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Bush Hog wheel

J

J Strickland

Member
Ok guys I am currently tearing down and repainting, greaseing and whatever else needs to be done to the hog. My question today is does this rear wheel on the Hog come apart? And if so does the rubber flaps or whatever they are all fall apart? Just wanting to know before I do something stupid. All the bolts were rusted pretty good however I got them all taken off.

Thanks,

James
a65003.jpg
 
The axle shaft of the wheel might use some grease, and the tube at the top, over the wheel that allows it to pivot, should too. While I can't see one in the picture, there may be a grease fitting on the pivot tube, or you may have to take it apart to lube it. The axle and pivot tube should use a thick grease, like axle grease or lithium grease.

The gear box that transfers the PTO shaft rotation to the blade rotation should get gear oil, like 80W or 90W.

The wheel itself should be left alone. The "tire" is, as you noted, just a series of rubber flaps. They will eventually (after 30 years or so) start to dry rot and crumble, but even after that starts, it should last at least another 10 years before you need to replace it.
 
I was going to mention this the other day but forgot.
That machine may be a brush mower or a rotary mower or a shredder but it is not a Bush Hog.
Bush Hog® is a brand name - a registered trade mark.
 
(quoted from post at 14:37:16 03/14/12) The axle shaft of the wheel might use some grease, and the tube at the top, over the wheel that allows it to pivot, should too. While I can't see one in the picture, there may be a grease fitting on the pivot tube, or you may have to take it apart to lube it. The axle and pivot tube should use a thick grease, like axle grease or lithium grease.

The gear box that transfers the PTO shaft rotation to the blade rotation should get gear oil, like 80W or 90W.

The wheel itself should be left alone. The "tire" is, as you noted, just a series of rubber flaps. They will eventually (after 30 years or so) start to dry rot and crumble, but even after that starts, it should last at least another 10 years before you need to replace it.
Click to expand...

That might possibly be a Ford mower. In that event, the gear box may require being packed with grease rather than gear oil. Made that mistake
myself. The gear oil simply leaked out of the housing.
 
Does not matter what brand name it is.Here in the Southeast almost everyone calls that peice of equiptment a BUSHOG.I'm not saying that is the proper term by and means.It is just a Southern thing.
 
I have a similar brush hog, or whatever you want to call it. If I remember correctly, it is a Ford 939. You might want to look up that model or similar number models on the New Holland website, as I think they have diagrams and parts lists.

On the tail wheel, you should find a grease zerk to lubricate the bearings around the axle. My axle broke one time and I replaced it with a similar sized bolt. I peened the threads to keep the nut from working off the new bolt and it has worked fine for several years. The tail wheel should rotate very easily and the fork also should pivot easily.

I always check the lubricant in the gearbox before I use the machine, but it has always been full. If it had not been I would have added 90W gear lube. If you use the machine for a while, the gearbox gets much too hot to touch, so good lubrication is probably really important.

It looks like you already have an over running coupler in use, which is a great idea. It is flat scary for the tractor to continue moving forward after you have pushed the clutch pedal all the way down! The ORC should prevent that predicament.

Hope you like your brush hog as much as I like mine. My machine has better paint than yours does, but mine is definitely more beaten up than yours. Good luck!
 
NO. NO. NO.

Rotary cutter gearboxes use EP oil, usually 85W90 not grease.

If it leaks out the seals need replacement.

Dean
 
Great advice. The only constructive thing I can add is drain the gear box before you add any new oil. Condensation collects in the gear box and turns your lube into a slurry. That gear box looks just like what I have on a 6' mower of another brand. They all probably use the same gear boxes from that era. You should find NO drain and have to resort to an air vac or lifting the mower up in the air high enough to drain the oil out the breather hole. Kind of sucks but has to be done every 2-3 years.

From what I can see, you have a shear pin on the gear box input shaft. I do too. Make sure that bolt is a Grade 2. The bolt is a shear bolt and needs to shear so the gears don't grenade. There are marks on the head of the cap which will tell you what grade it is. The PO may have gotten tired of changing shear bolts and installed a Grade 5 or 8 thinking he was improving the design. Check that shear bolt before you start mowing!!!


Grease the swivel and wheel bearings with an EP grease. Depending upon how worn the swivel is, you can grease it when the tail wheel is on the ground and then lift the mower and give it a couple more pumps when the tail wheel is in the air. If the swivel is worn out, rebuild it before you destroy the wheel. I use a mechanical locking nut on my axle bolt rather than peen the threads. You will loose the nut off the axle bolt some day if you don't prevent it from backing off. Grease the u-joints in that drive line. They should have zerks in the center of the u-joint which are accessible through holes in the plastic guard. Check the blades and make sure there's still something attached to the flywheel. Don't worry about sharpening them. Hopefully they both look about the same so the flywheel is still balanced.

