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Vaaljapie

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Howdy folks

I've just stumbled across this site, and am enjoying going through the various threads and picking up on the wealth of information that some of you have tucked away in your heads.

I recently bought a 1955 TED 20 (S/N 446650), and intend to restore it as and when money becomes available.

It is in running condition (only just), but is also giving me more grey hairs than I care to have right now.

A few weeks back I mowed my field, and the tractor performed ok, but a few days back I started it again, and it barely has the power to pull the mower along the ground, let alone drive the PTO as well.

I saw a thread on timing, where the starter was removed to get the timing marks on the flywheel lined up... am I correct in thinking that this will apply to my model as well... there are no visible marks on the crankshaft pulley or the crankcase.

Thanks in advance for all the help I'll be requesting :D

Regards Derek

Edit: trying to include pic of tractor
 
If it performed OK, you touched nothing and now has no power, I seriously doubt it is a timing problem.

What exactly is it doing? Is it running smooth or missing? Hard to start? Need more information.

Yes, the timing marks are on your flywheel.

TimingMarks.jpg


At TDC No 1 cylinder you should be able to slip a 1/4" rod through the hole in the block under the starter motor and it will align with a corresponding hole in the fly wheel.

Your TED20 has a low combustion ratio engine designed to run on TVO or power kerosene. It should have a two compartment fuel tank.

Bob in Oz
 
Hi Bob,

Tractor starts with a bit of difficulty, and runs on the rough side. It seems to lack power when I need it (pulling the mower / dragging small trees etc.). I'm wondering if it isn't maybe fuel starvation... been looking at it again and noticed that the in-line filter is empty, although the tank has some gas in it. It's raining here at the moment, so I'll be checking again when things dry out. I also noticed that the distributor retaining bolt was a bit loose, so suspect that the time may be out

I had a look under the starter but couldn't find a 1/4" hole for the locating dowel / rod to fit. I guess I'll have to pull the starter and do a manual line-up to check the time.

As it starts taking load the engine just starts to die, and will stop altogether if I don't stand on the clutch.

I'm confident that I'll get it sorted out as soon as I can work on it again, but it's always nice to have input / advise from someone else who has already been down that road.

Regards Derek
Japie.jpg
 
Sounds like a lack of fuel problem. As I learned with my TO30, pull the fuel tank and clean the rust and crap from inside. Remove the fuel valve / bowl assembly and plug the hole. I put about 2 cups of small stone chips (1/2") and Dawn soap and water in the tank. Keep shaking around until the water becomes clear. My baffles were loose so a local radiator shop removed the fill neck and removed the plates by slowly heating and rolling them up on needle nose pliers so he could pull them out. The screen on the fuel valve was missing so I replaced the entire valve. The filter screen in the carb was clogged as well so I replaced that with a 45 deg. fitting and now use an external filter so I can see when dirty and it's real easy to replace. All is working great now.
 
Derek

I'm sure the timing hole will be there - you can see a 1/4 inch rod thru the hole in this photo.

TimingMarks-1.jpg


If the fuel bowl is not full, you have a fuel blockage in the fuel stop cocks. The tanks tend to rust out and fine rust particles clog the input tubes.

I can't quite remember what the fuel cocks look like on a TED20, but distant memory seems to recall two fuel cocks joined by a "Y" or "U" shaped fitting? You should have a two compartment fuel tank, the small tank is for petrol, larger tank is for power kerosene.

I'd be inclined to drain the fuel tank and shine a torch inside - my guess you will find rust particles on the bottom. Take off the fuel cocks and give them a good clean, including poking a fine wire down the inlet pipes.

Another check would be to turn on the fuel at the tank, then open the drain cock in the bottom of the Zenith carby fuel bowl. The fuel should run out freely in a steady stream - if it dribbles out, you have a fuel blockage.

You can see the "T" shaped fuel drain cock partially obscured at the extreme lower left of this photo:

DSCN0545Small.jpg


If you find and clear a fuel blockage, you may need to take the bowl off the carby and clean that out. They tend to accumulate crud in the bottom.

Try that and post the results here.

Bob in Oz
'53 TEA20
 
Hello Derek,
I also have TED20, and I have overcome a lot of problems over the past 3 years to now have a machine that runs relatively well.

The lack of power you describe probably means that not all plugs are firing. At times I have had my tractor running on just 2 (or even 1!) cylinders, and it is impossible to do any real work with that situation.

As others have said, it does seem to be a fuel problem. Once you have your fuel flowing well, your sparks should fire a lot more successfully.

With your loose distributor, try rotating it until number 1 connection is approximately at the 10 o'clock position (when looking towards it from the side of the motor). That will be pretty close to where it should be.

- TS
 
Just a reminder that when you time a 4 stroke engine, the #1 cylinder must be on the compression stroke. The fywheel will pass the timing mark with #1 on the compression stroke every other revolution of the crank shaft.
 
Yes Jerry, that is embarassingly possible.

Rather than take out No 1 spark plug and put a finger over the spark plug hole, I turn the engine until the rotor is coming up to the No 1 position on the distributor cap, which appears to be around 10 o'clock on the distributor, as TS suggested.

Bob
 
very hard for the average person with their finger over spark plug hole to know if it is the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke. the way i learned to tell is a shop towel stuffed into the hole and then it will POP on the compression stroke completely out of the hole. you do not have to even see the shop towel just listen for a loud POP. i then look at the timing mark and put it on tdc.
 
Guys, thanks for all the advice... just as soon as I get the opportunity I'll start checking everything that's been mentioned here.

As I said yesterday, between the rain, overtime at work and some house renovation as well, time is a little in short supply.

In the meantime, my field is becoming a veritable bushveld hunting ground. Guess I'll have to venture out there with the shotgun riding on the left fender when I eventually get it going :lol:

Will report back as soon as I get something sorted.
 
You say you have a TED, what fuel are you using in this engine...you may have the wrong type and that would cause your problems. If it ran OK a few days ago then the timing will not have changed unless someone has done it. It is more likely to be electrical or Carburation. I am not saying that the timing does not want re-setting but it will not alter on its own. If you want the timing information and how to re-set the Carburetor, email me and I will send it to you. Let me know what country you are in so I will know about the fuel available and tell me what fuel you are [email protected]
 

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