3 pt lift

02ultrarider · Jul 3, 2010

I recently aquired a ford 2000 diesel tractor. the issue I"m having is that the box scraper and other implements that I used on my ford 8n don"t go down to the ground the lift looks like its down all the way, lift arms look stock, seem plenty long enough.the lift works great up and down, any ideas would be greatly apreciated. thanks Pete

Ultradog MN · Jul 3, 2010

Always mention whether it's a 3 or 4 cyl 2000D.
Somewhere - maybe between the NAA/Jubes and the first 100 series Ford changed the geometry on their 3 point. Lower lift arms got longer, the under axle brackets changed and maybe other things as well. I know a buzz saw that worked fine on an N would not fit a 3 cyl 2000. Nor do Danuser back blades or PHDs work right with a later Ford. If those are some of the impliments you find different I can understand.
A box blade now is a different story. Unless it is a very old one.

souNdguy · Jul 3, 2010

in addition to what UD said.. what rear rubber ya got? and have you tried moving the draft lever to see if it makes a difference.

soundguy

02ultrarider · Jul 3, 2010

its a 3cyl diesel, mid 70's,, box blade is not very old maybe 10 yrs, on the 8n the lift arms are real close to the ground with noting hooked up, these just don't go that low.

Ultradog MN · Jul 3, 2010

Yes.
2000 never came with adjustable lift link on the left side like the 3000 did. They were solid. So tire size would affect ground height of the lower arms. Though I think not too much. 2000 came with 12.4 rears and could have 13.6 on it now, Only about an inch in height at the balls diff.
Didn't think about draft/position handle. Could be.

awhtx · Jul 3, 2010

There were lift arm links (the rod that connects the upper and lower lift arms) of different lengths used on the Ford tractors from 1939-current. Maybe your original links got broken/bent and someone replaced them with links off of a 9N. I had the same problem on my 861D when I got it and that was what had happened to it.

souNdguy · Jul 3, 2010

I'm just trying to throw ideas out.. I know the rear rubber won't make alot of difference.. but every bit counts if he is having problems. I put 13.6-28's on my 740.. was not sure if it was going to be an issue with my mower.. and it wasn't.. of course.. the row crops have a lil different rear linkage anyway.

soundguy

02ultrarider · Jul 4, 2010

I played with the draft lever, no difference, the links are 21" long,ofcourse the right one is adjustable, tires are the 13.6's but worn down alot.

JMOR · Jul 4, 2010

(quoted from post at 16:57:35 07/04/10) I played with the draft lever, no difference, the links are 21" long,ofcourse the right one is adjustable, tires are the 13.6's but worn down alot.

21 is same as N tractors. What about the lift link dimensions? On the N tractors they are 15.75 from pint under differential to connecting lift rod point AND 16.5 from connecting lift rod to the implement connecting ball.
Clearly you do not have an N, but the dimensions might offer some clue???

02ultrarider · Jul 4, 2010

after looking and comparing parts on both tractors I noticed that the left top link was swiveled around there by shortening the overall length, turned it around and it lowered the arms a few inches, seems like it should still go lower, anyway I could get a longer link bar, or an adjustable one, or can I turn the top lift arms downward alittle bit? I saw that they have splines on them in a pic someplace.

3 pt lift

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