Ford 1710 4X4 clutch replacement help needed

I'm getting ready to replace my elderly neighbor's dual clutch on his 1710 4X4 tractor, and I could use some help from someone who has actually replaced one. I have never worked on a tractor before, (although I have replaced many clutches on cars and trucks); any advice, photos, videos, pitfalls to avoid, or tips to make the process easier would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike

They're not too bad to change but you may very well need 3 floor jacks or a splitting stand to do the job. Normally one jack under the oil pan and one under the transmission is sufficient but because of the shaft setup on those things you probably can't get the jack placed correctly to balance it... so you may need a third at some point in time.
Beyond that... check the flywheel for wear. probably get it cut anyhow unless it's completly glass smooth. Also a good idea to change the engine rear seal and transmission input seals along with the pilot and release bearings. Then it's done... Also be aware of the direction that the disc is sitting. I don't recall if the disc is marked or not. I always stick the pot into the flywheel (provided it will fit) if the disc isn't marked.
Hy-Capacity likely has an affordable good quality kit with the pressure plate as well.

Rod

Like Rod says...

You can "lightly" hang that tractor on 2 jack stands (to take some load off the front end for removal) using hardened 5/8" bolts screwed into the side of the trans on the 2 bolt mounting flanges. Get the front end an inch or less into the air and use stands with shims at the flanges and bolts to take some load off the front end, lock the brake, pull the front end, dont let the 4wd shaft hit the ground, use a crane, pull the engine, etc.

Carolina Brake and Clutch can reline those disks for about $100 inc shipping. Replace the t/o bearing.

You will have to assemble and adjust the new clutch pack before re installing it onto the flywheel, a surface plate and a dial indicator come in handy for getting all 3 of the bolts that the t/o bearing hits adjusted to the same height so the t/o bearing hits all 3 bolt heads at the same time when disengaging the clutch. You may want to resurface or repoaition the bolt heads or if you are feeling rich, you can go get 3 new ones for $22 each from Ford. Ford has the procedure and the fixture for setting the clutch pack up for a slight fee. I figured out how to do it and wrote the procedure down, cant quote it right now but it isnt too complicated.

Eyeball the splines on the disk hubs real good to make sure everything is in as perfect alingment (centering) as possible when bolting the pack up to the flywheel. You have an input shaft and two splined shafts to line up during engine re installation. If it's off just a hair, it will fight you.

Those two bolt flanges will support the back half of the tractor and the engine, asking for them to support the front end hanging in the air too is asking a bit much though.

If you need the clutch pack procedure, post back and I will put it up for you, thats the most important part, (except for not dropping the tractor) especially if you have the flywheel ground.

scott#2

Hi Scott

Can you post the clutch pack procedure?

Thanks
CJ