Roosa Master Injection pump 63 or 64 172CI Engine Ford 4000

Dan Francis

New User
I have a DBGVCC 429 4AL on my 63 or 64 Ford 4000. I think the govenor ring is going out. It will surge to high RPM's and the throttle will not respond well at all. Just a slight tap down it will die, slight tap up it will rev up too high. Will a leak in the fuel return line cause this? Does anyone know if a DBGVCC 435 16AP pump will work in place of this one. I do know the plunger size is bigger but what other differences are there. I recently cleaned the fuel tank, changed the filter so I am dealing with good fuel delivery. It's wierd though, one day I can start it up and it runs great just like it should and another time start it up and it wants to run crazy. Will the govenor ring cause that?

Thanks

Dan
 
It sounds like governor ring debris. Only one way to find out.

You can get a kit to rebuild (well, reseal and fix the ring) from ebay for about 30-40 bucks.

jb
 
(quoted from post at 10:21:29 05/25/08) I have a DBGVCC 429 4AL on my 63 or 64 Ford 4000. I think the govenor ring is going out. It will surge to high RPM's and the throttle will not respond well at all. Just a slight tap down it will die, slight tap up it will rev up too high. Will a leak in the fuel return line cause this? Does anyone know if a DBGVCC 435 16AP pump will work in place of this one. I do know the plunger size is bigger but what other differences are there. I recently cleaned the fuel tank, changed the filter so I am dealing with good fuel delivery. It's wierd though, one day I can start it up and it runs great just like it should and another time start it up and it wants to run crazy. Will the govenor ring cause that?

Thanks

Dan

Yes, that sounds like a governor ring. There is a bit more to it than just buying the 30 dollar kit as JB suggests. You need to know what you're doing when you start working on one of these. Somewhere in the archives is pretty detailed post I wrote on proceedure. Do a search and you should find it.

The old plastic governor ring has become brittle and disintegrated. Little pieces of it are sporadically clogging your return causing your symptoms. The pump needs to be totally disassembled and cleaned and put back together with new seals and governor ring.
 
Also another thing if I disconnect the pump fuel return line it will run normal with good throttle response, fuel does come out the return hole on pump. When disconnecting the fuel return line should fuel flow freely out of that line from the tank?

Thanks

Dan
 
I have a book at home that decodes the model numbers on RoosaMaster pumps. I"m at work now but when I get home tonight I"ll look it up.
 
Dan
Check your return line all the way back, including the connection on the tank, to see if you have a blockage somewhere.
Also check your vent on the fuel cap.
Try running with the cap off, it may have a plugged vent.
Post back.
Brian
 
As you have stated the "429" pump has 4 plungers each of which is .290" in diameter and the "435" pump has 4 plungers each of which is .350" in diameter. The "4" and "16" near the end of each model are specification numbers and the "AL" and "AP" are accessory codes.
If the pump fits I would say go ahead and try it. It looks like the 2 pumps are basically the same.
 
No, nothing in the book about the differences.
My 1958 861D has a DBVGCC4298AJ which is the same as your pump until you get to those Specification and Accessory codes. Apparently those differences are minor in nature. I'd swap them out and give it a try if I were you.
 
The return line to tank is clear it will run a steady stream of fuel from the tank if disconnected from the pump. Also the tank is vented fine. Is there supposed to be a check valve in the fuel return line? If so is it at the T on the bottom of the tank or in the injection pump itself? To me it seems like what is happening is that when the return line is connected to the pump the pump is somehow getting extra fuel back from the tank and revving, is that possible?
 
There should be a stanpipe in the tank. It should keep fuel from running out the return when disconnected. Some of these are broken off. That should not alter engine/pump performance, however.

As to the different numbers on the pumps, I would expect different calibrations, timing, etc. unless you know that it came off a 172 cu in Ford engine in an 8 or 9*0 or 1 or a 4000. It would'nt be something I'd want to just "try", unless I knew exactly what it was!
 
