Oil Pressure? Long Post

1952 TO 30. Been in the family since it was new. Was rebuilt back in the 1960's. Last 30 years it has been used for mowing, some dirt work, and finish cut mowing. Started using it to power a brush hog (5 ft) about 3 years ago. Noticed this year that after working it for a couple of hours (For brush hogging) the oil pressure drops from the 20lbs that it has held for years steadily to 0 lbs. When I noticed it was at 0 I went back to the garage and parked it thinking I had destroyed something. Went out after it had cooled off to check some things on it. Checked fluid levels oil ok coolant took about 1/2 gallon. Fired it up and it held the 20 lb pressure again.
Am I working it to hard and over heating everything? The area I brush hog requires me to run in 1st gear and basicily full throttle.
Since it has been 40 plus years since a rebuild is it time for a tear down? Tractor runs great untill I use it hard. Every once in a while number 2 or 3 plug fouls. I clean it up and runs great for a number of months.
Other than brush hogging the tractor is used a couple of times a week for 2 to 3 hours each time.
docgj

Try to get the summer out of it before the rebuild
Sounds like the valves need work to thinking that's
whats fouling your plugs.

Check the compression and this will tell if rings are bad. Is 2 and 3 fouled with oil? Also main bearing may be worn is the reason for low oil pressure.

You may get by with plug extenders sold at napa etc. They keep the oil from fouling the plug.A heavier oil may hold more pressure. Check front of radiator for debree from mowing. Your head could need a re-torque.

I don't like airlplanes, so I don't do things airplane people do... like look at gauges. I had a half dozen AC's for years, none had gauges worth paying attention to, some had a temp guage so far away you needed binoculars to see it. I go by Mr Magoo rules. Does it smell, sound and feel OK? If so, it is OK. Speaking of AC's, now and then the oil line at the rear main- and corny guage, had to be 'primed' with a squirt can. Yours might be clogged with crud. Blow it out with 40-50 lb.s of air....

There are several possibilities for your oil pressure situation; worn main and rod bearing and/or weak oil pump and /or stuck partially open pressure relief valve in the lube oil pump. Depending on what was done with the overhaul almost 50 years ago, I"d suspect all of them. Do not continue to run this way as you may damage the crank journals.
The physics of the problem is with cold oil, the oil viscosity is high nd the resistance to flow causes the oil pump to increase pressure of the lube oil. As the oil warms up the the viscosity drops and due to the more open bearing clearances and/or worn pump and/or partially stuck open relief valve, the pump sees increased flow area and the oil pressure drops.
In my opinion, the oil pump on the Continental Z engines is pretty lame and prone to wear.
It sounds like since you"re fouling plugs, you may have some loss of oil control on a few cylinders. If you want to keep using this machine I"d advise you to check the compression on a warm engine with the throttle fll open. If your compression is down, consider a full overhaul. It"s probabaly overdue! To minimize any further damage to the lower end, at least make that a priority before the crank is damaged. You can run a while with lower compression and maybe limp along before doing the cylinders and head. Your $"s, your choice.

In good order the oil pressure should never be less than 15psi and normal working pressure would be 20 - 30psi at 2200 which is full throttle. The oil is SAE30 above 50 deg F and SAE20 below.
The correct PTO speed for this tractor is 1500rpm which is 3/4 throttle, the PTO should not be run faster than that. If you think that you are working it too hard then you are...so raise the height of cut to about 3 or 4" at the front (or higher if it is thick or wet) and higher than that at the back, this will allow the cut crop to be thrown out quickly and will not be carried around and around as it all absorbs power. KEEP THE BLADES SHARP AT ALL TIMES if they touch the ground then the edge has gone off straight away. Make sure that the Radiator is washed out regularly, like everyday if it is dusty as the grass will get trapped in the radiator. Wash it out from the engine side to the front. Change the oil in the Air Cleaner every day when it is dusty, more often than that if there is a lot of dust and grass blowing around. If you would like the information about using a Bush-Hog with a Ferguson, email me and I will send it to you...John(UK)[email protected]

