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spark at points not to plugs

G

gxw4211

New User
hi guys, I have spark to my points but not to the plugs on my jubilee. I've never had this happen before.

I noticed the dust cap could have some cracks and doesn't eactly seem like it all fits well.

I ordered new cap and dust cap as Im not sure what else to do any advise appreciated.
 
Use a spare sparkplug or a spark tester to see if there's spark on the high-tension wire coming out of the coil.

If there's spark that far, it's a distributor cap or rotor problem.

If there's NO spark coming out of the coil (while cranking engine) but spark at the points, likely you have a coil or condensor problem.
 
Ok i will go try that

another question I noticed where the positve lead hits the solonoid I sometimes get a spark, I don't knwo why it's tight and clean on the solonoid

any ideas why that maybe
 
Not that familiar with your system, but on the old cars and trucks if you had spark at the points (a bad thing ) the condenser was shot. We always replaced points and condenser as a pair. Billy
 
Nowadays, with parts from "The Land of Almost Right" I think it's better to leave a used, still functioning, condenser in place when changing the points 'cause often it's a crapshoot if the new condenser will work or not!
 
You are correct, there will ALWAYS be some visible spark at the points even with a good condenser.
 
Well I can only think of 2 reasons for a spark there... a poor connection (could even be a bad connection where the battery cable terminal end is crimped on) or a bad insulator that insulates the solenoid's terminal from it's case.
 
I'd check the condensor first to see if it is bad,(cheap fix for a new one). I would also check the rotor and distributor cap for wear. Another cheap fix to replace those.
You said you get a spark at the "positive post" on the solenoid. Is your tractor a 6 volt positive ground system or a converted 12 volt negative ground system? If it is six volt positive ground,..there would be no positive post on the solenoid,..there would be a negative post for the negative battery terminal to attach to.
Good Luck
 
I've wondered this as I didn't know, I have a 12 v battery and the negative side of the battery goes right to the frame/by the stering column base.

I had just bought a 12 v solonoid and replaced it and it didn't work. I put the old one back on and it sparked the first time it turned over then didn't afterward. I ordered another 12v solonoid as well.

I'd guess mine is a 12v then since as you said the negative side of batery doesn't attach to it
 
Yes Sir, it sure is... I learned that one before the hard way..

there is play in the shaft though like I can move it up and down a bit (some play)

behooves me as it started having spark and I put some starting fluid in and it didn't even try to fire.

this sure hasn't happened in the past in this way, usually I either have or don't have spark..

or had or didn't have fuel

Thanks everyone for the help I really appreciate it.
 
Here's ano0ther question for you guys.. the solonoid and how it attches

there is an S on it and that connects to the s on the ignition. That is correct yes?

I notice on the new solonoid (that didn't work) there was an s and an I on it. I had nothing on the I though.

wondering if that connection is all correct as well
 
thank you for the tips it is invaluble to me. I will have to check the terminal as I did replace those.
 
also I have another connection from the key going to where the positive cable on the battery hits the solonoid.

Does this sound right? so 2 connection on the positive side of the solonoid (if im looking at it on the right) the left side only has the cable to the starter and as I previously said the terminal w/ an S also goes to the igition.
 
If you have a turn key to start you dont have the safety start switch on the transmission.Solenoid is a relay and there should be no problem connecting one.Your new part is probably ok, you are connecting it wrong.
 
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