Shattered plastic governor dampener ring sends small pieces of plastic all through the pump and often creates overly high housing pressure - which result in the problems like you describe.
Often leads to engine shut-down.

I had to fix many - out in the woods and field when I was a Deere mechanic. Deere,Case,IH, Ford, AC, Hercules, et. al. all use some versions of the same pump.

A complete seal kit with a new dampener is $12. A person with experience can pull the pump all apart, reseal and put back togeher - in one hour.

There is an updated dampener that can be installed and it will never come apart again - for an extra $40 (EID retainer). Stanadyne used it in all the pumps after 1985.

If your pump has high hours - you can assume it will need a few more parts than just the seal kit - if you want to replace them while apart. Main wear items are -

front drive bushing where the shaft-seals ride - new one cost $10.

fuel metering-valve - $12

fuel pump vanes and liner - $16.

That's about it - most pumps that get "rebuilt"
at a Stanadyne-certified only get those parts plus a seal kit. $50 in parts total. Cleaned up, put on a test-stand, fuel delivery and timing advance checked - and then a $350-$650 repair bill.

If you are careful - no adjustments get altered. You can, however, check the max. fuel delivery setting while apart with a 2" micrometer.
Timing advance can be checked on a running machine with a $8 plastic timing window - or a conventional timing light hooked to a piezo-pickup on an injector line.
 
Is it possible to replace the govenor ring without taking the pump off the engine?


(quoted from post at 13:23:20 05/26/08) Shattered plastic governor dampener ring sends small pieces of plastic all through the pump and often creates overly high housing pressure - which result in the problems like you describe.
Often leads to engine shut-down.

I had to fix many - out in the woods and field when I was a Deere mechanic. Deere,Case,IH, Ford, AC, Hercules, et. al. all use some versions of the same pump.

A complete seal kit with a new dampener is $12. A person with experience can pull the pump all apart, reseal and put back togeher - in one hour.

There is an updated dampener that can be installed and it will never come apart again - for an extra $40 (EID retainer). Stanadyne used it in all the pumps after 1985.

If your pump has high hours - you can assume it will need a few more parts than just the seal kit - if you want to replace them while apart. Main wear items are -

front drive bushing where the shaft-seals ride - new one cost $10.

fuel metering-valve - $12

fuel pump vanes and liner - $16.

That's about it - most pumps that get "rebuilt"
at a Stanadyne-certified only get those parts plus a seal kit. $50 in parts total. Cleaned up, put on a test-stand, fuel delivery and timing advance checked - and then a $350-$650 repair bill.

If you are careful - no adjustments get altered. You can, however, check the max. fuel delivery setting while apart with a 2" micrometer.
Timing advance can be checked on a running machine with a $8 plastic timing window - or a conventional timing light hooked to a piezo-pickup on an injector line.
 
Pump has to come off the engine and then separated into two halves to get to the governor weight assembly for repair. Here's a few photos.

<a href="http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/?action=view&current=weightretainerringoldstyle.jpg" target="_blank">
weightretainerringoldstyle.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket
</a>

<a href="http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/?action=view&current=DBDisassembledPump-1.jpg" target="_blank">
DBDisassembledPump-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket
</a>

<a href="http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/?action=view&current=dbsideways.jpg" target="_blank">
dbsideways.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket
</a>
 

Awesome work you've done. I opened up my "Roosa Master" DB2-4627, 3 cyl. I have a manual on it, but got scared a bit and didn't get to far. Without really opening it up like your pictures, it seems to look good otherwise. But it doesn't pump pressure to the injectors. The one thing the pump does weird, is that when you spin the gear, the barrel with the timing mark doesn't always spin. If I spin it fast with some fuel in the bottom it catches and turns a little. Is this normal, or is my problem related to this I wonder.
 
Well have the seal kit and a roosa master manual on the way. I think I can get it done. I am mechanically inclined and can usaully fix just about anything I put my mind to. I have rebuilt about 3 or 4 different carburetors before although it's been awhile. Any suprises I should know about while opening it up? I have read this post:

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=jd&amp;th=163321

Is it about the same (make sure I have it upside down when pulling housing off?)