Hope this helps.
 
James
Tail wheel is just a pressed together thing. Just work on the outside.
We call 'em Bush Hog's up in Ohio too.
That looks exactly like a King Kutter brand. TSC used to sell them in the 90's. I think they still carry parts for them. Even the tail wheels if I remember correctly.
Good luck.
Keith
 
I would just sand blast the wheel and slap on fresh paint and call it good. If you are real ambitious, you could replace the bolts in it one at a time. (but I wouldn't)

I also agree that the gear box should be repaired if the oil leaks out. That's pretty common by the way from wrapping bar-wire up and tearing the seal. Then the gears are run dry and they fail, so its wise to keep an eye on the oil level.
 
Looks like a 45 hp gearbox, pretty standard on light duty shredders.

If the gearbox isn't leaking currently, go to Autozone and buy a suction pump (red barrel with black caps and tubing) and suck the old oil out of the box. Get some synthetic 75W-90 lube and you won't have to pay any attention to the lube again, unless you develop a leak from the bottom seal. AZ sells that too, Valvoline as I recall.

Only reason people used grease, and Lubriplate 105 (an engine overhaul first lube) is the best choice as it is semi liquid, is that it is thicker than oil and resisted leaking out of the worn lower seal.

While you are at it, get yourself a venting screw and ensure it is vertical, meaning you will need to add a 1/8 or 1/4" pipe (whichever you have) elbow /90 at the fill plug to install it correctly. One of the reasons the lower seal leaks is that on a lot of older shredders, they did not vent the gearbox as I suggested. As the oil gets hot is expands and builds up pressure and the lower seal (and the shaft seal) are the weakest links. Getting rid of the pressure can make a marginal seal (function) like new again.

The rubber is just squares of old tires and is held together with a wire running through it. Works much better than a pneumatic tire as it is immune to punctures.

The full plug is that little guy you see on the rear at the 5 o'clock position.

HTH,
Mark
 
They call a mower like that a Bush Hog in our area also, no mater who makes them. I notice on the other site here they call them a shreader. Call that around here and you will get a blank look most of the time.
 
(quoted from post at 20:45:27 03/14/12) NO. NO. NO.

Rotary cutter gearboxes use EP oil, usually 85W90 not grease.

If it leaks out the seals need replacement.

Dean
Click to expand...

Here is a quote from the Ford 909/910 rotary cutter manual:

"Only clean ESA-M1C57-A (multi-purpose lithium base) grease should be used in the gearbox. Never use oil or the wrong type of grease, or fill the gearbox more than specified. See your Ford Tractor-Equipment Dealer for the specified type of grease"
 
"It is just a Southern thing."
not so. here in the northeast we call em bush hogs too. kinda like calling facial tissues "kleenex".
 
(quoted from post at 15:10:20 03/14/12) I was going to mention this the other day but forgot.
That machine may be a brush mower or a rotary mower or a shredder but it is not a Bush Hog.
Bush Hog® is a brand name - a registered trade mark.
Click to expand...

Exactly!! This fact needs to be given attention way more often.
 
(quoted from post at 15:30:05 03/15/12) "It is just a Southern thing."
not so. here in the northeast we call em bush hogs too. kinda like calling facial tissues "kleenex".
Click to expand...
obody care except UD & I think is is on B-H payroll as a trademark protectionist! :roll:
 

You know you are right Keith, didn't notice at first glance but this is identical to the King Kutter I got at TSC about 10 yrs. ago. Bet that KK built these for Ford (?) or someone just painted over the yellow. The manual says to use the heavy gear oil in it, not grease, as someone already said.
 
(quoted from post at 07:58:10 03/15/12)
You know you are right Keith, didn't notice at first glance but this is identical to the King Kutter I got at TSC about 10 yrs. ago. Bet that KK built these for Ford (?) or someone just painted over the yellow. The manual says to use the heavy gear oil in it, not grease, as someone already said.
Click to expand...

No, the manual doesn't say that. Go back and read it again.
 
(quoted from post at 12:22:35 03/15/12)
(quoted from post at 07:58:10 03/15/12)
You know you are right Keith, didn't notice at first glance but this is identical to the King Kutter I got at TSC about 10 yrs. ago. Bet that KK built these for Ford (?) or someone just painted over the yellow. The manual says to use the heavy gear oil in it, not grease, as someone already said.
Click to expand...

No, the manual doesn't say that. Go back and read it again.
Click to expand...

flyingace,

You are referencing a Ford manual while others are refering to different manuals, likely King Kutter. This mower looks almost identical to the 6' King Kutter I got from Orschelns and it's literature calls for gear oil.

