Ford 3000 Clutch Questions

200cs

Member
Ok this started last year when my pto would not stop turning with clutch pedal all the way down. The clutch was adjusted all the way in with no more left so I assumed it was clutch time.

last Saturday I split the tractor and noticed one of the three adjuster bolts had worked its self all the way in and the stop nut was laying in the bell housing. This bolt should have been out about 3/8 of an inch but instead was flush. This resulted in only two of the three clutch actuating arms doing their job.

Now I am undecided on what to do. I cant find any technical data stating the two friction discs should be a certain thickness before replacing or that they have so much life left in them...

I am going to replace the two discs and pilot bearing and throwout bearing since I am there but am thinking on re-using the pressure plate since I have the means to open it up. I just dont have a good method for checking the springs. What would you guys do if you were in my shoes? Also, I am thinking of buying all the parts from this site. Any good reason why I should not?

I also noticed a transmission front seal leaking so I will replace that also as well as the rear main engine seal.
Thanks in advance for your help.
 
It's pretty hard to set one of these 2 stage Ford clutches up without a clutch fixture. The fixtures are designed to set the proper clearences with new discs. If you buy a new or Reman kit, it should be preset from factory. Some of the repair manuals give measurements of finger height etc and the clearence for the second stage. I have a couple of the Ford clutch fixtures but don't use them too often.
 
Update:

I thought I would update as it might help someone else. I took the clutch and flywheel to a friend of mine who is a machinest. His thoughts were that the clutch looked really good and the loose adjuster bolt was the problem.

So I took it to a local clutch rebuilder in Dallas to get a second opinion and I am really glad I did. My clutch is almost new and was not adjusted correctly when installed the last time. I also purchased all of the seals including the rear main and transmission front seals, pilot bearing and misc. other gaskets. Total cost for the box of seals: 37.00. Total cost to set-up the double clutch assembly correctly: 35.00.

For grins I asked what it would cost to re-surface the clutch friction disk if needed. About 65.00 was his reply. What would it cost to remanufacture my Ford 3000 Double Clutch: about 340.00. While I was there, I noted several clutch assemblies from local car and tractor repair shops in the area were there getting remanufactured. So for any body in the Dallas area that needs clutch work, you might want to give this company a call:

American Power Brake and Clutch
652 W. Mockingbird Lane
Dallas, TX 75247
(214) 350-5611

This company saved me several hundred dollars and I just wanted to pass it along.
 
(quoted from post at 08:48:22 04/05/10) Ok this started last year when my pto would not stop turning with clutch pedal all the way down. The clutch was adjusted all the way in with no more left so I assumed it was clutch time.

last Saturday I split the tractor and noticed one of the three adjuster bolts had worked its self all the way in and the stop nut was laying in the bell housing. This bolt should have been out about 3/8 of an inch but instead was flush. This resulted in only two of the three clutch actuating arms doing their job.

Now I am undecided on what to do. I cant find any technical data stating the two friction discs should be a certain thickness before replacing or that they have so much life left in them...

I am going to replace the two discs and pilot bearing and throwout bearing since I am there but am thinking on re-using the pressure plate since I have the means to open it up. I just dont have a good method for checking the springs. What would you guys do if you were in my shoes? Also, I am thinking of buying all the parts from this site. Any good reason why I should not?

I also noticed a transmission front seal leaking so I will replace that also as well as the rear main engine seal.
Thanks in advance for your help.

iirc,

you set the bolt by using a certain size drill bit to set the gap on each finger by adjusting the bolt. the drill bit was used for a feeler guage.
 

Thanks for the heads-up. I'll keep them in mind.

About 2 years ago, I was barely able to keep the PTO from spinning on mine by adjusting it all the way, so I've been thinking that it's just a matter of time. :?
 

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