Lift cylinder question

Jason S.

Well-known Member
I have to get a new lift cylinder and rod for my TO20. Everything I"ve ever read says that a 9n and 2n have the same pump and lift. How come when you look them up even on this site it shows a different lift cylinder and rod for a 9n than for a TO20? Thanks for your help.
 
The 2N and 9N Fords uses the Ferguson System and thus the hydraulics will fit the TO-20. My Ferguson Parts manual lists them as the same parts.

They may stock them as two different part numbers because one is in the Agco system and one is in the CNH system
 
The manufacturers of the parts are different. If you measure the Length, you will find that they are the same. You will find that the Ferguson parts have a bit more strength than others. Not everything is the same on these hydraulics, they are similar that it all..John(UK)[email protected]
 
Thanks John, I know the one for a 9n is sold by tisco... I will go with the agco parts then...they are cheaper anyway which I thought was odd. I had honed mine and put new rings in and it still leaked...then I tried the naa piston and oring which worked great for a while but I imagine the oring has torn from being in a used cylinder. I have thought about going back to the 3 steel ring set up because if the oring cannot tolerate any dirt or grit then I would think it is not the best solution for a hydraulic system that does not have a filter. Any other thoughts on this?
 
If it is from AGCO it is the same spec as the original ones. I do prefer the Piston Ring type, they stand a lot more wear and tear. The fact that they do leak is a good thing as it helps lube all around the hydraulic system. When you say it leaks, just how much fluid loss are you getting, drips are OK as long as it isn"t a constant flow. If you fit new Rings into the old cylinder, it may leak for a while until it beds -in, but the Pump is capable of handling a leak like that, so really you won"t know if it is leaking or not. The real test is mounting a 2 bottom plow, with the oil hot and switching off the Pump and see how long it takes to drop. You have to remember when you do this you are not doing a full drop test as the link arms will be halfway when the plow is on the ground, so to get a true figure it should drop all the way down. What I would do is build the system and check just how much you are losing from the Lift Cylinder when it is under pressure with an implement of 600lbs weight. Drips are OK constant streams need to be watched and should it be running like this then use the tractor for a while to allow the Rings to bed-in and check again in a few months time. A lot of people think that there should never be an oil leak from these hydraulics which is wrong, it does serve a purpose. Regarding the grit etc, it is the Pump that you need to think about more than the Lift Cylinder, this is the critical and expensive part, what you need to do is keep the oil changed every 12 months, do it when it is hot and it will wash out all the crud that maybe in there. Check the Rubber Boot on the Gear Change and fit a new one to prevent water getting in, also you should change the Felt seal under the Draft Spring, this is always forgotten usually because it is rusted and you can"t take it apart easily, but it needs to be done. Soak the seal in oil overnight and plaster the inside of the Draft Control with molybdenum grease, keep the thread on the yoke adjuster clean and adjust it often so that it wont stick. Don"t try to force it off if it is stuck or you will bend the internal control fork. Email me direct if you need to do....John(UK)[email protected]
 
When I first got the tractor it just barely would pick up anything. I took the cover off and had a constant stream coming down from the lift cylinder. I tore it apart and cleaned the sump and took the pump apart and checked everything and replaced all the gaskets. I measured the lift cylinder and it was on the high side of the clearances but still within spec according to the ferguson manual. I put a new set of agco rings on the piston and reassembled it and it was marginally better. So I took it apart and did the naa piston swap and that cured it....for a while...after you used it for a long time it got to where it wouldn"t pick my hay rake up all the way anymore. Now it"s has gotten to where it picks up and then leaks down then back up and just keeps cycling like that and I figure the oring is shot causing a massive leak which is causing the cycling.
 
The fact that the system is cycling like you say does not mean that there actually is a problem unless you can actually see a leak from the Lift Cylinder, it can be adjustment or wear that causes this. It is a natural reaction if the system drops, it is supposed to lift again, but it can also be caused by adjustment as well. But the deciding factor is whether there is a leak from the Lift Cylinder.When you work on hydraulics unless you are fully aware what you are doing it is often better to leave them alone, especially the Pump, taking it apart does not always reveal if there are problems, by taking it apart you can make matters worse. You should always find out the location of the problem first and repair the fault, then re-test the pressure again to see if all is OK. Sometimes when this happens it means that you need to re-assemble the system and then do the tests that should have been done originally so that you can repair it. Take the r/h side cover off and operate the lever, if there is oil leaking as before from the back end of the lift cylinder, then really you only have one option and that is to replace it. A leak anywhere on the system will cause the problem you have, as it is just a pressure loss.
Take off the L/h cover and check the high pressure pipe in the front right corner when it is under pressure (try to lift a 2 bottom plow)as these can split due to shock loads in transport. If there is no real amount of oil leaking on the Cylinder then you should adjust the Control Lever Quadrant to the correct setting..John(UK)[email protected]
 

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