Need some advice..sorry in advance for the long post!

so i have decided i want a to 20 or to 30 and have been looking for some time..im at the crossroads..go with something restored or tackle the restoration myself. here is my question..first, i have found very few restored 20's or 30's..any suggestions on where to find one that is properly done? Second, what should i expect to pay for a properly restored tractor?

what should i expect to pay for a tractor in fair condition that is a good candidate for restoration and what problems should i look for and avoid...any help will be appreciated...thanks!!

Hello,

I don't know where to find restored Fergy's but these are some of the people who might.

http://www.fergusonenthusiasts.com/default.htm

Wheather to buy or restore depends on a lot of factors such as time and ability. It ain't easy rebuilding old machinery. Taking out one bolt on a 60 year old gearbox can end up taking you hours.

It's much easier to find say a "trailer queen" Ford 8N.

Depending on where you are it can be mighty scarce pickings. I live in Utah and had to drive to Missouri to get my TO20. $1500 and the only major defect was the steering box.

There is one pretty nice Fergy on eBay that has been on there for months. It started at about 12K and last time I looked he was down to about $7500 or so.

$3000 to $4000 can get you an awful nice tractor.

DB

give me a call i might have what you are looking for 920-373-
6336

Cost seem to vary greatly depending on area and what you ultimately want. My goal was a 'tidy' working tractor, but not necessarily showroom quality. It took me three months to find my TEA20.

I did NOT consider anything that wasn't running, if I couldn't drive it on the trailer I didn't look at it. (most listed were 200 to 300 miles away) I didn't have the knowledge to evaluate non runners.

I ended up with a tractor with a sticky clutch - paid $1200 - spent $500 on new clutch, rebuilding transmission (gear chipped), paint and sandpaper and purchasing a 'Dearborn Dozer' for snow removal. Also built a transport box. I am having fun

Motion creates opportunity, keep looking and the tractor for you will turn up. When it does, post pictures.

Around here prices for TO-30s on Craigslist seem to run $1500-$3000 for functional machines, depending on general condition and tires. Non-runners are less, but may be quite restorable if you enjoy the work. I got lucky and found one, all original with good sheet metal...just a victim of neglect and dis-use. Watch out for the cracked block issue, do a compression check, etc.
You can rack up a lot of expenses restoring one, so you might be better off paying up front for one already in great condition if you can find it.
Personally, I love working on these machines...they are simple enough even a cave man (like me) can fix 'em...with the help of the great folks on this forum! God luck.
John in NW Arkansas

I have a very nice TO-30 for sale. I am in Virginia. It isn't "restored," but close, excellent condition all around. If you have interest, email me at towerhill33 at yahoo dot com, and we can discuss. I will sell for much less than I have in it. I have another with a loader, tractor not as nice, but good, also would sell. Both shedded and well maintained.

One restores old machinery for the love of it, not an investment. I have around Aus$7,000 invested in my 1953 Ferguson TEA20, which probably has a top market value here around Aus$4,000.

I intentionally do not keep check of what I spend on my E Type/XKE Jaguar. I probably have around Aus$70,000 plus invested, for a market value of perhaps Aus$50,000 to Aus$60,000 - no real idea of either and don't really care.

I'm very wary of old machines advertised for sale as "restored". A paint job can hide many ills!!!

You really can not restore to a price, only to the restoration standard you want to achieve. It can be like burning $100 bills but a smart restorer will find best part sources and cost cutting solutions. There is a lot of satisfaction and pride in owning a restored machine.

Thanks guys for all the replies...i have the space to do a restore and have what i think is a decent amount of mechanical know-how...where im a bit gun shy is not really knowing enough about the tractor to spot a good value...i will keep the search and when i find "the one" i will be sure to post..thanks for taking the time to post and if you have any other suggestions please keep them coming.

Chris

Being part of the old British Empire, I'm probably a bit biased but I feel the UK built TEA20 with Standard engine, is a safer and lower cost proposition than the US built TO series. Block carcking in the Continental engine seems a relatively common occurrance. In 25 years playing with TEA20s, it is only this week (on this forum) that I read of a Standard engine having a cracked block and head.

