Do I need a separate tank for a bucket?

I am buying a tea20 1951 & having the seller install a front end bucket.I need to find out (quickly please) if I [u:4357da400a]need[/u:4357da400a]a separate tank for the fluid or should it hook up to the tractor with out it? The seller tells me the tank on the loader is rusted out & he can get me another one for $100. In the quotes is part of the email he sent.
[color=darkblue:4357da400a]" There is one problem that I have encountered when I was sandblasting.The reservoir tank that is on it, (which is actualy an old gas tank ),is rusted right through.I beleive that when it came from the factory,they used the loader tubes as the reservoir tank,although this never worked for very long as the welds always leaked eventualy.This is not the factory tank.A freind of mine does have a nice tank that would suit this loader perfectly,but,he wants $100.00 for it. Did you want me to get it for you and mount it?? Did you want to get and install your own tank? Or did you want to pay the $100.00 for the tank and I shall sand blast,and paint and install it? So sorry about this,if I had a tank here,I wouldn't be asking,but I never realized that the old tank was rusted through.Please let me know what you want to do."[/color:4357da400a]

I presume it has a separate hydraulic pump, like engine or PTO driven. You need the tank to hold enough oil and to cool that oil.

Gerald J.

(quoted from post at 11:50:08 07/03/09) I presume it has a separate hydraulic pump, like engine or PTO driven. You need the tank to hold enough oil and to cool that oil.

Gerald J.

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was under the impression that the 3 point hitch and any other equipment all ran from the engine/trans/diff fluid.?

your loader uses a separate pto driven hydraulic pump, not the fergie factory hydraulic pump system on the tractor that drives the three point.

your question is whether you can use the tractor's sump as a reservoir for this pump. the answer is i really doubt it. that sump lubricates everything behind the engine and i would not want to trust it to be hooked up to a pump that may not be sized to use it without starving or overheating and damaging your tractor's innards. the other problem is the pto pump may have different fluid requirements from the tractor sump. the onboard pump runs on regular motor oil or mineral oil.

the other question is whether you can run your loader using the tractor's hydraulic system and completely bypass your pto driven loader pump. i don't know the answer. you would need to compare the output of the two pumps, and also take into account the fluid issue. i have a small ferguson loader that is driven by the on board pump, but it uses the three point for most of the lifting and the two small loader cylinders only supplement the three point.

The engine is separate. The three point, axle and transmission share oil. The internal pump is small and set up for one way cylinders. A loader works better with double acting cylinders and more flow than the internal pump.

Gerald J.

Thank you every body for the reply's. This is the first tractor Ive ever owned so I'm kinda dumb on these things..[b:44534b5292]But learning[/b:44534b5292]. Plus the tractor is still 600 miles away from me,so I cant just run out and look at it. This forum is a great help.
Thanks...Bill

Calculate the volume of hydraulic oil it takes to fill all the rams when they are extended. Now calculate the oil volume of the rams when they are retracted. Figure the difference between the volume of expanded and retracted and you have figured out how much theoretical volume you need for the tank. Double that and you have a pretty good rule of thumb for tank volume.
If the new tank he’s got for you is the right size get it. Have him plumb in a good hydraulic oil filter in the return line while he's at it. It will catch water and all kinds of crud that’s floating around inside that old girl. I was reading about a semi-circular magnet that someone is marketing to catch iron particles at the filter. Great idea but a couple of cow magnets and a pipe clamp would do the same thing.

Also if you get too big a tank you may be lulled into not checking your oil or keeping the tank full. If the tank gets low and condensation forms inside you get water. Water BAD for inside tractor. Another thing to have him put on the tank is some kind of a sight glass so you can visually see where the oil levels are. Dipsticks are OK too. Get a good watertight filler cap and a vent which will keep rain out. I had one once that was bad about rainwater seeping in at the vent until I modified it.

Another rule of thumb is that you need about one gallon of reservoir volume per gpm pump capacity to have adequate cooling. That usually calls for a bigger tank than just the differential cylinder volume. There is a page in the Baum Hydraulics catalog on that topic that may be on their web page.

Gerald J.

Have you driven one of these tractors with a front loader? These 1950's era tractors, with no power steering, don't handle very well with loaders. You should drive one before you buy, unless you are only going to use the tractor for loader work. In other words, it isn't nimble for other jobs with the loader installed. You see modern tractors in the field all the time, mowing with a loader installed, but these old ones don't handle so well for that.

don't use the tractor's sump for your loader. You will be much better off using an external reservoir for your loaders hydraulics. And, if he will add/plumb in a tank for $100, go for it.