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Ford 960

R

Rob Mo.

Member
I bought a 960 Ford gasser that had been sitting in a barn for a
number of years. I put a new fuel tank on it, fuel shut off (the
screw in type), had the carburator rebuilt & cleaned
thoroughly. Now I got her running like a top. I am running into
some bugs with her, like the other day I was taking with her &
she just died. It was an electrical issue that I diagnosed to be a
bad terminal block, but this isn't a typical block that I am
familiar with. So, I just bypassed it with a wire with alligator
clips & went on. It ran fine & I was able to turn the carburator.
The next day, I mad one round in the field & the fuel line
worked its way loose from the shut off. When I put the shut off
on, I noticed that the threads weren't deep at all, I knew that
this would screw up on me. Word of warning to anybody who
might read this. Do not buy a fuel shut off from Sparex.
 
pretty common info to us that fuel shutoffs are of dubious quality these days. many of us rebuild our old ones.. some even gut the base and use it simply as a connection point to the tank to keep the oring arangement.. then solder off the valve and line to union to a brass valve.. etc..
 
Soundguy
How difficult is it the dismantle a shut off that had been sitting for 8 years with a half a tank of gas above it? Then getting the new o-rings to seal?

Another problem I had was while running the tractor it died like the key had been turned off. I traced it back to the ammeter with a test light. I have power on the terminal block side but nothing on the other side that goes to the key. Really think that the ammeter is my culprit.
 

When they die like the key was shut off that is sometimes what it is. I had one that was that way for a few years before I finally put a new key switch in it. When it happens try wiggling the key real quick.
 
I'm ruling the key switch out not because it is new but that the test light shows no current going to it. I have not ever seen an ammeter cause this problem before.
 
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