Chris
 
(quoted from post at 10:33:36 03/15/12)
(quoted from post at 12:22:35 03/15/12)
(quoted from post at 07:58:10 03/15/12)
You know you are right Keith, didn't notice at first glance but this is identical to the King Kutter I got at TSC about 10 yrs. ago. Bet that KK built these for Ford (?) or someone just painted over the yellow. The manual says to use the heavy gear oil in it, not grease, as someone already said.
Click to expand...

No, the manual doesn't say that. Go back and read it again.
Click to expand...

flyingace,

You are referencing a Ford manual while others are refering to different manuals, likely King Kutter. This mower looks almost identical to the 6' King Kutter I got from Orschelns and it's literature calls for gear oil.

Chris
Click to expand...

OK. So point out another reference to a manual in this discussion before this quote.

I could care less, but the OP may actually have a Ford cutter that may actually need grease, not gear oil. I'm just trying to let him know that is a possibility. He can decide for himself which type of gearbox it is and what
lubricant to use.
 
It's a "BUSH HOG"!
A "Cheerwine" or "Pepsi" is still a "COKE".
However; an "RC and Moonpie" is just that.
We blow our nose into a "nose rag" or "KLEENEX" (any brand) down here.
And, it's still "toilet paper" not "toilet tissue" down here - no matter if it's the Sears catalog or that sissy stuff that goes into the indoor outhouse thingy.
A refrigerator is a "FRIGIDAIRE" no matter who makes it.
And not too many years ago, before they all died off, a refrigerator was still an "icebox" to some of the older folks.

Ya can't "learn" an ole dog new tricks. Ya may be able to teach him a thing or two, but ya can't learn (or larn) him new tricks.

Now all of y'all know. Tehehe.
 
OK. So point out another reference to a manual in this discussion before this quote.

I could care less, but the OP may actually have a Ford cutter that may actually need grease, not gear oil. I'm just trying to let him know that is a possibility. He can decide for himself which type of gearbox it is and what
lubricant to use.
Click to expand...


You know you are right Keith, didn't notice at first glance but this is identical to the [color=red:79375d5de7]King Kutter I got at TSC[/color:79375d5de7] about 10 yrs. ago. Bet that KK built these for Ford (?) or someone just painted over the yellow. The [color=red:79375d5de7]manual says to use the heavy gear oil[/color:79375d5de7] in it, not grease, as someone already said.
Click to expand...

After W_B indicates he is referring to a [color=red:79375d5de7]King Kutter[/color:79375d5de7] manual, you tell him to "read it again" because your [color=blue:79375d5de7]Ford[/color:79375d5de7] manual is different. I appreciate your trying to help the OP and sharing your experience, that is what this site is about.

chris
 
OK. So point out another reference to a manual in this discussion before this quote.

I could care less, but the OP may actually have a Ford cutter that may actually need grease, not gear oil. I'm just trying to let him know that is a possibility. He can decide for himself which type of gearbox it is and what lubricant to use.
Click to expand...

Not sure how this "discussion" shifted to gear oil as the posters original question was about the tail wheel.

At any rate, I'm satisfied that he has a King Kutter Model L-60-40-P and the owners manual calls for: Multi-Purpose Gear Oil (I.E. S.A.E. 80w/90 or S.A.E.
85w/140 Multi-purpose gear oil.)

KingKutterL-60-40-P.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 13:16:53 03/15/12)
OK. So point out another reference to a manual in this discussion before this quote.

I could care less, but the OP may actually have a Ford cutter that may actually need grease, not gear oil. I'm just trying to let him know that is a possibility. He can decide for himself which type of gearbox it is and what
lubricant to use.
Click to expand...


You know you are right Keith, didn't notice at first glance but this is identical to the [color=red:f8d30ca005]King Kutter I got at TSC[/color:f8d30ca005] about 10 yrs. ago. Bet that KK built these for Ford (?) or someone just painted over the yellow. The [color=red:f8d30ca005]manual says to use the heavy gear oil[/color:f8d30ca005] in it, not grease, as someone already said.
Click to expand...

After W_B indicates he is referring to a [color=red:f8d30ca005]King Kutter[/color:f8d30ca005] manual, you tell him to "read it again" because your [color=blue:f8d30ca005]Ford[/color:f8d30ca005] manual is different. I appreciate your trying to help the OP and sharing your experience, that is what this site is about.

chris
Click to expand...

Please see part about 'as someone already said' with regard to the manual. There are no other references to manuals before WBs post , so I assumed he meant the Ford manual and misread the quote.

But it is a sentence that can be interpreted many ways. Only W_B knows...
 
Ok guys,

Let me say that I am sorry for the confusion on the name of the implement. I should have stated in the first post that it had King Kutter on one side of the ____________ , or whatever you know it as.

