Ford 3600 Diesel, fuel pump

Engine was running great when it was shut down. About 2 months later it wouldn't start. Found no fuel getting to filter. Drained fuel tank found strainer plugged. Cleaned strainer and shutoff valve, dumped fuel, replaced with new. Replaced fuel filter, vented filter until full of fuel. Open the vent on the fuel pump, turn engine over until it squirted a stream of fuel. Loosen connections on injector lines at all 3 injectors. Tried the starter several times and for as long as 20 seconds each time. No trace of fuel at any of the injectors? The connections are finger loose.

I've never had this problem or tried venting the injectors but I feel the pump should be putting some fuel out the loosen connections. I would think the pump should pump a little at no pressure even if the pump has became faulty?

What next?

I see a connection on the fuel pump at each injector line. It looks like a cap. I'm not talking about the union on the injector line. What is the purpose of this connection?

Sounds like your metering valve inside the pump is stuck in the off position. It happens on those pumps when they sit for a long time.

Try slamming the fuel shutoff lever back and forth hard several times to see if that breaks it loose. Otherwise, the top of the pump will have to come off in order to free it up (not a hard job).

I've tried moving the shut off lever back and forth. From outside of the pump it moves free. I suppose the top of the pump is where the throttle and shut off lever is attached? Is there any special precautions I need to know to remove the top of the pump? I'm attaching a picture of the pump. Right now I'm not at our farm where the tractor is located but will be going back in a couple weeks.
Thanks

Unlike the Stanadyne/Roosamaster pumps that use a rubber seal-ring, the CAV uses a hard gasket on the top cover. It will sometimes break when you pull off the top cover.

Here's some CAV diagrams showing the metering valve.

<a href="http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/?action=view&current=injpump3.jpg" target="_blank"></a>

<a href="http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/?action=view&current=governor.jpg" target="_blank"></a>

Maybe you could have a look at my post about a similar pump above.
Thanks

Thanks for the diagrams, I've printed them. They are a big help.
Is it possible to cut a new gasket? I probably couldn't buy a new one.
Looking at the pump I don't see what holds the top cover on?
Hope I don't have take loose any of the springs.
After getting the cover off how do I free up the metering valve?

Olefin, there are indeed small springs under the top cover of the DAV. And, each one has to be hooked EXACTLY in the same hole or the tractor will never run right again. Also, replace the small O-rings around the throttle shaft and the cut-off shaft, because they will eventually dry out and leak. Don't tight-wad about the gasket buy a new one, as it is very thin and must seal with minimum pressure. The long quote below is from previous posts about the CAV pumps, so ignore the parts non-aplicable. Tom

Is your pump a CAV? If it is a CAV, I have been there done that. The CAV is prone to leaking around the throttle shaft and the cut-off shaft. First you will need to get 2 or 3 cans of engine cleaner. Clean, clean, and clean again the whole area. After each spraying, hose off, let dry and do it again. Cleaner the better, if you drop a ball of grease/dirt into the top while the cover is off - big trouble, one piece of crud dropped into the bottom of the pump will cost you about $600-700. Now using a paper towel, start looking for your leak; it will show up real easy on the dry, clean paper towel.
1. MOST important thing is to have some paper and pencil BEFORE you take off the cover.
2. Remove shut-off linkage and throttle linkage.
3. Remove screws or nuts holding lid on.
4. DO NOT just lift up the top. Lift it just a little, very carefully so you can peek under it. A spring is attached from the lid to the bottom part of the pump. One end of spring is hooked on a wide post looking like a tombstone. The tombstone has several holes in it. Write down which hole the spring is hooked in before you remove it. The other end is through one of the holes in the flattened end of the control rod. Again write down the hole it is in before you remove it. This step is VERY IMPORTANT. If the spring is not reassembled to EXACTLY the same holes on both ends, the tractor will never run right again. The same pump can be used on different model tractors with the only difference being how the spring is hooked. My MF dealer mechanic can tell the proper holes by using the 3 numbers on the CAV. Now remove the spring, and lift off the lid.
5. Write down the model/year of tractor, and the model of the CAV pump and serial number. There are 3 different numbers on my CAV pump.
6. Take the cover with you and head to MF dealer and purchase a new gasket and four (4) tiny o-rings that fit around the throttle shaft and the shut-off shaft. Each shaft has 2 o-rings. If the o-rings are not leaking now, they soon will so replace all of them. Total cost of gasket and 4 o-rings is about $5 or $6.
7. You will need a little patience and two extra hands to get the spring attached on both ends and the new gasket fitted. I did this complete procedure on my MF 690 and now it has NO LEAKS.
Tom

Thanks Tom.
Now that's the kind of instructions that I like!
The tractor had no previous leaks but I will follow your instructions to a T if I have to remove the cover.

You never mention what to do for my problem with the stuck metering valve.
I'm first going to remove the kill cable so I can work the valve faster maybe freeing it.