ford 3000 temp gauge

I've been baling hay with my 1973 ford 3000 gas tractor and noticed that temp gauge is running just in the red after 20 mins or so it doesn't get any higher than half way in the red. I've baled 2 fields about 1800 bales running like that. It has a electic sending unit I don't think tractor is runnig hot. If I stop and let it idle heat gauge goes down to about half way. I've cleaned raditor,i'm wondering if thermostat could be sticking?or water pump could be bad,tractor is running great and doesn't seem to be really running hot. The raditor is in great shape, is there something that I'm missing or should I put a mechical gauge on it?If so where do I put it on the motor? or what could I be missing? And what is the operating temp and could I put a 160 degree thermostat in it?Any thoughts or advice?
Thanks Joe C

(quoted from post at 18:24:45 09/30/12) I've been baling hay with my 1973 ford 3000 gas tractor and noticed that temp gauge is running just in the red after 20 mins or so it doesn't get any higher than half way in the red. I've baled 2 fields about 1800 bales running like that. It has a electic sending unit I don't think tractor is runnig hot. If I stop and let it idle heat gauge goes down to about half way. I've cleaned raditor,i'm wondering if thermostat could be sticking?or water pump could be bad,tractor is running great and doesn't seem to be really running hot. The raditor is in great shape, is there something that I'm missing or should I put a mechical gauge on it?If so where do I put it on the motor? or what could I be missing? And what is the operating temp and could I put a 160 degree thermostat in it?Any thoughts or advice?
Thanks Joe C

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lenty of options out there. Leave it alone if not having trouble & call the new needle position your "new normal". Run it with cap lose & see if it is boiling. Loosen cap after running...BUT, & repeat as many times as necessary, do this with gloves & very, very slowly & carefully & insert wife's cooking thermometer for a check. Safer, but not as accurate, look at radiator near top tank with an infrared thermometer. Try a new sender & see if it changes anything. No doubt there are more. None are perfect solutions, as removing pressure changes things, such as boiling point. Sure don't want to hurt yourself..ain't worth it.

Joe,
A couple of thoughts;
You say you've cleaned the radiator but did you shine a light into the rad from the fan side and look closely (from the front) at all the fins and tubes?
You might also stick a meat thermometer down into the coolant in the top of the rad and check the temp that way. Would give you a better idea if it actually hot or the gauge is malfunctioning. An ounce of investigation can be worth a pound of guessing and two pounds of wrenching.
Also, do a search here for "voltage stabilizer"
There have been some good threads here in the past where Rod, Bern, SoTexas Bill and others have discussed the electrical values of the voltage stabilizer that you could check with a VOM.
It could also be something like cleaning the little spade connector on the temp sender on the front of the head. A dirty connection there could give false readings somewhere else.
I haven't been into the the electrics in the back of the tach so much like the fellows above have though I really ought to learn. One of my best friends is an electronics guru - fixes photographer's strobe boxes from all over North America in his basement - and I just ply him with beer and good conversation while he does it for me. He's one of the last vacuum tube guys around. Giant ones for heat treating. They fly him around some times to fix them.

I've had this tractor about 3 years and the heat gauge and fuel gauge didn't work last fall i put a new fuel gauge and temp sending unit and voltage stabalizer on I've noticed that the fuel gauge reads a little high but never noticed or payed much attenion to the heat gauge. The fins on the radiator are clear. What should the motor temp run?
Thanks for all your info and thoughts I just don't want to burn up my motor. Last night I cut alittle over 45 acres with my 489 hay conditionor and the heat gauge run at the edge on red and on the long side its was up hill and on the up side the gauge slightly moved up the the middle and made the turn and down hill side went back to the edge of red.Cut like that for almost 3 hours and tractor seemed OK
Thanks again Joe C

My Ag teacher in HS said a tractor should run at rated speed and HP all day, every day and not have a problem. Baler on a 3000 is probably at the top of it's effective range though I'm pleased to see so many bales behind yours as 3000 is my fav.
Don't forget your nose.
Not often a tractor can get away from me on the smell test.
Whiff of steam or that sweet antifreeze smell gets my attention in a hurry.

(quoted from post at 15:24:45 09/30/12) I've been baling hay with my 1973 ford 3000 gas tractor and noticed that temp gauge is running just in the red after 20 mins or so it doesn't get any higher than half way in the red. I've baled 2 fields about 1800 bales running like that. It has a electic sending unit I don't think tractor is runnig hot. If I stop and let it idle heat gauge goes down to about half way. I've cleaned raditor,i'm wondering if thermostat could be sticking?or water pump could be bad,tractor is running great and doesn't seem to be really running hot. The raditor is in great shape, is there something that I'm missing or should I put a mechical gauge on it?If so where do I put it on the motor? or what could I be missing? And what is the operating temp and could I put a 160 degree thermostat in it?Any thoughts or advice?
Thanks Joe C

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I can't help except to say that my '66 3000 diesel is having a similar problem. I've put in a new water pump, thermostat and flushed the radiator. It goes into the red sometimes, but it just doesn't seem to be running hot. I can take the cap right off the radiator without gloves. And I did stick a meat thermometer in the coolant while it was in the red, and it was normal temp and even below. Besides that, the engine just doesn't seem hot. I'm convinced it's the sensor. the connections or the gauge itself.

If your fuel gauge reads high, as well as your temp gauge, then it's your voltage stabilizer. End of story.

It's probably the voltage stabilizer... but to be sure I'd make a point of checking the block temperature near the head on the right side of the engine with an IR heat gun. That ~should~ give about the most accurate jacket temperature on those engines with a gun.
I wouldn't entirely rule out the possibility that it IS hot either.

Rod