Bent push rod on gas 172 - where to find one, spare anybody?

hzl6cm

Member
I was reinstalling the head on my gas 961 yesterday. After bolting down the head and installing the rockers and push rods, I cranked the engine of, with the plugs out, to make sure that the valve training was being oiled properly. When I did this it bent the heck out of one push rods for the #1 cylinder. It bent it right over where it came out of the head. Now I need a replacement, but the only new ones that I have found are for a diesel engine - does anybody have a spare used one that they would part with? I haven't tried to figure out why it bent over, I'm assuming that I didn't have it seated all of the way down in the lifter since the valves were moving fine when I pulled the head 15 months ago (because of zero compression in cylinders 1 and 2 which turned out to be due to a badly blown head gasket). I had the head cleaned, planed and pressure checked but didn't pull the valves. Thanks.

Kevin
 
NEVER STRAIGHTEN BENT ANYTHING IN AN ENGINE.
i have the push rods you need, used $10.00 + shipping. call me on monday, 740-569-7351 thanks Jake.
 

John Smith probably has one for you too.

(google up "smith and 8n and tractor" to find his site. Sorry,but I don't recall it off hand)


You do need to see why the PR bent. Normally that's due to something going very bad. Stuck valve, squirrel in the combustion chamber, etc.

jb
 

John Smith probably has one for you too.

(google up "smith and 8n and tractor" to find his site. Sorry,but I don't recall it off hand)


You do need to see why the PR bent. Normally that's due to something going very bad. Stuck valve, squirrel in the combustion chamber, etc.

jb
 
I would straighten that one out and use it to try to figure out what caused it to bend. Sounds like a stuck valve. Did you oil the rockerarm shaft? I would just use it till you get another one. I found one sweeping out the garage this morning. How close are you to Charleston?
Ron
 
I pulled the head yesterday, used a lead hammer to "perswade" the valve to close and then to drive it out after removing the spring. There was just some corrosion on the valve stem. I wire brushed the stem, used an engine oil passage cleaner brush and WD 40 on the valve guide and got it so that the valve moved freely. I reassembled the head and rotated the engine by hand and the valve moved freely. I need to drain the oil, which appears to be full of coolant, put in new oil and coolant and finish bolting on the gas tank before trying to start it.
 
Before putting the valve cover back on, it might do to roll the engine over by hand to make sure the valves are doing what they are supposed to.
 
hzl6cm
May I suggest that you run a straight grade "non detergent oil" for your first oil change.
The antifreeze glazes the cylinder walls and is not good for the rings. This oil will help break your rings in again.
Brian
 

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