Also, not sure of parts prices for the Continental engine, but a full engine overhaul kit - sleeves, pistons, rings, all bearings and gaskets etc - for the Standard engine is under US$400. Anyone with basic mechanical knowledge, a few tools [u:08f307235b]and a good workshop manual[/u:08f307235b] can easily overhaul a Standard engine. For less than US$1,000, you could end up with a new specification Standard engine, reconditioned engine, head and all accessories.

Not much ever goes wrong with the Ferguson transmission or steering, aside from a few leaking seals etc which are trelatively easy to replace.

Unless you are a panel beater, good tin ware should be a priority when buying a tractor for restoration. Rear guards are cheap but bonnet (hood) restoration can be expensive - and it really spoils a restoration if the tin ware is not up to standard.

Here is my money pit.........





But all that sweat and money gets totally forgotten when I take it out for a weekend cruise!! :lol: :lol:

Chris, I agree with Bob, regarding the TEAs, however I believe it depends alot where you are located, here in Ontario there are alot of bone yards(tractors) and it seems fairly easy to find parts for the TEAs....However if you are in the USA, you may find it somewhat difficult to find parts for the TEA....i have found parts in the past for US owners and shipped them south....As in most walks of life, you need to consider the product you are buying as well as the service available.....One of my suppliers tells a story of driving 8 hours to pick up a restored IH, it was in a apple orchard with a two diameter tree growing up thru the steering wheel!!...Good Luck...Alex...51 and 52 TEAs

Alex. Used Ferguson parts are very easy to find here in Australia as well. I don't know how many Fergys came here but in the early 1950s a farmers choise was limited: a Ferguson; Chamberlain (Australian made, taken over by JD); Ferguson; an old Farmall; a Ferguson ... and did I mention, a Ferguson?

I believe my TEA20 came off a sugar cane farm in the Bundaberg region of Queensland, before I bought it in 1987. It had very little work in it's early life, probably only pulling sugar cane bins.

And the connection between my Jaguar and my Fergy? The Jag was built in Coventry, not far from the Standard Motor Co that built the Ferguson tractors. Pre WWII Jaguars were built by the Standard Sidecar Co, or "SS" a name that became politically unacceptable after the war, hence the name change to Jaguar. And the Jag XK engine - developed from the pre war Standard engine!

Triumph sports cars were also built by Standard and have an engine almost identical to the TEA20. The Triumph TR3A I had produced 105 BHP at 5,000 RPM - the reason I believe the TEA20 Fergy engine, 28 BHP at 2,600 RPM governed, is very "under stressed" and well maintained, should last a life time. Or two! :lol:

Bob in Oz

Bob,

Can one "build" a Standard TEA engine with some TR3 parts and get a 105 bhp Ferguson?

Nice Series 1 XKE. And of course RHD!.

Dave

Dave

"Can one "build" a Standard TEA engine with some TR3 parts and get a 105 bhp Ferguson?"

Click to expand...

The TEA20 engine is governed to (I think) max 2,600 RPM. I assume if one were to remove the governor max RPM restriction, the engine would probably rev far higher and produce more power? There are a number of significant differences - carbys, cam shaft etc.

Forty odd years ago I installed Ferguson pistons and cylinder liners in my then TR3A, to increase engine capacity from 1.9 liters to 2.1 liters. At that time the TR block had to be modified to take the 85 mm bore sleeves, but I now see one can get 85 mm bore sleeves for the 80 mm bore Ferguson engine, so I guess the after market 85 mm bore sleeves would go straight into a Triumph engine block.

Interesting links between tractors and performance cars. David Brown Limited, manufacturer of David Brown tractors, owned Aston Martin and Lagonda cars from 1947 to 1972 - hence the "DB" series of Aston Martin performance cars.

For interest, 58,385 or 80.5% of the 72,515 E Type/XKE series cars built were LHD for export to the USA. Whilst there are no accurate statistics exist, I am sure something well over 50% of the 500,000 UK built Ferguson tractors were for export, mostly within the then British Empire, with Australia, Canada, South Africa and New Zealand receiving the bulk of exports. Britain was broke and needed export dollars!

Further details of my car [b:aa3c2eb9f3]here[/b:aa3c2eb9f3].

Bob in Oz

Bob, nice work on the engine in your car! I am unfamiler with Jaguar engines. Is that a dual overhead cam ?