Installed a Jockey wheel on my Brush/Bush hog/Slasher

Brad V

Member
I use a Tea 20 tractor to cut the grass on my acreage and purchased some time back a 4 foot slasher/bush hog. This piece of equipment did not come with a Jockey wheel on the back and had chains on it to support the head stock when lifting.
It worked well but you could feel when driving the tractor that it was dragging a big heavy lump behind it and was very hard to turn with the slasher/bush hog unless it was lifted up a little for the turns as you really should do.
I was lazy and did not bother lifting when turning and you could really feel the weight and the tractor working harder when turning.
This set up still worked well but I felt the the tractor was using far too much fuel.
I then decided to follow the advice of John (UK) re setting up the cutter to use the Hydraulics of the tractor and removed the chains and made up some steel bars to make the head stock fixed like the older models used to be.
I purchased a 400mm solid segmented wheel for the rear and used some scrap metal square tube to mount the wheel on.
I adjusted the top link so that the cutter was lower at the front and higher at the rear and then I went out for a test run.
I filled up the tractor with 5 litres of fuel and off I went cutting.
The difference was a quantum leap, the tractor was so easy to turn and it just cut like a dream (It just felt so different and easy to use like my Kubota bx2230).
On the turns I don't have to lift the rear and there is no drop in revs as I turn (It does not seem to bother the tractor).
In relation to fuel economy I was shocked as it kept going and going and I was constantly waiting for it to run out of fuel. In the end I cut a paddock which previously I used to use 15-18 Litres of fuel with just 5 Litres.
I should say that my paddocks are flat and without the wheel I used to use 3rd gear to do the cutting but with the wheel and fixed headstock I am using 4th gear and the tractor does not seem to mind this at all.
While many would say 4th is the wrong gear to be cutting in the tractor is not reving very high and the ground speed I am getting is about as fast as my Husqvarna ride on mower does flat out.
Also of note is that I adjusted my Governor as it was not set up correctly and when cutting in the past the tractor was reving well past the correct 2000-2200 rpm limit and this would be a significant factor in the fuel consumption.
It is just that the rear wheel makes the tractor not notice that it is dragging a large heavy object behind it.
With the Governor adjusted it now does not rev high when cutting and it is so easy to drive.
Regards Brad
 
(quoted from post at 19:11:18 05/30/12) Thanks for the info. I will consider putting a wheel on my slasher.
Do you have any photos of it?

- TS
My farm is 100km from home and I will be going out there on the week-end and will take photos and post them next week.
The rear wheel on the slasher is worthy of consideration as it changes the total feel of the machine, its performance and fuel useage. It also makes it easier on the biceps as turning is now so easy as the tractor does not seem to notice the large lump it is pulling along.
Regards Brad
 
(quoted from post at 17:27:39 05/30/12) I use a Tea 20 tractor to cut the grass on my acreage and purchased some time back a 4 foot slasher/bush hog. This piece of equipment did not come with a Jockey wheel on the back and had chains on it to support the head stock when lifting.
It worked well but you could feel when driving the tractor that it was dragging a big heavy lump behind it and was very hard to turn with the slasher/bush hog unless it was lifted up a little for the turns as you really should do.
I was lazy and did not bother lifting when turning and you could really feel the weight and the tractor working harder when turning.
This set up still worked well but I felt the the tractor was using far too much fuel.
I then decided to follow the advice of John (UK) re setting up the cutter to use the Hydraulics of the tractor and removed the chains and made up some steel bars to make the head stock fixed like the older models used to be.
I purchased a 400mm solid segmented wheel for the rear and used some scrap metal square tube to mount the wheel on.
I adjusted the top link so that the cutter was lower at the front and higher at the rear and then I went out for a test run.
I filled up the tractor with 5 litres of fuel and off I went cutting.
The difference was a quantum leap, the tractor was so easy to turn and it just cut like a dream (It just felt so different and easy to use like my Kubota bx2230).
On the turns I don't have to lift the rear and there is no drop in revs as I turn (It does not seem to bother the tractor).
In relation to fuel economy I was shocked as it kept going and going and I was constantly waiting for it to run out of fuel. In the end I cut a paddock which previously I used to use 15-18 Litres of fuel with just 5 Litres.
I should say that my paddocks are flat and without the wheel I used to use 3rd gear to do the cutting but with the wheel and fixed headstock I am using 4th gear and the tractor does not seem to mind this at all.
While many would say 4th is the wrong gear to be cutting in the tractor is not reving very high and the ground speed I am getting is about as fast as my Husqvarna ride on mower does flat out.
Also of note is that I adjusted my Governor as it was not set up correctly and when cutting in the past the tractor was reving well past the correct 2000-2200 rpm limit and this would be a significant factor in the fuel consumption.
It is just that the rear wheel makes the tractor not notice that it is dragging a large heavy object behind it.
With the Governor adjusted it now does not rev high when cutting and it is so easy to drive.
Regards Brad
img]https://www.aljezurfarm.com/images/New%20Folder/new%20wheels.jpg[/img]
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this looks like a good idea. can use empty freon or old lp tanks
 