Thanks to all. Oil pressure has stayed at 20 lbs for 20 plus years. Though we never worked it as hard as brush hogging does. Yes I did blow out the cooling fins ou radiator from back side. Yes the plugs are fouled from oil. What do the plug extenders do? Didn't know about the 3/4 throttle thing. THANKS JOHN! The only reason I was using full throtle was because of the steep grade on part of the pasture. I assuming the engine is very tired and not putting out anywhere near the 30 HP rating. Probably why I have to use full throttle. That was my thoughts to get it through the summer. My wifes cousins(Farm) love to work/restore old tractors. So fall might be a better time for them. Thinking of talking to them.

docgj

[i:585f4bfc8d]"The only reason I was using full throtle was because of the steep grade on part of the pasture."[/i:585f4bfc8d]

With or without a slasher/brushhog on the back, a Fergy in 1st gear, full throttle should climb trees! If I can't get up a slope in 3rd or 4th gear at half throttle, the slope is too steep and dangerous for a Fergy!

It sounds like either quite a few of your Fergy horses have died; you are grossly overloading the slasher/brushhog; or you are running a slasher/brushhog that is too large for the tractor?

The plug extender is a round metal object that has threads just like the sparkplug on one end. You screw it into the block and then screw the sparkplug into the other end which is female. It keeps the oil from fouling your plug.My dad had an old Avery and had excessive blowby which put it running on 2 cylinders, I'd have to stop and clean until i installed those.Just take a plug to Napa and match the threads.

This thread reminds me of checking out the TE 20 an archery range near me asked, an identical question on this forum- a year ago? When I looked it over, it was out of time a bit, the main jet of the carb was way out, and for what they were cutting, the slopes they had to mow- first gear was a safe and reasonable way to do it. It actually cut rather good by the time everyone involved figured things out.
Personally, on anything, I open up the throttle and slowly turn the carb screws and dist cap until I hear what I think is the best I will get out of it. Then I stay in 1 when in tough or hazardous jobs, 2nd if the tractor wants to, in lighter jobs. 3rd is going home on my land, 4th is on the paved road. Even then I usually lose my hat, so bushogging 2 inch sapplings and koodzo vines in 4th must feel like a sinester amusment park ride!! Or a mechanical bull without the padded floor matts????
As for the oil pressure again- when was the last time it was changed? Is it going thru a quart every few jobs during the year? And a quart a day on your mowing adventures? I won't lose sleep over it, but save up for a proper overhaul- not a rebuild, but all new fluids, tune up parts, carb kit- and an extra gearhead brain to help fine tune this thing for next year.

The bush hog is 5 ft. Oil was changed at the end of spring. Maybe 25 hrs on this oil change.
Yes I'm sure the slopes I'm using the fergie on are steeper than I should be on. I have been around and on this tractor since I was able to walk and am used to the controls well enough to make it go where I need it to. I know that sometimes the places I put it most people would not attempt.
docgj

If the slopes are as steep as you seem to be saying, then you should never lift the Hog more that a few inches or you will upset the center of gravity. You can also change the rear wheels to the opposite sides to widen the track or if you don't want to widen it as much, then change the Dish setting on the Rims. If you widen the track you won't easily turn the tractor over as it will slide first, but it will be a controlled slide, but keep the Mower on the Ground if it does ever slide. We used this setting for mowing on reservoir banks. I know that it will flatten some grass with the wide track but you may find that it doesn't leave very much as the mower will suck the grass up into the blades and cut it off. There is no need to widen the front axle, just the Rear Wheels...John(UK)[email protected]

John,

I tried your 3/4 throttle suggestion this weekend on the second pasture. Just about the same terrain as the other pasture. Fergy maintained the 20 lb oil pressure for the 4 hours it took me to brush hog it. THANKS!
The air temp was about 20 degrees cooler than the previous attempt. Do you think the higher temp (90 degrees) contributed to the oil pressure drop?
docgj