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Ford Tractors Discussion Forum
Show Parts for Model:

Replacing points on a Ford 3000

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Sam Hopkins

05-24-2004 11:21:55
169.144.118.138



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Hi Everyone,

I'm having problems with my Ford 3000 tractor staying running after it heats up (about 20 mins). It dies off like its not getting spark or gas (runs exactly like you I ran out of gas). I'm thinking either coil or vapor lock. Our gas just changed to the kind where they add alcohol to make it cleaner for the summer so that may be it as well. Anyway I have a coil on its way and I was going to replace the points. I was just wondering if anyone had any tips or things to watch for when replacing them. I only have the users manual not the service manual so I'm flying blind. If anyone has a manual and could post the steps I'd apprecaite it.

Thanks,

Sam

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Bob Jarvis

05-25-2004 09:39:14
67.98.18.66



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 Re: Replacing points on a Ford 3000 in reply to Sam Hopkins, 05-24-2004 11:21:55  
Check to be sure your electrical connections are tight all the way around. Last spring I had a helluva day with my 3000 - started it up as usual, started to do some plowing, and it just up and died. I'm a little hesitant about working on this tractor (it ain't broke, and I'm pretty good at breaking things :-) so I figured I was out of luck for the day if it was anything complicated, but went ahead and poked around anyways. What I found was that the nut that holds that battery lead to the stud on the starter solenoid (I think that's what it is, anyways) had backed off ever-so-slightly - as soon as I tightened it back up (no more than 1/4 turn) the tractor fired up and ran fine. After a couple more episodes like this I eventually used a wire brush to gently remove all the old cruddy paint and gunk from the battery terminal and the stud (which looks like it's either copper-plated or solid copper), replaced the nut with one that has a nylon insert to keep it from backing off, and then coated everything with conductive grease (spark plug anti-seize compound) to ensure conductivity. Don't know if this is anything like your problem but it takes almost no time to check.

Also, if you're going to replace the points you might just as well replace the condenser, rotor, distributor cap, spark plugs, and wires too. Do 'em all done at once and then you don't have to look for anything else. Just a thought.

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tony callahan

05-25-2004 03:33:29
207.40.151.167



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 Re: Replacing points on a Ford 3000 in reply to Sam Hopkins, 05-24-2004 11:21:55  
had the very same issue last year and did all that has been suggested,with no luck. i then changed spark plugs and the problem went away,may want to give that a try.



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Sam Hopkins

05-25-2004 06:41:56
169.144.118.139



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 Re: Re: Replacing points on a Ford 3000 in reply to tony callahan, 05-25-2004 03:33:29  
Thanks for the tip. I'll replace those as well.

Sam



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Tom in TN

05-24-2004 15:14:20
205.188.116.74



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 Re: Replacing points on a Ford 3000 in reply to Sam Hopkins, 05-24-2004 11:21:55  
Sam,

Replacing points inside a distributor is a simple, but somewhat precise process. You probably already know this, but just in case you don't, here's some background information. Points are comprised of two electrically isolated contacts. One of the contacts is part of the main portion of the assembly and electrically is always connected to ground. This is by virtue of the fact that the screw that holds the points to the distributor plate (which is always at ground potential)goes through the main portion of the assembly. There is no wire of any kind attached to this part of the points.

The other contact (which is electrically isolated from the one that is part of the main assembly) has a bolt and nut assembly on it. The nut loosens and two connections are made to it. The wire that comes out of the end of the condensor connects to it, and a small wire that passes through the side of the distributor and eventually ends up on one of the small connectors on the coil also connects to it.

So, to replace the points,

1.use a small open end wrench (usually around 5/32" to loosen the nut on the bolt that holds the two wires to the points.

2. lift the wires up out of the way.

3. use a magnectic screwdriver (or some other type of locking screwdriver that will clamp the screw to the screwdriver) and remove the screw that is holding the points to the distributor plate. Lift the screw out of the distributor being very careful not to drop the screw.

4. lift the points out of the distributor.

Reverse the procedure to install the new points. Now the precision part begins. The points open and close as the cam follower on one of the points follows the cam on the distributor shaft as the distributor shaft rotates. The gap between the two points when the cam follower is on a high lobe of the distributor cam is the points gap. For a 3000 3-cylinder engine, it's supposed to be .024 to .026 inches. The point gap also directly effects the timing of the ignition since the coil is going to produce the spark to the spark plugs when the points open.

This gap is adjusted by rotating the engine until the cam follower on the points is on a high lobe of the distributor cam, slightly loosening the screw that holds the points to the distributor plate, and carefully moving the point assembly closer to or farther from the distributor cam, thus opening or closing the points gap. You will be able to see a slot in the distributor plate just below the end of the points assembly. By inserting a screwdriver into that slot so that one side of the screwdriver is contacting the slot in the distributor plate and the other side of the screwdriver is contacting the points, you will be able to twist the screwdriver ever so slightly to move the points assembly back and forth in relation to the distributor cam.

When you have the gap set to the proper amount, tighten the screw that holds the points to the distributor plate and check the gap again. Very often, the gap changes when you tighten the screw. When you have it set, attach the condensor wire and ignition wire to the points and tighten the little nut that holds them to the points assembly. Re-check the gap.

At that point you're done with the points. Technically, you should then check and adjust the timing since it is effected by when the points open, but that's another post.

Good luck,

Tom in TN

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Sam Hopkins

05-25-2004 06:43:14
169.144.118.139



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 Re: Re: Replacing points on a Ford 3000 in reply to Tom in TN, 05-24-2004 15:14:20  
Tom,

Thanks for the walkthrough!

Sam



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John D

05-24-2004 12:37:07
207.5.234.30



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 Re: Replacing points on a Ford 3000 in reply to Sam Hopkins, 05-24-2004 11:21:55  
Sam
I was having the exact same problem with my NAA. I replaced my coil too, but it kept stalling. Then I was getting no spark, and replaced points and condenser. IT still stalled though. Neighboir said it was a fuel issue, so I drained the tank (it drained slowly from the fuel line), and cleaned the sed bowl screens, ran OK one day, but then stalled the next. Drained tank again, this time, flow was good. It ran OK yesterday, no stall, but still not sure. I may have messed up turning the valve on the reserve, I'm still not sure how that works, frankly. I haven't tackled the carb yet, I'm afraid of it. I'll be checking in to see what people suggest. good luck

John

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