TE 20 12v wiring diagram

I've checked the archives and can't find one. I know ya'll have one that you e-mail to others, could someone post a diagram/sketch so I can put it in my photo album? If not, my e-mail is open and I'll post it. It belongs on the website and the net.
This TE 20, has a resistor between the coil and the distributor.? It wants to crank, but will not stay running when I let off the switch. It sounds like a wire is not right, but it supposedly ran that way. The thumb/turn switch was added long ago and the oem relay was disconnected. I'll look into that later, right now I need to get it started to see were I go next.
It has set for a long time since the guys Dad passed and he wants to get it back to mowing. It sounds good when it is cranking, it starts on the first hit.
Something I found out today, the 6v solenoid has a button on it that acts as a remote starter switch. Push it and it contacts the big studs to bypass the key switch. Could be handy or deadly!!!

DON TX

try a new switch or get a jumper with clips and run from battery + to ballast resistor and see if it stays running.

"](quoted from post at 20:39:45 08/23/12) try a new switch or get a jumper with clips and run from battery + to ballast resistor and see if it stays running.

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Wouldn't that bypass the coil? The resistor is between the coil and the dizzy. Should I jump the bat+ to coil+?
DON TX

(quoted from post at 00:48:43 08/24/12)

"](quoted from post at 20:39:45 08/23/12) try a new switch or get a jumper with clips and run from battery + to ballast resistor and see if it stays running.

Click to expand...

Wouldn't that bypass the coil? The resistor is between the coil and the dizzy. Should I jump the bat+ to coil+?
DON TX

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If it is a 12 volt conversion *and* has a 6 volt coil the resistor should be between switch and the coil or the battery and the coil. I suppose it won't damage anything, but I am not a big fan of jumping things like this, I prefer to use a meter.

Were it me I would verify spark. It there is weak spark or no spark I would get out the old multimeter and verify I was getting power to the coil. And then continue troubleshooting based on that finding.

I would want to verify it was a spark problem and not a fuel problem or something else prior to starting messing with the electrical system. My to30 would try to start but die right away. I pulled the drain from the float bowl on the carb and found very little fuel flowing. The filter and line were full of rust and other debris.

do a search for Ferguson Enthusiasts of North America

go to the FENA site, select resources then electric diagrams

It has weak spark, but enuff to get it started, I think. I'm going to put a new real 12v coil on it and rewire it to what I think it should be, hopefully I can pull the diagram off the fergy website mentioned. I'm not much of a resistor or square can coil fan so I get rid off them when the opportunity arises. The coil is attached on it's side and looks like it has a clear liquid seeping out of the top wire plug, so it's got to go. The machine wants to run and I can't wait to see it happen. Then trouble shooting begins. Hydraulics, tranny, steering,...etc...Thanks to all.
DON TX

Thanks, I got it. It shows for 6 & 12v but doesn't show the resistor or for alternator hook up. Leaves a lot to be desired for the electrically challenged, like me. I think I'll go with the 12v late 8N wiring diagram. Since it has a Lucas distributor, don't know if that will change anything. Cross my fingers.
DON TX

(quoted from post at 19:34:36 08/24/12) Thanks, I got it. It shows for 6 & 12v but doesn't show the resistor or for alternator hook up. Leaves a lot to be desired for the electrically challenged, like me. I think I'll go with the 12v late 8N wiring diagram. Since it has a Lucas distributor, don't know if that will change anything. Cross my fingers.
DON TX

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If you go with the 12 volt coil and ditch the 6v it should be pretty straight forward. I just rewired mine when I replaced the generator with an alternator, I replace every wire on the machine and added a couple of things. I wish I were a better artist I would draw it up for you (even though I am far from an expert), I figured it out.

I can try and write it out but it just might confuse you..... My alternator was one of the one wire jobs. I ran a wire directly from the alternator to one side of the ammeter. On the same side of the ammeter as the alternator wire, I ran a wire down to the positive (always hot) side of the starter switch (same spot as the positive from the battery goes). From the other side of the ammeter I ran a wire to the ignition switch. From the other side of the switch, I ran a wire to the + side of the coil so that the coil gets power when the switch is "on". I think that is it for the charging and ignition circuits. I am going by memory, I am sure some of the folks on here know it better then I do. I installed a 12 volt accessory plug, both headlights, a new switch and a couple of LED warning lights at the same time so my memory of these circuits maybe off, but I think that is correct.

I was reminded, reading your post, I need to put a diode inline. I have one, all I have to do is find it. (%^)
DON TX

If it is ALL 6 volt then no resistor is needed. If it is 12v then look at the coil to determine if it is INTERNALLY resistor coil or not. If it is INTERNAL resisted 12v coil then no ballast resistor is needed. If a regular 12v coil (not internally resisted) then a ballast resistor is a good idea between coil and ingnition switch. If no ballast resistor is used on 12v then points life will be short.

IF weak spark then TEMPRORarily bypass (eleminate) ballast resistor and try that to see if spark improves. If spark inproves then coil mite be internally resisted AND or bad ballast resistor.


THose of u running a one wire alternator mite want to put something like a 40 AMP fuse on the wire that comes out of the alternator. If the one-wire alt suddenly kicks out a heavy dose of amperage then the wire or other wires could fry if they are not heavy enuf to handle the amperage. This could happen under situations of a very low charged battery or somekind of a short should a wire somewhere in the electrical system get pinched by brush or other conditions.