Engine was running rough, replaced plugs, plug wires and evenually adjusted the points. The plugs are set at 25, the plug wires were replaced one at a time to avoid re-wiring error. After the engine would not start, we did adjust the points using both the little gauge that came with the points & condenser. Getting spark at both the points when bumping the starter and at the sparkplugs when everything is put back together. The plugs do appear to be very wet when we re-pulled the plugs to test for spark at the plug. The distributor has not been moved so I am at a loss.
- Thread starter Rdwhite
- Start date
Larry NCKS
Well-known Member
Did you put Champion plugs in your engine? If you did, take them out and put something else in there, preferably Autolites. If that fails, check for fuel, and then vacuum.
A preliminary might be to spray a little ether in the intake and see if that makes it fire. If it does, you've got fueling issues.
Did you get a FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK, the color of lightning? That"s what you need to have. A Sorry little yellow, or reddish bluish spark is not good. If you don"t have a FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK, check to make sure that you have good connections in the primary ignition circuit, double check the gap setting on the points Jumper around the key switch to make sure that isn"t bad.
Are you using cooper core spark plug wires? You should be. The carbon cores are meant for modern cars not old tractors.
Are you using cooper core spark plug wires? You should be. The carbon cores are meant for modern cars not old tractors.
Autolite 216's were in the engine and we replaced them with the same plugs.
We did spray a shot of either in the breather and into the set screw on the side of the carburator, both same results, not starting. Appeared to act the same if we were trying to start with or without choking. I think it was number 2 cylinder vapor came out of the hole and fell down the side of the engine block when we were testing the plug for spark.
We did spray a shot of either in the breather and into the set screw on the side of the carburator, both same results, not starting. Appeared to act the same if we were trying to start with or without choking. I think it was number 2 cylinder vapor came out of the hole and fell down the side of the engine block when we were testing the plug for spark.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
If I'd have followed Jerry/MT's advise I sure would have saved a lot of time and money. The original key switches are worn out by now and the after market ones are crap. I went crazy replacing everything to finally figure out that it was a bad switch. Slightest vibration would shut it off. Those systems are so simple just look for the obvious.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
check the coil. take the lead out of the dist. cap and place it near the metal so it can jump then crank the motor.that bluish spark like Jerry/MT says should show.do this from a distance because it can be lethal.If ok move the dist. a fraction while cranking and see if that has any effect.
Number 2 would do that because there is no plug to ignite the unburnt fuel.
Number 2 would do that because there is no plug to ignite the unburnt fuel.
showcrop
Well-known Member
Rd. A vacuum gauge can tell you a lot about how your engine is running and be a good tune up tool. It taps into the intake manifold . You may have to drill and tap a hole for it. Your problem is sounding to me like a valve or head gasket problem and the compression test will tell the story on either. Both tools are very good to have.
The owner got the engine to fire this morning by rotating the plug wires one hole to the right. Seems that when he put the points, condenser and coil on the tractor down in the timber after I had stopped by a couple of months ago, or sometime prior to that he had replaced the plug wires himself and the boots were too loose allowing moisture in the cap terminal. He apparently had got the wires off then and when I replaced them the other day, I replaced them one at a time to make sure I didn't get them wired wrong. Long story short... starts right up, idles smooth with basically no smoke.
Thanks for everyones input on this problem, it had me talking to myself big time. The owner had asked about rotating the wires the last time I was there, but I dismissed it because I had seem it start up although it was running rough.
Guess I need to listen more....
Thanks for everyones input on this problem, it had me talking to myself big time. The owner had asked about rotating the wires the last time I was there, but I dismissed it because I had seem it start up although it was running rough.
Guess I need to listen more....
No! When I want to check the spark stregth, I pull the center high tension lead out of the distributor cap and hold it near a good ground and try a start. That"s the business side of the ignition system.
I don"t see what purpose looking for a spark at the points serves. In fact the condensor should minimize a spark at the points.
I don"t see what purpose looking for a spark at the points serves. In fact the condensor should minimize a spark at the points.
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