Old rings were all seized and pistons needed lots of cleaning.
Got everything cleaned up, new rings (standard) installed, assembly lubed and reinstalled the pistons.
With the head removed I could turn it over by hand before the piston removal but since the reinstall I cannot turn it over by hand.
Reinstalled in the same order they were removed from.
Pistons slid into cylinders without much effort.
Used same rod bearings.
One note - I did have problems getting the #4 cylinder rod cap to ease onto the crank - all others went on without any effort. I removed The #4 cap and tried to turn it over - still without any success.
Any ideas?

Another note - I did have assembly lube on the rod bearings and oil on the crankshaft. Potential problem?
 
No plastigauge - only new pars in the cylinder were the rings.
Could turn it by bar prior and during removal - not since the reinstall.
Assembly lube on pistons, cylinder walls and bearings.
 
Make sure you are not getting rod cap bolt contact with the oil pump. I installed all new rod bolts, along with a new oil pump, and this happened. Had to remove this rod cap bolt and remove about 1/16" to 1/8" of corner of bolt to get clearance. Very close fit in this location.
Daniel Robertson
393997138.jpg
 
tiger,

I don't know anything about your tractor engine, but I'll tell you about a mistake I made when I was a teenager trying to overhaul a six cylinder Chevrolet engine.

I replaced the rings on the pistons and the rod and main bearings on the crankshaft. When I reinstalled the pistons, I put them back into the same cylinders that they came out of, but I put some of them in backwards. There was a notch on the piston that was supposed to line up with the front of the engine - I had two of them backwards.

After I torqued the rod caps, I couldn't turn the engine over. After MUCH consternation, I realized what I had done wrong, turned those pistons around, and put the engine back together.

Just a thought.

Tom in TN
 
Pistons are in correctly - notch to the front, "F" on the rod to the front.
I am hoping that the assembly lube on the bearings could be an issue.
This was supposed to be a quick fix to see if the motor could be saved.
 
I'm pulling all caps when I get home and probably pushing the pistons back out. I am leaning in the direction that I somehow got a cap swapped - the reason for the tight #4 cap.
 
Check the rod bearings on the crank, it's possible they are not
seated , or orientated correctly,I.e. anti-spin tabs not fully in
the groove. All it takes is a couple thousandths .
 
Did you clean the carbon out of the ring grooves in the pistons? 40 years ago in high school a friend put new rings on the pistons in the 289 in his Mustang after he put the pistons back in the block the crankshaft wouldn"t turn. After I helped him take it back apart I found out that he hadn"t cleaned the ring grooves and the carbon wasn"t allowing the rings to sit in the bottoms of the grooves.
 
Yep.
I've decided to open her up and pull everything back out to double check things. Right now I have convinced myself that I somehow swapped a cap.
 
Pulled caps one at a time until I found the problem cylinder. #2 was the culprit - looks like a speck of something got on the bearing. Going to pull all pistons back out, replace the bearings and go from there.
Life's tough b ut it's tougher if you're stupid :roll:
 
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