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6 volt coil test

1

1SG Steve

Member
I have a 1963 Ford 2000. I am trying to learn how to properly test my coil. You guys have been great in answering my questions. Thanks a million.
 
For the most part they either work or they do not work. The common man does not have the correct tools to test one well. Now if you still think you need to test it do this. Hook one wire from one side of the coil to the battery, unhook it from the distributor first. Then take the other wire and hook and unhook it from the battery fast off and on with a wire from the center to the block. If you get spark it stand about an 80% chance of being good. Coil do not go bad often and when they do most of them will still work for an hour or so any how
Hobby farm
 
Yes but again the common man will not be likely to have the right tool to test them either. Now days it is not uncommon to buy a new one and it is bad. What I do when I believe it is a bad new one is to put the old one back in and see if it works. If it does I leave it there. Condensers do not go bad often either and lots of times I don't even change them because of how many of the new ones do not work like they should
 
Condensers are tested on an RC bridge.First the actual capacity is measured then a voltage is applied to see if the insulation is failing be cause moisture is getting inside the condenser.heat can be used to see if the condenser has problems.
 
But how many people own an RC bridge so they can check them??? Most people I know are lucky to have a meter and then if they have a meter most don't know how to use them. LOL
Hobby farm
 
olds way will not work with out a condenser in the circuit,,, 2 ways to do a quick check

1) remove the coil wire from the cap,,, hold it 1/4' from a ground,,, spin starter,,, will it jump the gap,,, if yes its most likely good,,, if not then its the coil are other possibilities

2) take the dist cap off,,, remove the coil wire from the cap,,, hold it 1/4' from a ground,,, with the points closed open and break the points with the switch on,,,will it jump the gap,,, if yes its most likely good,,, if not then its the coil are other possibilities

3) screw a set of points and condenser to a board (condenser mount must B grounded to the base of the points) with some jumpers you can check most any coil

just cuzz you have spark it don't mean chit,,, its the gap it will jump that you are look'n 4 so thats why you need to confirm how much punch the coil can deliver,,, weak coils just don't have it,,, good'ns do
 
Funny I have been checking coils that way since I was 10 year old. Hook it up to a battery and unhook it off and on and yep you get spark. No points in the system so no need for a condenser. Had a set up sort of like that that I took to school just to zap people with only thing different was I had a handle that switched it on and off the fast you turned the handle the more times you would zap the person
 
Sure it does it means it works, now for how long or how well that is another story. I learned that one way back when from a man who owned a small shop in Leigh Neb. That is how he checked coils and it seemed to work for him and it has always worked for me
 
Your tractor came with a great device for testing the coil.. it's called a distribuitor and sparkplug..

if your points are right, condensor is good, and points open and close,a nd power is right, and plugs are good, and no spark.. coil is bad.

Hit a backissue of n-news vol 23, #1 winter 2008.. shows you how to build my ignition tester with a handfull of cheap parts..

soundguy
 
I have had one for over 40 years in my shop,just bought 2 more so each bench has one.They cost 10 to 20 bucks used .Im still using the meter I bought in 1952 on the bench now.I learned to use it when I was about 14.If you can find an old time radio man he will test them for you and show you how to use The RC bridge.They are for sale on the auction site.Heathkit made the best low priced one,Eico and Paco are for sale all the time.Before I had the bridge I checked condensers with a checker built in to my tube tester.
 
"now for how long or how well that is another story."

OK lets hear the other story,,, whats the purpose of the test if it can not verify the health of the coil,,, sounds like both of ya spend alot of time chasing yer tail
 
Sounds like you have some test equipment that is very very old. I haven't seen a tube tester in years. Had one at one time but got rid of it when it got to the point you could not find tubes any more. I still remember when it cost you over $100 for a meter and now days you can buy them for under $20. First meter I ever priced was a Simpson 260 and I could not afford to buy it but I was also around 13 years old so I had very little money to play with
 
I still work on old car radios.My meter is a Superior 670, cost 28.50. Payments of 6.00 per month.I have 5 vtvms around, RCA, Eico,NRI but still favor the 670.I have plenty of tubes from early radio to color TV .My son bought a Simpson 260 for 2 bucks at a yard sale, meter movement is open.
 
But if you where to go back into the late 60s early 70s a Simpson 260 cost a person around $100 or more and back then that was a lot of money for a kid in his teens which I was back then. Years ago I had a good number of old tubes and test equipment but I found I hated working on stuff like that even though I had been an E.T in the navy doing computer repair
 
(quoted from post at 18:42:16 01/19/09) But if you where to go back into the late 60s early 70s a Simpson 260 cost a person around $100 or more and back then that was a lot of money for a kid in his teens which I was back then. Years ago I had a good number of old tubes and test equipment but I found I hated working on stuff like that even though I had been an E.T in the navy doing computer repair
Click to expand...

OK ET wizard,,, go take the condenser loose from your points and see if it will run,,, would b no different than your useless coil test
 
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