The correct PTO speed for your mower is 540rpm on the PTO and that is obtained by using 3/4 throttle on the tractor providing the Governor is set correctly and the maximum engine speed is limited to 2200rpm no load speed. Running at the correct PTO speed has a great influence on fuel consumption. I would definitely not advise running in 4th Gear under any circumstances other than on a road. You could finish up with the Mower around the back of your neck should it strike anything, this has happened before and the driver rarely lives to tell the tale. I realize that if it will cut in 4th gear then you don't have a lot of grass on the paddock, but it is just traveling far too fast and it is positively dangerous...John(UK)[email protected]
 
Hi John
Thank you for your valuable input and concern about using 4th gear for cutting and the associated dangers.
Prior to fitting the wheel on my slasher and adjusting the Governor I used 3rd gear to cut with and my revs were quite high since the Governor was not set up correctly.
Since the adjustment and wheel fitting I found that the tractor was able to cut easily in 4th gear but under no circumstances am I travelling quickly.
My grass was approximately 1 foot long and the tractor is not reving very high, infact I think that I may only have been using 1/3 throttle and it works very well. This week-end I will try another section and connect my Tach/Dwell meter to see exactly how many revs I am using.
The fact that approx 1500rpm's =540 PTO revs obviously indicates that I am not anywhere near 540 when I am using my slasher but it seems to work very well and is quite safe as I repeat I am not travelling very quickly.
My paddocks are flat and grassed only with no hidden tree stumps/holes etc so it is quite safe.
Since my Pto rpm's at approx 1/3 throttle are less than the usual 540 is there any chance that I may damage the tractor by using such low revs in top gear?
Once again thanks for your safety concerns.
As a side issue I set up the slasher as per your instructions in a Email that you kindly sent me some time back and when I was using the tractor as mentioned it was a quantum change, so much so that my wife who has no interest in anything mechanical particularly tractors told me later that "I was watching you cut and the tractor looked like it was gliding over the grass. It just looked different to how you used to do it".
Many Thanks
Regards Brad
 
Brad, I am glad to hear that the forward speed is not very high at all, but I just wonder how it is managing to make a good cut when running as slowly as you say. When a mower is only running slowly it tends to shave the end of the grass stalks and they dry out with the sun and then everything looks very white and not at all nice and green like we usually like to see it.
Regarding the PTO speed, it shouldn't harm the tractor although the mower may not like it too much. If there is any amount of grass to be cut, the blades will be striking the grass and swinging on their pivots all the time instead of being held more or less rigid by centrifugal force, this will of course depend on how thick the grass being cut actually is.
Glad to hear that you found the mower much easier to handle after setting it up as I suggested, you wife knows a good thing when she sees it...lol Perhaps you could try the mower running at 3/4 throttle 3rd gear and see what difference it makes, although if it is a sparse growth it wont take much power to cut, it is just the speed of the blades that may make a difference to the quality of cut and they should be kept as sharp as possible all the time. Could you let me know how it works out please. Would you email me direct and then I will see it...John(UK)[email protected]
 
Attached are photos of the slasher/bush hog wheel I installed using scrap metal I had. I can adjust the height of the slasher by moving the spacers on the vertical swivel shaft up or below the swivel point.
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