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Topic: 861 / 601 Hood and Fenders
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| Tom Bond
08-01-2012 14:04:58
166.249.128.228
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Are the hoods and fenders the same on the 801 and 601 series tractors? Reason I ask is previous owner put a 601 tank on my 861. I've located an 801 to replace it but thought I read somewhere there might be a different hinge measurement or something to that effect. Just don't want to get the new tank installed and then realize I need to look for fenders and hood. Any idea how I could tell which I have if there are different ones? |
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| GT65
08-04-2012 03:50:11
173.85.178.243
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Re: 861 / 601 Hood and Fenders in reply to Tom Bond, 08-01-2012 14:04:58
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| Also,while you have your sheetmetal off look for stress cracks by each bolt hole. Find the end of crack and drill a small hole there to keep it from spreading then weld up your crack. GT65 |
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| Tom Bond
08-01-2012 16:58:02
98.212.12.115
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Re: 861 / 601 Hood and Fenders in reply to Zack(NC), 08-01-2012 14:04:58
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| Thank You!
My hinges are 34.5" apart as well. Pulled one bolt out of the cumberbun and have the square hole in the dogleg. Looks like I'm good to go. Now I have to figure out the way to get all the sheet metal off to change the tank. |
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| Bill Radford
08-01-2012 18:24:33
24.211.160.181
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Re: 861 / 601 Hood and Fenders in reply to Tom Bond, 08-01-2012 16:58:02
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| Taking the hood off is fairly easy..but a 2 man job. Place a jack with a 2x6 across the bottom of the grill area to support the weight. Remove the cummerbund and then the grille. The hood and doglegs are held by bolts at the bottom of the doglegs.When you take them out, you will want the support that the jack provides to keep everything from slipping down onto the tank. Now comes the somewhat tricky part.First get the battery out of the way. That will allow you to reach up under the instrument panel and remove the danger of a tool falling onto a terminal (don't ask). Reach under the panel and you will detect two bolts on each side that hold the side panels of the hood to the instrument panel assembly. Use a 1/4 inch drive socket and ratchet to get these out. Then look at the panel in front of the gearshift. You will see some Phillips-head screws. They may be painted or plain steel.Do not remove the two at the very top that attach the instrument panel to the vertical section in front of the shifter (the instrument stand). DO remove the two at each side that fasten the hood side panels to the instrument stand. Two more bolts are to be found under the overhang between the hood side panels and the instrument stand. Remove them and any wires etc. clipped to the hood. If you are lucky, the headlights will have a connector somewhere between the light switch and lights that you can disconnect. If not, cut the light wire and be prepared to solder it together after you put the hood back on. Now with your helper, pull the sides of the hood slightly outward to clear the instrument stand and lift the hood assembly clear. Walk it forward and set it on a suitable stand (we use two sawhorses) Watch out and make sure that the hood door does not get bent or out of alignment. While you have the beast apart, check your upper radiator hose and replace if there is any doubt as to the condition. It is also a very good time to adjust your valves and replace the valve cover gasket if it leaks. When I replaced my tank, I also cleaned up the wiring a bit. There is plenty of info on this site and in the shop or IT manuals about the valve adjustment etc. Have at it Bill |
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| awhtx
08-01-2012 18:04:06
72.26.142.171
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Re: 861 / 601 Hood and Fenders in reply to Tom Bond, 08-01-2012 16:58:02
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| Remove the 4 thumbscrews that hold the eggcrate grille and the screen in place. The 2 lower thumbscrews also pass through 2 tabs on the cummerbund. Remove the 2 bolts that attach the cummerbund to the doglegs. There were originally caged nuts trapped in those 2 square holes but most have been lost and there is just a bolt with a nut in those holes. Remove the 2 bolts at the bottom of the doglegs that attach through the radiator mounting bracket. There are square holes in the radiator bracket that originally contained caged nuts but once again most have been lost. Open the hood and remove the 2 screws that attach the forward corners of the instrument panel to the hood panels. Look inside under the proofmeter and to each side of it. There are 2 horizontal 5/16" bolts on each side that attach the instrument panel to each hood side panel. Now look up underneath each aft corner of the hood side panel and there are 2 vertical 5/16" bolts that attach each hood side panel to the lower dash panel. Then look on each side of the dash panel under the steering wheel and there are 2 horizontal 5/16" Phillips head machine screws that attach each hood side panel to the lower dash panel. When you have removed all of those screws and bolts the entire hood assembly will lift off. It helps if you have an assistant when lifting the assembly off. |
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| John in la
08-01-2012 19:50:10
67.35.236.49
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Re: 861 / 601 Hood and Fenders in reply to awhtx, 08-01-2012 18:04:06
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| That you can name the location of every bolt I would say you might have done this more than once. |
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| awhtx
08-01-2012 20:05:01
72.26.142.171
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Re: 861 / 601 Hood and Fenders in reply to John in la, 08-01-2012 19:50:10
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| Yes, 3 or 2 times. I forgot to tell him that unless the hood has recently been removed 99% of those bolts will be rusted solidly to the nuts. |
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| awhtx
08-01-2012 14:56:14
72.26.142.171
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Re: 861 / 601 Hood and Fenders in reply to Tom Bond, 08-01-2012 14:04:58
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| The hood hinges on my 851 & 971 are 34.5" apart. The hinges on my 640 are only 29.25" apart. The doglegs for an 801 hood have a 1/2" (or close) square hole down near the bottom where the lower grille panel (sometimes called the "cummerbund") attaches. The 801 doglegs are the ONLY doglegs with these square holes punched in them. |
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