ford 860 hydraulic fluid around gear shifter

OK I have an 860 Ford tractor. My hydraulics work when they have fluid, however fluid leaks out around the gear shifter and the hydraulics stop working after a period. The fluids run out at a very good pace. Besides the seal around the shifter is there possibly a leak causing this? I did not know if this was a common thing or not. Thanks!

(quoted from post at 21:26:29 05/22/12) OK I have an 860 Ford tractor. My hydraulics work when they have fluid, however fluid leaks out around the gear shifter and the hydraulics stop working after a period. The fluids run out at a very good pace. Besides the seal around the shifter is there possibly a leak causing this? I did not know if this was a common thing or not. Thanks!

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he attached drawing is not an 860, but it illustrates the hydraulic suction & pressure lines that do run through the belly of your tractor from pump back to the hydraulic lift area. These tubes rust & leak into the transmission........most likely your problem.

Jmor is correct and the fix was covered here probably 2 months ago in good detail. You should be able to find it in a search. Perhaps try transmission and tube

I'll agree with JMOR, most likely the pressure tube running through the transmission has rusted out. Are you seeing oil dripping out from the bottom of the bell housing at the cotter pin? It usually shows up there first. It also shows up at the three plugs on the left side of the 5 spd. transmission.

In any case, you have three options. Live with it, replace the tube, or sleeve the tube.

The tube is pressed into the transmission at three places. The problem is that no direct replacement tube is available. Some people have successfully made a replacement tube, but it takes lathe.

Putting a sleeve in the tube has been successful for a number of us, but a failure for a few too. It involves cleaning the ID of the pressure tube really well, then lathering up a 3/8" hydraulic tube with marine grade J-B weld epoxy and inserting the tube.

If you search the archives, you'll find the posts. If you need more details post back.

BTW, the suction tube (the larger tube) rarely leaks.

(quoted from post at 05:26:29 05/23/12) OK I have an 860 Ford tractor. My hydraulics work when they have fluid, however fluid leaks out around the gear shifter and the hydraulics stop working after a period. The fluids run out at a very good pace. Besides the seal around the shifter is there possibly a leak causing this? I did not know if this was a common thing or not. Thanks!

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The tube is not that bad to replace the issue is were to get a Tube,, the one Watts tractor advertizes will not work... Even if I had to sleeve the original the old one would come out and sleeved.. The issue with sleeve'n is it restricts flow as much as 50%... I had the trans apart so hit'n the rear hole was a non issue,,, I would figger on a rear split to guarantee alignment... While their I would install new seals in the PTO support if they checked loose/worn...

http://ytforums.ytmag.com/viewtopic.php?t=893860&highlight=tube

I have everything off and cleaned, going to try sleaving the tube. This is my question for anybody that has done this. Is the 10mm tube too tight of a fit? I would love to use the 10mm instead of the 3/8 due to the tighter fit, but am concerned that I will not be able to get it in without messing it up. Thank you all for your help!

When I did my 660 I ordered both the 10mm and the 3/8" tube from McMaster-Carr. Like you, I wanted a tight fit. The 10mm was too tight. I used the 3/8" and still had to drive it in.

Make sure you get the ID of the pressure tube good and clean. I used a rifle cleaning rod chucked up in my cordless drill with .410/.45 cleaning brush on it. Then I ran patches soaked in brake clean through it. I kept going until the patches came out clean. I repeated the brush and patch routine several times. I also sanded the OD of the new 3/8" tube to roughen it up. Then cleaned it well with brake clean.

I swabbed the ID of the pressure tube with JB Weld - Marine to get good coverage and did the same with the 3/8" tube and put it in. Then rodded out the ID of the 3/8" tube to make sure it was open.

I was worried (like Hobo was) about the smaller ID reducing flow. But it had no effect on my lift or my snow plow. They run at the same speed as before. So I worried about nothing.

I still feel that trying a sleeve was the right thing to do. If it fails, you can still remove the tube and replace it. So nothing in lost except a few bucks and an afternoon. Mine has been in place for a year now with no problems.

