paulrobert
New User
hi..cannot get diesel through the db injection pump. tried pulling down the road to prime, but nothing.help...is there a rebuild kit available and is it difficult to do?
- Thread starter paulrobert
- Start date
The owner can replace the governor ring and seals inside the pump but I'm pretty sure anything having to do with fuel delivery will require an injection shop's services.
Can you provide a little more information such as:
The tractor was running and it ran out of fuel?
You replaced the filter and now you can't get it primed?
You just bought the tractor in non-running condition?
Can you provide a little more information such as:
The tractor was running and it ran out of fuel?
You replaced the filter and now you can't get it primed?
You just bought the tractor in non-running condition?
Larry NCKS
Well-known Member
800 series did not have a diesel engine option from the factory. Therefore, you either have an 801 series or a cobbled in system. It would help to know which we're dealing with here for sure.
It would also help to know what other steps you've followed. i.e.: Have you removed the fuel supply line from the pump and made certain you're getting good fuel flow there? Have you bled the pump and loosened all the injector lines at the injectors and attempted to bleed the system? If so what were the results?
Just off the top of my head, if the metering valve is stuck, it doesn't take a whole lot to replace that. You do need to know what you're doing, however.
Failure of the plastic weight retainer inside is common and happens over time, regardess of engine hours. Stanaydyne/Roosamaster eliminated it in 1985 with a newer style.
When it fails, little pieces get stuck in the fuel return circuit, pump housing overpressurizes, and engine quits.
Once off, it takes an hour to take the pump all part, fix, and put back together. I had to do many, on site, from the back of a service vehicle. No fuel adjustments have to be touched, so calibration is not an issue.
Total parts cost is usually around $25. For an extra $45, you can upgrade an eliminate the plastic forever. Otherwise, expect it to last 10-15 years. Send it to a shop and expect to pay $300 to $600 just to have those $25 worth of parts installed.
One note though. That pump has a "fused" driveshaft that is designed to snap in two if the pump turns too hard. So, you'd better check and make sure the pump is actually turning. Easy to check by looking into the timing-window.
When it fails, little pieces get stuck in the fuel return circuit, pump housing overpressurizes, and engine quits.
Once off, it takes an hour to take the pump all part, fix, and put back together. I had to do many, on site, from the back of a service vehicle. No fuel adjustments have to be touched, so calibration is not an issue.
Total parts cost is usually around $25. For an extra $45, you can upgrade an eliminate the plastic forever. Otherwise, expect it to last 10-15 years. Send it to a shop and expect to pay $300 to $600 just to have those $25 worth of parts installed.
One note though. That pump has a "fused" driveshaft that is designed to snap in two if the pump turns too hard. So, you'd better check and make sure the pump is actually turning. Easy to check by looking into the timing-window.
Only one I know of that is on-line and free is the military manual for DB2 pumps used on CUCVs and Humvees. Very similar but not exactly the same as the D-series that Ford uses.
Deere, Ford, IH, Oliver, Allis Chalmers, and probably others give very detailed information on pump repair if you get the correct manual. My 4000 Ford manual for the 172 diesel has it. So does my Allis HD4 manual. So does my Oliver OC4 manual. All those companies and more use the same basic Stanadyne/Roosamaster pumps.
Also, another popular antique tractor website sells a manual on CD for around $25. It's a copy of SM-2045 from Deere and is actually a Stanadyne DB pump manual, along with a other Standyne pump models (C, JDB, DC, etc.). That manual would give you all the repair info you need.
Deere, Ford, IH, Oliver, Allis Chalmers, and probably others give very detailed information on pump repair if you get the correct manual. My 4000 Ford manual for the 172 diesel has it. So does my Allis HD4 manual. So does my Oliver OC4 manual. All those companies and more use the same basic Stanadyne/Roosamaster pumps.
Also, another popular antique tractor website sells a manual on CD for around $25. It's a copy of SM-2045 from Deere and is actually a Stanadyne DB pump manual, along with a other Standyne pump models (C, JDB, DC, etc.). That manual would give you all the repair info you need.
Yes, but Ford often sent out sales literature loosely calling it the "800" series, and then want on to define the different packages, e.g. a 801 diesel. 600, 800, 900 etc. were common terms by used by many customers and Ford tractor dealers - and it still creates some confusion.
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Sorry about that. I just didn't want to tick off the people that own this Website by mentioning a competitor here. I've had posts deleted previously when I did it. What the other guy posted is correct. It's a good deal and a great reference source.
I'll add that all the parts are for sale aftermarket to anybody from a place in Italy. Same country where much of OEM Stanadyne parts come from. I use Spaco. Parts have been fine an half the price of Stanadyne brand.
I buy from US Diesel in Texas. Great prices and fast shipping. They sell both brands in case you want to spend twice as much and want Stanaydne only.
I'll add that all the parts are for sale aftermarket to anybody from a place in Italy. Same country where much of OEM Stanadyne parts come from. I use Spaco. Parts have been fine an half the price of Stanadyne brand.
I buy from US Diesel in Texas. Great prices and fast shipping. They sell both brands in case you want to spend twice as much and want Stanaydne only.
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