Dirt, shavings and water from hydraulic system

overhead

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I did my best to find an answer to this by searching, but I failed. I started to replace my PTO shaft seal this morning, and the first step was pulling the three drain plugs. The fluid that came out of the plug under the trans looked pretty good. I would guess I got about a cup of water out of the two rear plugs. Also, when I stick my finger inside the drain holes I can feel lots of dirt and grit. Should I flush the system? And if so, what is the best method for flushing it out? Often if something is working and has a bunch of gunk in it like this I will just leave it alone, but with a hydraulic system and transmission I just do not feel that is the right way to go.

Also, what type of fluid should I use when I refill? I have read GL-1 is the proper fluid, but I also read one can use 10w-30 motor oil. I live in Virginia and the tractor will be used in the mountains. Air temps range from 95 in the summer to 20 or less in the winter, those are the extremes. Thanks
 
Whatever you do, DO NOT use Diesel to try to wash out the back end as it will not drain fully and will dilute your new oil straight away. The correct way is to get the oil as hot as you can and drain it after working and leave it draining overnight or you can use Flushing oil and use it with that in it for a while and then drain it out and refill with the correct oil. GL1 oil was the original oil that was specified in the 1940's but Multi-grades are much better than that and you should consider using 10W/30 oil now, it doesn't get as thick and heavy when cold so it always lubricates no matter what, plus it has anti-wear properties which is much better.The water will be getting in through the bottom of the gear change Lever and you should fit a new Rubber Boot, it may also be getting in through the Draft Spring at the back of the seat, but all this may be seized up and need cutting off and replacing, don't try to force the adjustment or you will break or bend something. If you need help with this email me..John(UK)[email protected]
 
Thanks, John. I failed to warm up the fluid before I removed it, I guess I should have asked ahead of time. Flushing oil seems to be pretty expensive, I will have to think about what I need to do.

Right now I am trying to figure out why the PTO shaft seal I have is so much smaller (not as thick) as the one I removed.
 
I have a TO-20 apart now with the hyd. pump out and it was absolutely full of dirt that looked like black gun grease. I've cleaned it as best I can but there's still a lot of gunk in there. Would it be advisable to take the trans. top off and try to "wash" some of the gunk down?
Also, with the hyd. pump out, would there necessarily be any residual diesel fuel left if I decided to clean it that way?
 


So John, are you saying regular 10W30 engine oil is the way to go now? I am having a hard time finding 90W mineral around here. I have a TE20 that I have taken the hydrualics out of and am about ready to put back together.

Brian
 
I am surprised that you haven't seen the debate about this before, it has been going on for at least 3 years if not more. Multi-grade is better for transmissions and hydraulics, stays thinner when cold and doesn't allow as much wear to take place. The oil is a compromise between a gear oil for the Axle and Gearbox and a Hydraulic oil, the hydraulics are the most important, so you aim for one that is the best possible for that but without forgetting the Transmission and that is why you use 10W/30.We use it now in all temperature ranges all over the world....John(UK)[email protected]
 
You haven't got the correct seal. While the seal is the correct OD and ID, the width is different. The correct seal has a leather guard to protect the lip seal. It would fit OK but it would be unprotected. The leather protection goes to the outside so that grass etc wont wrap around the seal and shaft. With the oil the alternative is to use your ordinary oil but don't fill it as much, maybe 1/2 full and then you can use it safely in work, get it hot and then drain it when hot....John(UK)[email protected]
 
It is the floor of the castings that cause the problems, they are not flat and hold the oil. The manufacturer goes as far as stating in the Service manual that under no circumstances should you use diesel to wash out the housings. There is also the fact that if you do wash the interior with Diesel there will be metal to metal contact in the Pump and that will not do it any good at all. The oil should be changed at least every 12 month and you wont get deposits like you have in the Transmission and hydraulics. Use Multi-grade 10W/30 oil as that will also help with the problem. Check the rubber boots at the bottom of the Gear lever that they aren't allowing water in the system. You should also check the Draft Control Spring at the Back of the seat, as the felt seal here will be hard and worn and water will also get in there as well. Don't force the adjustment here as it will be seized and you will break or bend the linkage inside if you force it....John(UK)[email protected]
 
(quoted from post at 12:55:12 07/30/12) You haven't got the correct seal. While the seal is the correct OD and ID, the width is different. The correct seal has a leather guard to protect the lip seal. It would fit OK but it would be unprotected. The leather protection goes to the outside so that grass etc wont wrap around the seal and shaft. With the oil the alternative is to use your ordinary oil but don't fill it as much, maybe 1/2 full and then you can use it safely in work, get it hot and then drain it when hot....John(UK)[email protected]

Any idea where I might find the correct seal? It appears, at least in looking at the picture, that the seal sold on this site is the same seal I already have.
 
(quoted from post at 09:22:49 07/30/12) I am surprised that you haven't seen the debate about this before, it has been going on for at least 3 years if not more.

Sorry John, I have just got into this whole tractor thing when I aquired my non-working TE20 this spring. Just haven't had the time to go thru all the forums to find the low down on oil. thanks for your response thou.

Brian
 
I believe I found the correct seal, and oddly it was at a place that is only 60 miles from me. They don't have any weekend hours so I will have to have it shipped, but it is nice to know there is a place close by that carries some parts for the tractor.

The guy pulled the seal for me and said it is the thicker version with the metal/rubber coated seal on the outside to keep dirt, grass, etc from penetrating the seal.
 
I just got the Sparex seal in the mail today, it looks much more like the proper part designed for the application. Not just a wheel seal that happens to fit. It has the same hard outer service as the original seal which I would assume would do a much better job of keeping things from getting into the rubber part of the seal and ripping it. I will install it tomorrow.
 

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