Keep us posted - good luck

Looks like I'm going back to tractor school!! I assumed (you know that's bad already) that the only way that hydraulic fluid could end up in the trans is due to the high pressure tube leaking. After reading HOBO,NC's diagnosis I began to wonder...sure enough, fluid transfer with the tractor not running! I drained the excess trans fluid from the side plug. Poured it back into the hydraulic sump. Checked this morning, opened up the trans plug and out comes about 2 quarts, with the tractor just sitting overnight. Seems I might have not had to sleeve the hydraulic pressure tube after all, dang! Now it appears a rear split is needed to repair a upper shaft seal?? Is there any other source for fluid transfer? I need to cover all the bases and get this thing fixed! Thanks, aggravated in Hart, Michigan

So you are still fighting this tater. Frustrating isn't it.

I not a big transmission expert, but think there is an upper and lower seal. Upper for the drive shaft and lower for the PTO. If I'm right, the lower seal makes more sense for the leaker. I think the upper one is above the hydraulic oil line. In either case, I thought the oil levels were about the same.

Will somebody confirm this for me?

A rear end spit isn't too bad. I had to do it on my 660 for a center housing swap. An engine hoist is your friend.

I will admit I jumped the gun wanting to find out what the deal was with a leaking tube,,, The customer was sold on it and so was I... If its leaks set'n still I am sure the seals in the PTO support (bottom shaft) are worn slap arse out,,, the upper rear bearing support has nuttin to do with it,,, its even vented to the rear housing....

I don' doubt the pressure tube could be sleeved,,, I could never find a slip fit one if someone could point me to it I would confirm it cuzz I have a pressure tube to check it again...

Rear split I use a trailer jack... With a little modification... I do plan on making a bracket to fit the right side on a 5sp as i would like to reach in and align the coupler for the pinion when its going back together...







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Finished last night and filled it up this am. When i filled up the hydraulics initialy it was in the middle of the crossed out area of my dip stick. The hydraulics were real jerky, so I ran it for about 20-30 min pretty hard with a Ford disk hooked up. Before I sleeved the tube, the hydraulics would have quit at about 10min. When I finished there was still fluid hitting the dip stick and the hydraulics were working very smooth. I did not notice the transmission fluid being up either, so I am very optimistic. I did not replace the o-rings @ the manifold and I have a small leak at the pump, if anybody remembers the 2 sizes of them please chime in, if not I will need to take it back off before I run into town. I have not gotten a shop manual yet. Next project is the radiator, there is a leak in the seam of the upper reservoir. Has anybody tried to silver solder this? I also have a new fuel cutoff valve for the bottom of my gas tank, the one on the tractor leaks. Thanks for the help!

(quoted from post at 17:41:31 05/26/12) Finished last night and filled it up this am. When i filled up the hydraulics initialy it was in the middle of the crossed out area of my dip stick. The hydraulics were real jerky, so I ran it for about 20-30 min pretty hard with a Ford disk hooked up. Before I sleeved the tube, the hydraulics would have quit at about 10min. When I finished there was still fluid hitting the dip stick and the hydraulics were working very smooth. I did not notice the transmission fluid being up either, so I am very optimistic. I did not replace the o-rings @ the manifold and I have a small leak at the pump, if anybody remembers the 2 sizes of them please chime in, if not I will need to take it back off before I run into town. I have not gotten a shop manual yet. Next project is the radiator, there is a leak in the seam of the upper reservoir. Has anybody tried to silver solder this? I also have a new fuel cutoff valve for the bottom of my gas tank, the one on the tractor leaks. Thanks for the help!

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You should get those manifold O-rings fro CNH. It is hard to get the right fit from an assortment.

Look the CNH # up and I will give ya the dash #,,, theirs nuttin speical about them from CHN but the price....

(quoted from post at 04:15:29 05/27/12)
Look the CNH # up and I will give ya the dash #,,, theirs nuttin speical about them from CHN but the price....

