TEA 20 trouble and questions

tractor has no power, stalls on hills and dies, also when running the top of the carb is cold to the touch, I think it is getting to much gas, plugs where wet when pulled, please can someone point me the right direction to fix this.
this is 52 model gas engine

thanks

Evaporation of fuel will lower the temperture in the carb and that"s normal. In fact under certain conditions (Ambient temps below 50F and high humidity), you may see frost on the carb.
You say the plugs are wet. Are they black and oily looking? If so the rings hae lost oil control. This can because by wear or lack of use.
If they are wet with fuel than the ignition system may be misfiring.
First check for spark quality. Pull a plug wire off the spark plug and put a paper clip in the boot so that it touches the metal terminal clamp. Hold it near a good ground and try to start the tractor. You should have a FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK, the color of lightning. if you don"tthen you need to work on the primary ignition circuit. It could be worn, misadjusted, burne,d oily or corroded points. it could be a bad key switch ro dirty connections or damaged wires, etc.
If you have the correct spark, then check the timing and the advance mechanism.If they are OK, Move to the fuel system, Make sure the settings on the carb are near the recommended valuesin your manual. make sure the fuel delivery is OK byopening the tank valve and holding a container beneath the carb, remove the plug from the carb bottom. Fuel should CONTINUOUSLY pour out of the drain. If it just dribbles or is intermittent, check the fuel delivery system from the Tank to the carb. Make sure the vent in the fuel tank cap is not plugged.

DO these checks sytematically and you"ll isolate the problem and you"ll be able to fix it. Don"t start throwing parts at it. Do the diagnosis first.
Good Luck.

If you suspect too much fuel, you will be able to smell unburnt gas when it is running. Just as a trial, screw the main Jet adjuster in fully BUT Gently and then unscrew it out one turn and see if it runs any better then if if doesn't then it isn't a fuel problem, it will most likely be ignition which could also cause the problems you have. You will need to reset the Carburettor but this will depend on the type that is fitted to your engine.If the points have a spike or a hole on them, then replace the Condenser.
You should make sure that the points are set correctly to .015" and the plugs should be Champion L86C set to .030", this engine is particular about the correct plugs, don't fit one because it looks like the one you need. If you are getting a lot of noise from the Valve gear it could be that the lash needs setting as everything is worn.
If you need the info to set the ignition, the Carburetor and the valves, just email me and I will send it out to [email protected]

old crummy gas might be the problem, drain it and dump in some fresh stuff

the proplem is to much gas, gas runs out of the carb where the air intake is, the float isn't sticking, i pulled the carb and checked everything, same thing happened when I put it back on

Since you have fuel running into the air intake there are several posible causes for that.

Over choking on start up can cause it.

Since the fuel flow is limited by the float valve, you may also have a problem with the float valve. Either the floats are leaking causing the floats to sink and thus hold open the float valve or the float valve is not adjusted properly. The floats can also hang up on the side of the bowl and not alow the valve to close. A sharp rap with a wooden block can be a temporary fix.

Have you checked the spark?

yes, I checked everything from your first post

the carb is the zenith 24T-2

And what did you find?

I have good spark, just to double check, cylnders is 1234 from front, and on the dist. the wires go 1342 counterclock wise with 1 being about the 10oclock position, now it is backfiring really loud thru the exhaust when trying to start, the float was sticking I think I have fixed it now. It might be all the gas trying to burn off with the back firing, not sure, any help would be great.

Thanks

cylnders is 1234 from front, and on the dist. the wires go 1342 counterclock wise with 1 being about the 10oclock

Click to expand...

Correct.

any help, would be be great, stiill doesn't want to start, have spark, good fuel, I'm lost now.

If you have good spark and fuel, I"d suspect your timing. Statically time the machine, remembering that #1 must be on the compression stroke for timing. If you don"t know how to do that, get back here.

how do I check the timing?

Do you have a service manual or experience in setting ignition timing on four stroke engines?

Pull the #1 plug( pulling all the plugs makes it easier on the starter) and place your thumb over the spark plug hole. Crank the engine over until you feel pressure on yourr thumb. You are now on the compression stroke on #1 cylinder. Line up the timing marks by rotating the engine by hand. Pull the cap of the distributor. The rotor should be point at the #1 plug wire terminal in the cap. Put the cap back on, loosen the distributor, turn on the key, and place a paper clip or a wire #1 spark plug boot and hold it near a good ground.Slowly rotate the distributor ack and forth in small increments until you hear the spark snap. At that point you are statically timed. make sure that you have it right and then tightenn down the distributor without moving it. Hook up the plugs and try a start.

Pull the #1 plug( pulling all the plugs makes it easier on the starter) and place your thumb over the spark plug hole. Crank the engine over until you feel pressure on yourr thumb. You are now on the compression stroke on #1 cylinder. Line up the timing marks by rotating the engine by hand. Pull the cap of the distributor. The rotor should be point at the #1 plug wire terminal in the cap. Put the cap back on, loosen the distributor, turn on the key, and place a paper clip or a wire #1 spark plug boot and hold it near a good ground.Slowly rotate the distributor ack and forth in small increments until you hear the spark snap. At that point you are statically timed. make sure that you have it right and then tightenn down the distributor without moving it. Hook up the plugs and try a start.

I don't have the hand crank to turn over motor by hand, where can I get one.
have been working on it, it wants to start, it has spark and gas, still backfiring thru exhaust, I gues I need to get the timing set, it that what it sounds like the problem is, the timing? Thanks

The timing marks are on the flywheel, inside where the starter motor installs.



When you are at TDC (Top Dead Center) on No 1 cylinder, a 1/4" rod pushed through the hole under the starter will align with a corresponding hole in the flywheel.

Ignition timing is set at 1 degree before TDC (Top Dead Center).



At TDC on No 1 cylinder, the distributor rotor should be around the 10 o'clock position.



If you don't have a starting crank handle, put the transmission into 4th gear, IGNITION OFF and slowly move the tractor forwards or backwards. May help if you remove the spark plugs.

If it idles OK but backfires at higher RPM, the distributor governor weights may be sciezed ... sceized .... stuck (never could spell that word correctly!)

Bob in Oz
'53 TEA20

That"s what I think it is. If you can get a wrench on the crankshaft pulley nut you might be able to turn it by hand. Some times you can "inch bug" the starter and get pretty close.

ok, went out this morning to work on it, put battery back in after charging it, all I get now is a clicking sound when turning the key, checked all connections, even redid some, what is this problem now, I'm about at my wits end over this. Thanks. clicking is coming from the starter relay solinoid.

I think it is the relay clicking