Labor time to R/R to30 clutch

Does anyone have a labor guide for the to30 and others...and what are some common shop rates...I live in Texas

Without allowing for rusted/seized bolts etc, around 4 to 5 hours for a self taught backyard mechanic with home tools and a Service Manual, like me. A complete clutch kit (clutch plate, pressure plate and bearings) costs around Aus$280 (US$240) or Aus$100 (US$85) for a clutch plate only. It is not a difficult job.

Check your starter ring gear whilst apart. A new TEA20 ring gear is Aus$85 (US$72). You will need oxy gas to heat the new ring or take it to a machine shop, if the TO30 is similar to the TEA20. Also check the gear box input shaft seal and crankshaft rear seal, if there is any sign of oil leaks. Having never seen a TO30, I have no idea of what is involved in changing seals.

Mechanic labour rates in Australia are around Aus$80 per hour so I expect the cost to have the job done professionally would be around Aus$350 (US$300) plus parts. I have no idea of US labor rates but suspect they may be cheaper than Australia.

I've split my TEA20 both ways over the past 25 years - front fprward and rear backwards. To change the clutch I prefer to chock the front wheels and support the engine with engine stands, then roll the transmission and backend, backwards, using a trolley jack under the gear box. Saves the problems of trying to control the front wheels whilst pulling the front end forward.

Most difficult job for me as a non mechanic, was removing the steering rod ends where the drang links connect to the steering box drop arms. Manual says to simultaneously hit with each side with two hammers - I am not that coordinated! I bought a tie rod end removing tool for $5 which did the job first time. I now smear graphite grease inside the drop arm and separating the two is simple every time.

It is neither a big job nor a difficult job.

Ooops. Can't edit the post!

I must emphasise I have never seen a TO20 or TO30 but suspect a clutch replacement job is almost identical to the TEA20. Prices quoted are for TEA20 parts in Australia.

Whilst apart make sure the two bell housing drain holes are open and clear and a large split pin is installed in the rear hole.

the originnal shop rate was one hour, very easy

Yes Ron - agreed.

But by the time you factor in 50 years of rustry bolts, K-Mart tools made in China and a self taught back yard mechanic whose real life occupation is that of an overweight, sedentary, geriatric company CEO with arthritic knees, I find four hours plus a six pack of cold beer far closer to the real time and inspirational refreshments required.

And have you ever known a qualified mechanic to charge his time in accordance with the manufacturer's indicative shop time?

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Bob in Oz
'53 TEA20

I'll be replacing the clutch on my TED20 next week.
I am sure it will take more than an hour

- TS

Don't forget the obligatory six pack of mechanic's lubricant........

:lol: :lol:

That's on top of the shopping list.



- TS

So, [b:5335e72f2b]flitemedic[/b:5335e72f2b], to precisely and specifically answer your questions: between 1 and 5 hours, cost $100 to $400 and somewher between a dry argument and a six pack.

Possibly, maybe or probably! :lol:

And if you are a flight medic, you're welcome any time from an Aussie in remote rural Australia that thinks our Royal Flying Doctor Service and all flight medics are angels with wings.

Come back and let us know how you got on with that clutch change!

Bob in Oz
'53 TEA20

Here Bob, I though you were talking about me. Until you got to the geriatric company CEO with arthritic knees part... LOL

Also figure in the 4 year old can I help daddy, productivity improvement time.

Jeff

Toora, I would like to see someone take it apart change the clutch check the flywheel and put it all back into working operation within that hour. If they could I might hire them after I started a tractor repair facility. LOL Let us know how long it takes you, not counting the Mechanics Lubrication time that Bob keeps talking about. LOL

Ron is correct the time to change a clutch was one hour but if you added removing the flywheel for any other reason that adds an extra 15 mins to the time allowed. We used to do that regularly out on the farm, not in a nice dry workshop and we didn't use the track either, just wheeled it out and back...well you know what our UK weather is like..John

My first post on here
I am about to change the clutch in my TEA 20
My shed only has a dirt floor and I have been wondering how to realign the two halves without being able to use a trolley jack. When you said that you reguarly have changed clutches on farm, John, my curiosity pricked up.
Also very interested about the suggestion that the front should be held while the back is rolled away.
This is a great forum for us learner tractor mechanics.

