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Ford 3000 PTO Clutch

2

200cs

Member
Hi all,

I have read on some other posts here that a clutch can be freed by pulling the starter, etc. My PTO Clutch stopped working last summer and I was planning on a split / replacement this winter. Is there a cheater method like for the transmission clutch, or is it a waste of time? By the way, it is a 3000 8-speed with live PTO. Thanks in advance for your replies, you all are a big help...
 
can you be any less vauge on the 'stopped working' part?

does it not disengage.. or not engage.

IE.. is your pto always on or always off?


soundguy
 
(quoted from post at 13:27:46 11/18/09) can you be any less vauge on the 'stopped working' part?

does it not disengage.. or not engage.

IE.. is your pto always on or always off?


soundguy
Click to expand...

Sorry for the confusion: when I purchased the tractor I could push the clutch in and engage the PTO and then it would stop turning if you pushed the clutch all the way in.
Now, it does not stop turning and it is hard to engage with a mower attached if the tractor is running and does not stop turning when you push in the clutch. Last few times I used it, I warmed up the tractor then stopped the motor, engaged the PTO and started the tractor. I left it turning until I was finished.
 
First try adjusting the clutch pedal to 1 1/4" - 1 1/2" of free play.
See if that helps.
But I have a hunch that your pto disc is worn out and someone adjusted it to get the last bit of life out of it.
I had the same symptoms/problem with my 3600 and had to split the tractor to renew the dual clutch.
 
(quoted from post at 09:00:07 11/19/09) First try adjusting the clutch pedal to 1 1/4" - 1 1/2" of free play.
See if that helps.
But I have a hunch that your pto disc is worn out and someone adjusted it to get the last bit of life out of it.
I had the same symptoms/problem with my 3600 and had to split the tractor to renew the dual clutch.
Click to expand...

Ultradog MN, I am thinking that is where I am as there is no more adjustment left. I was just kinda wishing there was a quick, cheap cure. I am already planning a split and will stick to my plans.......

Did you have to change the pressure plate or did you just change the disks? The whole set up is expensive for a poor guy just trying to make ends meet in the new "Hope and Change" economy! Serously, I would like to save a buck or two if I can. Your thoughts?
 
I went round and round with it myself. When I got the tractor split the drive disc looked just fine. The PTO disc looked pretty good too. About the only place I could find the pto disc was the dealer for about $110. Then I would have to pay them to install the new disc in the pressure plate as it requires a special jig. So another $100 or so. Finally I just bit the bullet and bought the whole kit from this site - about $425 with shipping which included a new pressure plate, new drive clutch, throw out bearing, pilot bearing and align tool.
I only have about 50 hours on it since then - mowing - but so far so good.
I replaced the rear engine seal while I was in there too. Just because...
 
Not to pick nits, but it's more likely a symptom of a worn transmission disc than a PTO disc. A thin TX disc reduces throw on the PTO pressure plate until it will release no more. Test by eliminating ALL pedal freeplay temporarily, and see if the PTO disc unloads.
 
You might check with someone in your area who rebuilds clutch units. I use a company in Chattanooga, Feltons Clutch Service. All I do is take my clutch and pressure plate in and walk out with one that is reman and buy a new t.o.b and pilot bearing, from them too. I checked on one... 3 prone, 11" disc, 15 spline was $225 p.p. $38.99 disc $25.83 t.o.b. $8 pilot, plus tax.
 
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