Ford Tractor Alternator wiring Diagram

Roger Martin · Feb 15, 2012

I can identify my tractor wires but the Alternator is unmarked.
I need a diagram for the E7NN10B376BB

It only shows a W next to one terminal and for me that relates to nothing.

Ultradog MN · Feb 15, 2012

Year and model please.
All the help you need is here but we need the basics.

Roger Martin · Feb 15, 2012

New Alternator E7NN10B376BB

Replacement for Ford 3230, 3430, 3930, 4130, 4639, 4830, 5030, 5610s, 7010s, 7610s, 7810s, and 8010 Tractors

A marked picture would be nice but I just need to know where to put the field, Regulator, and output wires. Ground is obvious.

Roger Martin · Feb 15, 2012

Good luck viewing but here is a product pic.

JMOR · Feb 15, 2012

(quoted from post at 22:07:41 02/15/12) New Alternator E7NN10B376BB

Replacement for Ford 3230, 3430, 3930, 4130, 4639, 4830, 5030, 5610s, 7010s, 7610s, 7810s, and 8010 Tractors

A marked picture would be nice but I just need to know where to put the field, Regulator, and output wires. Ground is obvious.

Bad picture, but looks like it my have places for one or two connectors....does your harness have connectors?

Mark K · Feb 15, 2012

That picture shows an internally regulated alternator, there would be no field wire, there should only be B+ battery wire, an ignition wire, and maybe an idiot light wire.

Does your tractor have an external regulator??

Mark K · Feb 15, 2012

Here is a better picture, w would be your idiot light, B+ is your battery wire, and that is all you should need to set that baby off. How many wires do you have??

Mark K · Feb 15, 2012

The orange wire push on connector will be a b+ battery sense, but it goes through a thermistor on the tractor somewhere, not sure exactly why they are doing it that way, it must boost or backoff charging rate depending on temperature. MK

Mark K · Feb 15, 2012

The 3 spade push in terminal in the center is for European applications only and would have a large black plug, they are basically the same as the other terminals I mentioned, but they can be ignored on US applications, some manufacturers put a cover over these.
They are covering a lot of applications with one alternator, no wonder we call Lucas "the prince of darkness" :~)
MK

Roger Martin · Feb 15, 2012

The Tractor is a Ford 545C
This is not the Alternator that was on it
but it is supposed to replace the D5NN10300D
that has 4 wires including:
Field, Ground, Regulator, and Output

The Output connects to the same starter terminal as the Battery Positive cable

Mark K · Feb 15, 2012

It could go in place of it, but it would need to be wired differently. Your D5NN10300D is an externally regulated alternator, the one you are replacing it with is an internally regulated unit, so if you are going to use it, you will have to do some wiring.

You could use your B+ wire from the starter as is, but your old "field wire" and "regulator wire" from the regulator will not and will need to be covered, then you will need an idiot light wire for the W terminal, and as for the "sense" wire, I'm not sure if it will run right without it. You are going to end up with a mess unless you do a complete conversion and get rid of the old regulator.

Are you sure you want to go this way? I think I would stick with the factory setup, if not for me for the next guy! :~)

Here is your stock alternator from the second number you gave me, externally regulated.

Bern · Feb 15, 2012

"W" is usually warning lamp.

Roger Martin · Feb 16, 2012

I can see that mounting it and fabricating a new belt tension arm was the easy part.

I will look for the external regulator tomorrow.
If not simple, I will have to send the new alternator back for exchange.

Mark K · Feb 16, 2012

Was there a reason to switch to the current setup?

Roger Martin · Feb 16, 2012

Reason for getting wrong Alternator:
Yes, misinformation when I was doing a search for tractor parts.
The actual replacement is $5 less at http://www.link_disallowed
But their site does not even list Alternators for the 545C.
Both the E7NN10B376BB which I got and the
D5NN10300D that I had are listed for other Tractors

Roger Martin · Feb 16, 2012

Thanks Mark
You have been most helpful

What if I just hook up the B+ to my Battery post on the starter and W to my gauge or idiot light?
I will also slip the ground wire on the bolt next to the B+

I am also thinking of adding an Automobile AMP + Volts gauge panel to the Tractor.

Mark K · Feb 16, 2012

You could try that, but an alternator needs to "sample" voltage somewhere to decide on how hard or soft to charge, it may work and shouldn"t hurt anything to try, but that particular alt uses a thermistor to send that info to the regulator. If I were going to use a different alternator, it would not be that one, you can actually buy a piggyback regulator that would go on the back of the original

Not sure what you mean my "gauge", but don"t hook 12v+ straight to the W terminal, it would need the light bulb in between. It would need to be switched (ign) through a bulb and then hooked to the W terminal. Good luck and don"t hesitate to email me if you need to. MK

mjp · Feb 16, 2012

ultradog could you send me your e mail address my wife erased your previous e mails. thanks mike

Ultradog MN · Feb 16, 2012

[email protected]

Roger Martin · Feb 16, 2012

What is the little black box below the W terminal that plugs in above the B+ terminal?
My new alternator does not have that.