I think the manual suggests rolling the front half forward, however with the steering disconnected, the front wheels take some controlling.

Thought of putting down an old sheet of plywood or similar to roll the trolley jack on?

You will also need to make up a dummy spigot to align the clutch plate.

Tasmania eh? Place of my birth (Hobart) but I seldom admit to it! :lol:

being a chippy not a mechanic I thought of turning a dummy shaft out of timber not steel. But then I am not sure wether the inside or the outside of the splne is critical.
Thought I might setup a railway sleeper on a sand bed along under the tractor to roll the jack on.
It does seem a bit more attractive to be rolling the back half away and to set the front up solidly.
I dont live in Hobart. Too cold down there.

Too cold down there? Also way to far from any form of civilisation!

My eldest daughter is a nurse in Devonport so I won't speak ill of the north! :lol:

Some years ago I turned down a dummy spigot from a broom handle. Worked perfectly! If you have a wood turning lathe it should be a simple task - only needs to be a snug fit through the clutch plate spline and into the flywheel.

I'm currently replacing the clutch in my E Type Jaguar and by pure coincidence, the clutch plate spline is identical to the spine in a 253 Holden clutch. Found an old spigot at the dump and turned down the end to fit into the Jaguar flywheel.

A railway sleeper may work, although an old sheet of 1/2" ply, a couple of 6" x 2"s or similar would be perfect to run the trolley jack back on. Make sure you secure the engine on engine stands and chock the front wheels. The gear box must be in neutral before pushing back.

It really is a simple task but if it needs a little lubricant, liberally apply a couple of Boags or Cascades.

I suggest you email John (UK) as he has some great information sheets based on years of practical experience, much simpler to understand than the Manual. Final adjustment of the clutch free play is very important.

You wheel the front away from the back end using the Radius Rods like a wheelbarrow and then just have some bocks to lower it onto. You MUST keep the Radius Rods lower than a level position or it will not steer correctly for you. It is of course better on a hard floor. If you want some written information that I did for this work, email me at:- [email protected]
tell me again what you need and I will send it....John

Hey old codger and all...this is my answer to a dirt floor shop(which I obviously have). fabricated it just before I backed apart...once I"m done I will make a coupla modifications to it.....and yes Bob I"m a honest to goodness flight paramedic....and I also work on the ambulance as well...but I really like working on things that are broke...really get a kick out of making them work again...Toby

Hey old codger and all...this is my answer to a dirt floor shop(which I obviously have). fabricated it just before I backed apart...once I'm done I will make a coupla modifications to it.....and yes Bob I'm a honest to goodness flight paramedic....and I also work on the ambulance as well...but I really like working on things that are broke...really get a kick out of making them work again...Toby

Its a small world Bob, my partner is a nurse at Devonport, Latrobe to be exact. I will email John. This forum is really good.

This may help a few needing to make up a dummy spigot.

Listed on EBay Australia:

[b:e777645ef7]Ferguson Clutch Tools[/b:e777645ef7] Item # 330358452558

[b:e777645ef7]Coxhead Tools - Clutch, Tractor, Ferguson, Car ???[/b:e777645ef7] Item # 330358447296

Caveat emptor - no guarantee they will suit a Fergy!

Bob

The TO-30 is not a MF tractor. It"s a Harry Ferguson tractor.
Unless your are a mechanical klutz, replacing the clutch is a relatively easy job. You do, however, need the Ferguson Shop Manual(not the IT manual) to guide you if you"ve never split the tractor before. These Ferguson"s aren"t the Space Shuttle or an F-16. There a late 1940"s tractor and relatively EZ to work on.
Can"t help you as far as shop rates but, like cars repair shops, they aren"t cheap.
Unless you absolutely need the tractor in operation right away, I"d give some strong thought to doing it yourself. There are a bazillion years of experience ready and willing to help you on the Harry Ferguson forum.

Your tractor, your $"s, your choice.