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5610 oil pressure

woodbutcher

woodbutcher

Well-known Member
I"m still trying to find the reason why my oil pressure light comes on at 1800 rpm"s. I"m fairly sure the oil pressure is not dropping at that engine speed( ground speed doesn"t matter). I"ve replaced the sender, and I can"t find any wiring out of place and shorting. I"m considering installing a gauge. Is there one that will operate off the new sender?
Butch
 
Go to NAPA or somewhere and get a manual gauge NOW and check it.
The light on those tractors simply uses a basic pressure switch that is either open or closed. It's not a pressure sender as such...
Basically, if the light is staying on you either have a bare wire that is grounding out, a bad sender that is providing a ground path.... or you don't have enough pressure to open the switch contacts.
Rod
 
ditto what rod said.. check it asap.

some of those switches only open at 6psi... thus, you can test with a test lamp or, if you think the switch may be bad.. go with a mechanical gauge to see what you are realy making.

soundguy
 
probably the air restriction light is causing it to come on. there can be a diode between the oil pressure light and the air restriction light that will allow both to be tested when the key is turned on.

You can have the bulbs reversed or a clogged air filter, or a mud dabber nest in the intake pipes or just a bad vacum sensor on the air intake.

so consider this as well as the oil related items as its common on 5610s for the air restriction light to come on with a weak vacum sensor at 1800 to 2000rpm.
 
Ditto what everyone else said. I would add: Install your new gauge in an unused port under the oil filter. That way you can compare actual oil pressure with what the light does. The only negative to this idea is that it will be on the unfiltered side of the oil pump (naturally higher pressure), however unless your filter is really plugged, the difference won't be all that great.

Having said all of that, there COULD be another tapping on the LH side of the block where a turbo would be fed from on a 7610. If you find another plug exactly in line with the existing sensor, use that one.

Oil pressure issues on those tractors are RARE. I would suspect faulty wiring or a swapped bulb as the others have already said.
 
Bill, that reminds me that when I posted with this problem several months ago, somebody(maybe you) suggested the airflow might be restricted. So, I took the filter out and used my air hose to clear it. It had some buildup, but blowing it out didn"t change the trouble light at all. I will check for dirt dauber nests, though. Thanks.
Butch
 
Thanks for all replies. I bought this tractor about two years ago. I parked it in the shed for several months before I changed the oil and filter and replaced the instrument cluster because the OEM had had so much diesel spilled on it that the gauges were hard to see. I used a cluster that was made for a 4610 because it had the same part number as the one that was called for on a 5610. The only question in my mind when I looked up the number was that there were different part numbers called for on models that were made before my 1981 model was made. I don't recall the warning light coming on when it wasn't supposed to before I changed the gauge cluster. As Bern pointed out, oil pressure problems are rare with 5610's. I kinda doubt the oil pressure would drop in any engine when you advance the rpm's unless there is a problem that would get worse. This problem seems to stay at the 1800 rpm level and above. Below that, no problem.
Butch
 
One quick try... when the light comes on... and if it's not knocking like hell... open the hood, locate the wires for the MAP sensor on the cross tube around the rad and pull the wires off the sender. If that puts the light out then you found the problem.
At that point I'd probably change the inner and outer air filters, just because... then if it persists, change the sensor.
I still think it would be a good idea to stick an oil gauge on there for a quick test. Nothing more than pull the oil pressure switch and install the gauge for a check, then remove the gauge. Personally I would not remove the light in favor of a gauge long term. The light is more likely to be of use than a gauge you can't see.

Rod
 
Thanks, Rod. Since my last post I went to the tractor shed to check the air intake. When I removed the weatherhead and probed the tube that leads into the filter housing with a long screwdriver, I could feel something that did not belong there, rolling away from the screwdriver tip. So I took another long screwdriver and used the two like tongs to pull out the obstruction: a dirt-dauber(mud-dauber) nest a litle bigger than a ping-pong ball. Special thanks to South Texas Bill. He hit the nail on the head. I did remove and reinstall the inner filter to clean out the dust that fell into the filter housing. Stamped on the end of the inner filter is the date of February '82 and the wording "Do not Clean." How often does that part need to be replaced?
Butch
 
4 cylinder should have a second test port along the cam line to the rear of the oil filter; in line with the sending unit tucked in by the P/S pump. There would be no differential between this port and where the sender is now.
 
1200 hours or 'as required'
Yours is not the only one that hasn't had it's seal broken in 30 years...

Rod
 
(quoted from post at 15:41:16 02/20/12) Thanks, Rod. Since my last post I went to the tractor shed to check the air intake. When I removed the weatherhead and probed the tube that leads into the filter housing with a long screwdriver, I could feel something that did not belong there, rolling away from the screwdriver tip. So I took another long screwdriver and used the two like tongs to pull out the obstruction: a dirt-dauber(mud-dauber) nest a litle bigger than a ping-pong ball. Special thanks to South Texas Bill. He hit the nail on the head. I did remove and reinstall the inner filter to clean out the dust that fell into the filter housing. Stamped on the end of the inner filter is the date of February '82 and the wording "Do not Clean." How often does that part need to be replaced?
Butch
Click to expand...

since its an inner filter, most dont ever get changed out. hold it up to sunlight. if you can see a sparkle or two and its clean looking, its still good. if its really dirty, go ahead and change it.

the vacum sensor can be bad or weak on these models even when the pipes are clean and you can get a dim light at high rpms... hoping the clean pipe will do it, but I still have one that the light still comes on just barely at high rpms... good luck.. bill
 
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