Tractor starts but dies after 2 min

I recently posted and received some great feedback on troubleshooting my tractor problem. I believe we"ve narrowed it down to a fuel/carb problem.
Someone suggested I may have a condensor or ballast resistor problem. I have attached a photo of my carb. Fuel seems to be flowing OK and drips consistently when I loosened screw #2. Fuel drips only slightly when I removed the plug #4. Not sure the function of #1, 3, or 5.

The tractor starts OK, then stops after 1 to 2 minutes. The throttle rod with a the spring is extended forward at first, then springs back and appears to cut off the fuel flow and the tractor dies. Then I need to wait about 5-10 minutes before the tractor will start again, before quitting after another minute or 2.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Gently but firmly rap the carb a couple times when the tractor dies off.

If it runs after that, your needle float valve is sticking into it's seat. It allows fuel to slowly leak by, but won't drop down to allow fuel to flow by, so you only get to run as much as the carb body holds.

Happened on our Ford 960's and IHC tractors a few times.

--->Paul

You need to take the Carb off and clean and inspect every thing. It could need new seats and needles

Rancher;

#1 is the sediment bowl for the carb. It has a fine mesh screen at the top that filters out dirt and debris from the fuel tank. From the photo it looks like it needs a good cleaning.

#3 is the main adjustment needle or power adjustment needle. It's used in the adjustment of the carb. It is generally set a 1 to 1 1/4 turns out for initial adjustment.

#5 is the idle fuel adjustment needle. Its initial adjustment is one turn out.

You should have more flow than just dripping from #4, the drain.

Inside the tank is another screen filter which is attached to the fuel shut off valve. These can become plugged by dirt and rust in the tank. You can check it by draining the tank and using a small mirror and light to check it out; or drain the tank and remove the valve.

If you remove the drain (#4) you should let it drain into a bucket for five minutes. But since it is only dripping I'd say its time to remove the carb, disassemble and soak over night in a good carb cleaner. Napa sells a gallon can with a parts basket. Once it has soaked over night you can then scrub, rinse and blow out with compressed air. Then install the parts from a rebuild kit, adjust the float etc. If you need the adjustment procedure post back. The purchase of a Ford Shop Manual and a Master Parts Catalog are very helpful.

IIRC.. you have already been told you have a fuel obstruction.. I'd check the float needle / seat.

check fuel tot he sediment bowl, and thru the bowl as well, before taking the carb apart.

soundguy

This is just me, but I would purchase a carb rebuild kit as well as new mesh screens etc. Take carb off, soak overnight in cleaner, and otherwise clean everything and blow out passages with compressed air. Then carefully reassemble everything according to specs. Now, at least, you know that you have eliminated the carb as your problem and can move on.

had a guy come by my shop couple days ago had same problem as you do. i cold have went took off carb did all the right things made a couple bucks, i had him go home tap on the carb talked to him later this weak say it runs like new. two raps and didn't cost him any thing. hes up and running sometime the simplest repair are the best.