Just got the wheel primered and changed all of the bolts at one time. Nope it did not fall apart. It also has all of the grease zerks in the proper locations. And in the gearbox there were roughly 12 ounces of Gear Oil in it. Will pick up new bottle of gear oil next trip into town.

Please put a picture of the breather screw/vent on the forum.

Thanks,

James
 
Dang I got it correct!!!

Those wheels take a lot of abuse. The Yoke not so much. It will twist if you use it to push trees with. I have a habit of using the back of the hog to push stuff that falls out into the field.

My "hog" now is a 6 foot Woods cadet. The back end is a lot heavier. It really pushes trees well!
Keith
 
Compare a 5' Bush Hog® brand rotary mower to a 5' King Kutter rotary mower
BH Weight 825 lbs
KK Weight 485 lbs
BH gearbox suitable for 80 HP
KK gearbox suitable for 40 hp
BH top deck thickness = 7 ga
KK top deck thickness = 12 ga
BH drive shaft protection = adjustable clutch with 2 dry clutch plates.
KK driveshaft protection = a 1/2" shear bolt.
BH has safety chains front and rear standard.
KK has no safety chains front or rear.
BH cutting capacity = 3" diameter
KK cutting capacity = 1 1/2" diameter
Call your King Kutter anything you wish.
But we all know it is NOT a Bush Hog®



BushHog.jpg
 
Compare a 5' Bush Hog® brand rotary mower to a 5' King Kutter rotary mower
BH Weight 825 lbs
KK Weight 485 lbs
BH gearbox suitable for 80 HP
KK gearbox suitable for 40 hp
BH top deck thickness = 7 ga
KK top deck thickness = 12 ga
BH drive shaft protection = adjustable clutch with 2 dry clutch plates.
KK driveshaft protection = a 1/2" shear bolt.
BH has safety chains front and rear standard.
KK has no safety chains front or rear.
BH cutting capacity = 3" diameter
KK cutting capacity = 1 1/2" diameter
Click to expand...

UD, you compared everything but the price :D

There's no argument on the quality of the Bush Hog brand rotary cutter but they cost more than I paid for my tractor :(
 
(quoted from post at 18:02:40 03/15/12) Compare a 5' Bush Hog® brand rotary mower to a 5' King Kutter rotary mower
BH Weight 825 lbs
KK Weight 485 lbs
BH gearbox suitable for 80 HP
KK gearbox suitable for 40 hp
BH top deck thickness = 7 ga
KK top deck thickness = 12 ga
BH drive shaft protection = adjustable clutch with 2 dry clutch plates.
KK driveshaft protection = a 1/2" shear bolt.
BH has safety chains front and rear standard.
KK has no safety chains front or rear.
BH cutting capacity = 3" diameter
KK cutting capacity = 1 1/2" diameter
Call your King Kutter anything you wish.
But we all know it is NOT a Bush Hog®



<img src="http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/Ultradog/BushHog.jpg">
Click to expand...

Well each manufaturer has a light duty, medium duty and heavy duty model...It appears you have compared a light duty KK to a medium duty Bush Hog. FWIW, I just bought a Bush Hog 3008-R2 last fall to replace my JD MX8. I was really disappointed in the quality of the fit and finish compared to the JD. Paint was flaking off and welds were pretty crude for the "Inventer of the bush hog". I hooked it up and it made such a clatter I called the dealer and had them take it back and assess the problem. Chain guard bolts were put in backwards and were hitting the blades! I wished I could have seen one before I ordered....I would have stayed with the Deere.
 
I don't have one. You ought to be able to go to a mom-pop auto parts store and have an experienced sales person find one for you, especially if they cater to local tractor or equipment restorers. I have a Kodiac Brand that has one on it. Ask them. I think they are in Arkansas.

Main thing is to install it vertical so it works correctly.

Mark
 
I worked for a company that had a problem with just what you are talking about. They made a part and we referred to it by the Name the company gave it, not it's functionality. They contended that they could loose their patent rights over that.

Soooooo I guess Kleenex will just have to suck it up, because a nose rag is a Kleenex no matter whose name is on the box.

Same with Bush Hog down here. All rotary cutters/shredders are Bush Hogs, but as one can tell from the two picts in this thread, the differences are obvious and the Bush Hog is Red. Ha.

Enjoyed your reply.

Mark
 
overheard at an equipment dealer...
Got any 5' bush hog bush hogs?
(as in Bush Hog branded cutter LOL)

my half brother grew up in Seffner, FL
When visiting him, someone would ask if
I wanted a cherry coke?
don't like coke, got any pepsi?
huh?
like a comedy routine

for years all skid steers were called Bobcats around here.
That seems to be fading now
 
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