Also the check valve I read about so much is that in the pump under the cover or should it be in the 90 degree fitting for the fuel return line. I just recently replaced that 90 due to the return line leaking and didn't see any type of ball and spring.
Would you happen to have the parts list for that image you posted of the pump? I have been able to find alot of different images, but that is the clearest yet and also has more of the parts numbered for details.


Thanks

Dan
(quoted from post at 19:53:38 05/26/08) Pump has to come off the engine and then separated into two halves to get to the governor weight assembly for repair. Here's a few photos.

&lt;a href="http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/?action=view¤t=weightretainerringoldstyle.jpg" target="_blank"&gt;&lt;img src="http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/weightretainerringoldstyle.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"&gt;&lt;/a&gt;

&lt;a href="http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/?action=view¤t=DBDisassembledPump-1.jpg" target="_blank"&gt;&lt;img src="http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/DBDisassembledPump-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"&gt;&lt;/a&gt;

&lt;a href="http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/?action=view¤t=dbsideways.jpg" target="_blank"&gt;&lt;img src="http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/dbsideways.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"&gt;&lt;/a&gt;
 
Finally got the pump apart. The plastic ring is gone. The weight retainer is in 2 pieces there is the part that holds the weights and then the plate, one of the rivets came out of the plate. If I purchase the newer EID retainer will that replace the whole govenor assembly(plate, retainer and ring)? Or will I have to buy a new govenor plate? What are the part#'s I will need?


Thanks

Dan

(quoted from post at 13:23:20 05/26/08) Shattered plastic governor dampener ring sends small pieces of plastic all through the pump and often creates overly high housing pressure - which result in the problems like you describe.
Often leads to engine shut-down.

I had to fix many - out in the woods and field when I was a Deere mechanic. Deere,Case,IH, Ford, AC, Hercules, et. al. all use some versions of the same pump.

A complete seal kit with a new dampener is $12. A person with experience can pull the pump all apart, reseal and put back togeher - in one hour.

There is an updated dampener that can be installed and it will never come apart again - for an extra $40 (EID retainer). Stanadyne used it in all the pumps after 1985.

If your pump has high hours - you can assume it will need a few more parts than just the seal kit - if you want to replace them while apart. Main wear items are -

front drive bushing where the shaft-seals ride - new one cost $10.

fuel metering-valve - $12

fuel pump vanes and liner - $16.

That's about it - most pumps that get "rebuilt"
at a Stanadyne-certified only get those parts plus a seal kit. $50 in parts total. Cleaned up, put on a test-stand, fuel delivery and timing advance checked - and then a $350-$650 repair bill.

If you are careful - no adjustments get altered. You can, however, check the max. fuel delivery setting while apart with a 2" micrometer.
Timing advance can be checked on a running machine with a $8 plastic timing window - or a conventional timing light hooked to a piezo-pickup on an injector line.
 
I want to thank everyone for the help and let y'all know that I have gotten the pump fixed up and resealed with the new governor assembly and the tractor is running great now.


Thanks

Dan
 
I am in the middle of a problem with freshly rebuilt 8 cyl Roosa Master / Stanadyne pump DB2 injection pumps that seems to have stuck metering valve . I was searching with google and found ytag.com and this great thread .

Here is link to a military manual for some GM diesels which has rebuild info for some DB2 injector pumps in chapter 2 -

http://www.badongo.com/file/9532103

Thanks
 
hi, i am new to old diesel tractors but have a little experience working on gas tractors. i have a 1963 ford 4000 with a 4 cylinder diesel and my injector pump was taken. does anyone know where i can find a used one.
thanks
josh
 

Do a search for Spencer Diesel in Spencer, Iowa. I ran across their website earlier today. $1097 for pump + $400 core charge. Best price I've seen for one outright. www.spencerdiesel.com
 

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