If I RMA this alternator they want 15% + shipping.
And they may notice that I drilled out the bottom mounting hole to fit that bracket bolt.

The gauges would be a volt and Amp meter that would probably be hooked elsewhere anyway.

Mark K · Feb 16, 2012

The little black box is a noise filter (capacitor) for radios or other electronics, it would work fine with/without it.

Yeah, they probably would not want it back after modification, it's not a problem to use it, it just needs to be done cleanly to give you good service.

Roger Martin · Feb 17, 2012

My 3 banger diesel tractor is so loud that I probably could not hear a radio even with a headset.

Could you be a little more descriptive of what 3rd wire I might need to connect to get the get the E7NN10B376BB to work properly?

I can bolt on the ground and battery/starter wires without modifying the terminals.
Should I connect the field and regulator wires to each other (male & female) or just tape them?

I will test the output today without connecting any wires and then connect only the ground and output.
Then let it charge the battery and see how high it goes.
The enclosed test chart showed 14 volts (I like 13.2 to 13.8)so maybe no problem.

Mark K · Feb 17, 2012

Like I said, you will need the basic two, your power wire and the ground, then to set it off, you will need ign (b+) from your key switch through the warning (idiot) light to the W terminal, and that should turn it on and charge, it won"t with just power and ground.

You may or may not need a signal to the orange wire, but try the 3 primary wires first. MK

Roger Martin · Feb 17, 2012

OK I will try to connect a wire from the dash idiot light to the W terminal.

Roger Martin · Feb 17, 2012

I just checked the Tractor Parts link below and now realize why I ordered the wrong alternator.
It is the same one miss-listed here.

Alternator assembly, 70 amp. For 250C, 260C, 3230, 3430, 345C, 345D, 3930, 4130, 445C, 445D, 455C, 455D, 4639, 4830, 5030, 545C, 545D, 555C, 555D, 5610S, 575D, 655C, 655D, 6610S, 675D, 7010S, 7610S, 7810S, 8010,

(Part No: E7NN10B376BB)

Roger Martin · Feb 17, 2012

The Alternator Idiot light has two wires.
Red & tan
which one should I use?

I tried testing the Alternator without hooking wires up and the DC voltage readings were jumping up and down. AC reading was not applicable.
I tried hooking the Battery and ground wires and the battery was not indicating any charge, just a solid 12.8 volts

Roger Martin · Feb 17, 2012

The Alternator Idiot light has two wires.
Red & tan
which one should I use?

I tried testing the Alternator without hooking wires up and the DC voltage readings were jumping up and down. AC reading was not applicable.
I tried hooking the Battery and ground wires and the battery was not indicating any charge, just a solid 12.8 volts

Roger Martin · Feb 17, 2012

I tried connection both Idiot light wires one at a time to the W terminal and then the Sensor.
No avail!

I will package it for return today.
I will also see if I can pull and check the brushes on the old unit.
And maybe it is my regulator that is bad?

Mark K · Feb 17, 2012

It is hard to diagnose stuff I can"t put my hands on, but if you ground the body of your old alternator and just flash 12v+ to the field terminal, you should get a small "warm" flash, that would tell you the field coil is ok and that it most likely will charge.

If you take the brush pack off, it can be difficult to put them back in without cracking open the alternator case, the test I mentioned would be easier. MK

You could have a bad regulator, happens all the time, or you may lack one of the signals that turns it on, hard to say. MK

Roger Martin · Feb 17, 2012

This particular D5NN10300D one brush assemble was easy to remove and replace. All the compression is in the unit unlike others I've seen.
Looked less than half down on wear.
My dash idiot lights were not coming on and I found and replaced the 5AMP fuse to no avail.

the test above relates to a properly hooked up Alternator and a hot wire from battery post to field post?
It should spark but nothing else with motor & key off?

Roger Martin · Feb 17, 2012

I just noticed something disturbing.
My pdf 804 page manual show two brushes.
I only remember seeing one.
Now I have to remove the assembly again and check.

If it is making racket, I can't hear it over the diesel motor.

Mark K · Feb 17, 2012

You could do it that way, put your old alternator back on and hook it all up except the field wire, then take a small piece of wire touch it to Bat+ and flash the other end to the field terminal, and you should get the result I mentioned if it has the potential to charge, assuming there is power at the Bat+ terminal.

Let me know what happens. MK

Mark K · Feb 17, 2012

There has to be two brushes, one is ground and the other is field +, if one is missing or broken, that's a problem.

Ford Tractor Alternator wiring Diagram

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