ford 3000 clutch release lever

The clutch release lever broke broke half way between the shaft and where the adjustment clevis attaches. Any ideas on how to repair it without breaking the tractor into? It looks like the lever and the shaft are one piece.
 
Are you talking about the part in the photo?
I should think even a mildly competent welder welder could weld it back together without removing it from the tractor.

100_09811.jpg
 
This what we're trying to do. However the lever looks a little different than the one in the picture and its made of castiron, not malable steel.
 
(quoted from post at 21:24:56 10/19/12) This what we're trying to do. However the lever looks a little different than the one in the picture and its made of castiron, not malable steel.

Fabricate a new bell crank out of mild steel, separate the cast from the shaft and weld the new bell crank to the shaft.
 
I know cast iron when I see it. I've been welding for 60+ yrs and my brother even well before that.
I've welded everything from armor plating to stainless in my military career. I've welded many a cast iron bell crank on APC's (armored Personal carriers) and I used a nickel alloy rod. Cast iron rods didn't work to well. I've done a lot brazing too, but its not as strong as it should be.
 
Yes, I know the shaft is steel, but the arm attached to it is cast iron. This arm also has a set screw to adjust the arm travel.
 
kermit
Can you post a picture of the break? If it is a straight forward break, I would not replace anything, I would just weld it up, brazing would be my last choice.
BTW Do you have any of the new cast iron rods?
You just weld it up, no preheating!
Brian
 
Since yours has the setscrew, you have the double clutch for live PTO. The picutre Ultradog posted is of a 6-speed, non-live PTO model.
 
Mark, you are correct the first photo I posted is a 6 sp non live pto.
I'm curious...
Did you remember my junk or were you able to tell from the pic? If so tell why please.
The photo below is a 3600 with lpto. You can see the arm/bell crank is different. Both however are welded onto the shaft.
Kermit, can you post a photo of it?
If the arm was welded onto the shaft then it surely can be rewelded if broken.
Check Break offered good advice too below. Make one.

100_09841.jpg
 
I wished I could send you a pic. of it. This is a 1965 3000, 8 sp trans with LPTO. On your pic. you see the protrusion in front of the clutch lever that serves as a stop. The lever has an adjustment screw that is adjustable screw so you can adjust the clutch pedal travel at the up end. If you have access to a Ford or I.T. manual you can see the clutch arm with the stop screw.
We welded it this evening with a cast iron rod and also added a re-enforcement to. Hope it holds. Thank
 
I saw the tractor dolly, so I figured it was a close-up of the 2000 you're working on. (should try to talk my uncle into buying it... good trade up from his 8N)
One of the 3000's I had used the arm with the setscrew, can't remember about the other one. The arm on my 4600's clutch (independant PTO)is similar, but not identical to these... and is cast steel.
clutchshaft.jpg
 
"Yes, I know the shaft is steel, but the arm attached to it is cast iron."

There's only one version of that clutch shaft with the setscrew stop adjustment. I had one of those welded a couple months back and the professional, trained welder that did the work told me that the arm was cast steel, and it welded easily and well for him. His work looked very, very nice. Based on that input, and that of others here, I'll tell you that the arm is cast steel.
 

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