860 rear main seal

This is my first Ford restoration project,so I would like to ask the experts about a question I have. I do have the Ford shop, parts, and operators manual, but I have an 860 Ford with a leaking rear main seal, and I see nothing about changing the rear seal with engine still in. The shop manual shows only with engine removed. Is it possible to change the seal by dropping the pan? If it is, I would like some advice on the procedure. Any and all help would be much appreciated. Thanks, Bob

Hello Bob;

There are some who have been successful in removing the rear main seal without splitting the tractor. I was not able to do it on my 850. To do it you must pull the pan, remove the rear main bearing cap. This will give you access to the upper half of the rope seal. You can loosen the other bearing caps to allow the crank to drop and some room, but for obvious reasons you must be careful you don't go to far. There is a tool called a "Sneaky Pete" which will aid in the removal and installation. Napa carries them. It didn't help me though. With some patience and time on your back you can pull, dig, pick or anything else to get the upper seal out. Once out, you will need to install the new rope seal using the Sneaky Pete. Unless you have the special tool to seat the seal, a 2 inch wooden dowel and hammer can be used to tap the seal and seat it in the channel. The lower seal must be seated as well. The Manual will tell where to cut the new seal. You can then install the wedge seals in the bearing cap. DO NOT soak them with oil as they will swell quickly and prevent installation. Intsall them and then put some 3 in 1 oil on them until they swell. Some folks have had trouble with the newer wedge seals not swelling and they fit loosely which needless to say does not seal anything. Apply a very small bead of RTV in the corners of the block where the bearing cap meets the block. Then reinstall the cap and torque all caps.

It's also been reported that CNH has trouble with their seals. Try e-mailing John Smith for his advice or contact external_link for their seals and advise. You can also search the archives for info as this is an often discussed topic. Also be aware that what seems to be a rear main seal leak can be a leak from the cover to the hydrailic pump drive gear located on the back of the engine, or it can be the input shaft seal in the transmission, or it can be a leak in the hydraulic tubes that pass through the trans to the hydraulic pump manifold. The type of oil will help narrow it down for you. Hope this helps.

Replacing the rear main seal in this engine while in the tractor has been done many times with, I would venture to say, limited success, considering the time and labor involved. Doing it according to the book, if you are equipted to handle the engine, doesn't take that much longer and the success rate is a whole lot higher. And don't depend on the oil to thicken the side seals on the main bearing block.The ones I have seen recently need to be sealed on both sides with silacone.

If you add in the frustration factor, I'd yank the engine in a heart beat! Certaily over trying to futz with the rear seal laying on my back with oil dripping down my arm and into my eyes while I breathe hard and try to keep from cussing.

If the rear seal is out, you probably want to look at the rest of the bearings etc etc etc.

(quoted from post at 23:35:25 10/03/09)
If you add in the frustration factor, I'd yank the engine in a heart beat! Certaily over trying to futz with the rear seal laying on my back with oil dripping down my arm and into my eyes while I breathe hard and try to keep from cussing.

If the rear seal is out, you probably want to look at the rest of the bearings etc etc etc.

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Bob,

You use the word "restoration" in your question, with that in mind, I would agree with JB and the others on taking the longer, easier route with a greater chance of success. While it will take longer, consider all the other things you can inspect/restore while doing it that way, not to mention cleaning things up some.

JB, I worked on a christian boys ranch for troubled young men for three years. Part of our expectation for them was to control their language, ie no cussing. Believing I needed to set the example, if I slipped up, I did the same consequence we expected of them, 25 push-ups, 50 for the F-word. I share this to say, I can by and large control my tongue, for I didn't do very many push-ups. However, something about having a wrench in my hand and working on something just brings out the sailor in me. Even when I enjoy turning a wrench, I find the wrong words (for me) just roll off my tongue. Still can't say exactly why.

Chris

(quoted from post at 07:52:35 10/04/09)


However, something about having a wrench in my hand and working on something just brings out the sailor in me. Even when I enjoy turning a wrench, I find the wrong words (for me) just roll off my tongue. Still can't say exactly why.

Chris

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Ain't that the truth!

all I am now on my 6th try with a 960 seal - I believe teh CNH and Felpro two piece seal are not tight enough in the journals they sit in. I have noticed the aftermarket seals are much tighter there. for the side wedges I think the felpro kit rubber wedges with a spike that you drive in to spread them out is a good option. This is my learning so far. Maybe this weekend I will try my new theory out.