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*****C0NNB998A SEAL O-Ring, Manifold to Pressure Tube
Model: 860 4 CYL AG TRACTOR -- 10A03 HYDRAULIC PUMP,
***** C0NNB997A SEAL PROTECTION O-Ring, Manifold to Piston Pump
Model: 860 4 CYL AG TRACTOR -- 10A03 HYDRAULIC PUMP,
*****86629540 O-RING O-RING, -214, 70 Duro, .984" ID x .139" Thk, Manifold to Piston Pump
Model: 860 4 CYL AG TRACTOR -- 10A03 HYDRAULIC PUMP,
****** 134372 O-RING O-Ring, 1.109" ID x .139" Thk, Manifold to Piston Pump
Model: 860 4 CYL AG TRACTOR -- 10A03 HYDRAULIC PUMP,


I THOUGHT THAT THE PRESSURE TUBE TO MANIFOLD O-RING WOULD BE THE SAME SIZE AS THE MANIFOLD TO PRESSURE SIDE OF THE PUMP AND VICE VERSA ON THE RETURN.

(quoted from post at 16:40:57 05/27/12)

(quoted from post at 04:15:29 05/27/12)
Look the CNH # up and I will give ya the dash #,,, theirs nuttin speical about them from CHN but the price....

Click to expand...

*****C0NNB998A SEAL O-Ring, Manifold to Pressure Tube
Model: 860 4 CYL AG TRACTOR -- 10A03 HYDRAULIC PUMP,
***** C0NNB997A SEAL PROTECTION O-Ring, Manifold to Piston Pump
Model: 860 4 CYL AG TRACTOR -- 10A03 HYDRAULIC PUMP,
*****86629540 O-RING O-RING, -214, 70 Duro, .984" ID x .139" Thk, Manifold to Piston Pump
Model: 860 4 CYL AG TRACTOR -- 10A03 HYDRAULIC PUMP,
****** 134372 O-RING O-Ring, 1.109" ID x .139" Thk, Manifold to Piston Pump
Model: 860 4 CYL AG TRACTOR -- 10A03 HYDRAULIC PUMP,


I THOUGHT THAT THE PRESSURE TUBE TO MANIFOLD O-RING WOULD BE THE SAME SIZE AS THE MANIFOLD TO PRESSURE SIDE OF THE PUMP AND VICE VERSA ON THE RETURN.

Click to expand...

C0NNB997A SEAL PROTECTION O-Ring, Manifold to Piston Pump
(-214)

86629540 O-RING O-RING, -214
(-214)

134372 O-RING O-Ring, 1.109" ID x .139" Thk, Manifold to Piston Pump
(-216)

The other one I use @pump (-215)

All of theses are common o-rings Buna-N

Front of trans, pipe to pump, rear housing to trans use this is what you need to cover it... and a few extras would be nice to have on hand... They are found in O-ring kits most anywere,,, I have a few TISCO ORD382 kits that cover it... Google it maybe YT has it...

2)-114
1)-212
2)-214
1)-215
1)-216
2)-216
1)-216









http://cgi.ebay.fr/TRACTOR-PART-NO-...pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item231aff5a9b

You can go to http://www.marcorubber.com/sizingchart.htm after you measure the o-ring are the grove to locate the dash (-) #,,, measurements did make it a piece of cake If anyone finds the time to play its nice to know how to figure out o-ring sizing to save you some bucks,,, why pay $5.00 for a 10 cent o-ring... A small kit like this will get you out of jams fast and cheap,,, they are well worth the cost...

Yep, it"s frustrating. I"m still using the tractor, just draining and refilling after an hour or so. When I do the rear split I will probably try and remove the high pressure tube for replacement. It"s not worth taking a chance on it also leaking. Sure wish we could find a source for the correct tube, machined or whatever. This is a tough time of year to have the tractor "out of service".

Once you do the split and get the tube out. Contact TOH. He's been thinking of making the tubes. I'll bet he will work with you.

Best of luck - have a great holiday weekend.