I put wheels on my slasher

I was inspired by recent activity by others in this forum. I had an old trailer lying around, with wheels that are still good, so I decided to attach them to the back of my slasher to prevent it from dragging on the ground.

7385666198_5566629785_c.jpg


It worked OK, but the front still drags a bit. I think the wheels are too far back.

- TS
 
Looks like all you have to do is raise the the 3pth.
a bit to keep from dragging it will change the
height off the grass of course.
 
Drop the mower to the ground and then lift the Hydraulic Lever until the Mower is lifted clear to the height that you want and then place the lever stop at the front of the lever. You should now be able to mow and the tractor will alter the height just like it controls the depth with a plow. You may need to lengthen the top link a little, this will lift the mower front a bit as well. It should be pushing and pulling at the top link now and controlling it. If you have problems, email me direct and tell me what is happening...John(UK)[email protected]
 
This is what the fellow before me did to the 3 blade lawnmower... I had no faith in it, but once the mower and tractor were adjusted- and I learned what it took to operate it without scalping or scraping, I see it was worth his effort.
a73685.jpg
 
Thanks John, I thought it would be a bad idea to put too much pressure on the top link, but now I see that it could actually be beneficial! I will try what you suggest.

By the way, in case anyone is wondering, the brackets that hold the axle on are quite lightweight ones. They are only used to try it out. If I stick with this configuration I will use much sturdier ones!

- TS
 
Stephen , if you lowered the implement pin position
on the head stock you could run the mower with the
lift arms in the full down position and still raise
it when rough ground appears .
 
That setup would be fine for long straight cuts but turning the tractor without lifting the hydraulics (what lazy people like myself do)would be difficult and it places quite a load on the tractor.
The best setup is still the tried and tested method of one or two pivoting wheels mounted behind the slasher/bush hog as the tractor does not feel the great big heavy lump it is draging behind it when turning.
I made up a wheel setup for my tractor and the change was dramatic.
I would never go back to mowing without the wheel setup, it is just that good.
Another advantage is lower fuel consumption which helps in these more difficult times.
PS. Where are your stabiliser bars to prevent the slasher/hog hitting the rear wheels on your turns?
Here is my setup.
Regards Brad
8485.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 15:22:12 06/18/12) That setup would be fine for long straight cuts but turning the tractor without lifting the hydraulics (what lazy people like myself do)would be difficult and it places quite a load on the tractor.

Ah, I see what you mean. OK, thanks. I will have to think more about that.

PS. Where are your stabiliser bars to prevent the slasher/hog hitting the rear wheels on your turns?

I didn't have them connected for this trial, but I usually use them.

- TS
 
Steven yes lenghtening the top link will lower
the front but will also increase the forward tilt
of the deck . Lowering the position of the hitch
pins will preserve the horizontal aspect of the
mower at the lowest position of the arms . Thus as
you use the slasher the tractor can run the prop
shaft and the arms can stay in the unlifted
position , this might also relieve some wear on
the pump and load on the engine.This will also
give you much greater lift at the front should you
need to cut really tall hard brush or clear an
obstacle.
 
(quoted from post at 01:40:52 06/18/12) You may need to lengthen the top link a little

I didn't have much time this weekend, but I tried lengthening the top link by a notch and took it for a quick spin. It worked nicely, the front no longer drags too much on the ground!

(When I get around to doing some painting I'll be sure to use some yellow!)

- TS
 

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