Changing TO/TE Control Valve

You need to drop the pump. The valve is pressed in. Or if you can get away with just replaceing the "valve stem" then it need to be fed in from the piston side. Which may need the pistons removed.

Dropping the pump us easy.

1) Drain oil.
2) Pull the PTO
3) Remove the Inspection covers.
4) With a small 7/16 remove one screw from the fork stabilizer.
5) gently Disengage the control valve yoke from the fork.
6) Remove the 9 bolts holding the pump on and remove the pump.

Just pulled the pump from a TEA last night.

Jeff
 
If you just want to replace the valve, I see no reason why you should not be able to do it through the inspection ports. Remove both of them. Unhook the control fork form the valve, and pull it out. I have done this myself a few times. Easy if your hands are not too big. Get a woman to help. Can be a bit tricky if the oil is not drained, so you have to work blind.
klaus frøslev
 
Not sure how you'd do it. The control valve is pressed in.

I could see doing the Pressure relief valve this was as it is screwed in and can be removed with a wrench.
 
Would like to know more. How do you remove the valve stem or re-thread the new one in? Again I cannot see how the control valve can be removed with out pulling the pump.

I would like to know.
 
Jeff,

What most people refer to as the control valve, part number 181 163 M91(TO-30) or 181 088 M91 (TO/TE-20, Ford 2N/9N)-Valve Assembly, Pump Control is the T shaped assembly that hooks to the control fork. It slides into the pump. The Shop manual even says it can be removed. From the parts manual, it appears to me it can be removed in situ, i.e. with the pump installed.
 
The control valve slides more or less freely in and out, as it is connected to your control lever. It slides in a bushing, and THAT is pressed in the pump. But the bushing normally does not get worn i Think.
klaus
 
My manual states "It is necessary for the pump to be removed from the transmission housing before the oscillating control valve can be extracted".
 
Thank you Jerry for the information, I did understand all that. I was trying to be diplomatic in saying I do not believe the other advise given.

True, you can remove the clip, the bar(T piece) and the spring as seen in the picture (Items 8, 10 and 11 from parts book). The picture is the TO-30 pump I have for maintenance demos at the shows.

However, the valve stem (Item 9) is tapered and can only be removed from the fwd side of the pump. This also happends to be internal to the housing and access is complicated by the pistons.

Thus, I still assert you cannot change the valve out without pulling the pump and potentially removing the pistons to get access to put the new valve stem in.

Do I understand this wrong...
a2837.jpg

a2838.jpg

a2840.jpg

a2841.jpg
 
Jeff,

Refering to the parts book diagram:

Everything except item #12 (not sure where #13 goes) can be easlily removed from the pump with it still installed in the tractor. Item #9 goes through item #8 & #10 and then has a hole for the item #11 clip to go through to hold all of that together. All of that - #11 through #9 just pulls out of the pump. I have a TO20 and am sitting here with the one from my pump in my hands looking at it. If it doesn't come out easily and can only be taken out from the front then I have really messed up my pump.

I understand that item #12 is the critical piece that makes the complete valve assembly work - therefore to remove the entire assembly would require that piece to be removed from the front of the pump.

Wish I was close enough to see you at one of the shows. I would really like to see one of these pumps taken apart to see exactly how the pieces fit together and work. I posted about changing out the PTO seal - I still do not have it out. I will probably put it all back together, get my work done this summer and tear it all apart this fall. Do you have any wisdom to share with me about where in the pump the PTO shaft may be getting hung up and why?

Stan
 
Jeff, I'm not going to add anything here as I do not have a Ferguson, but do understand the similarity of N Ford hyd pump & Ferguson pump. That leads me to a couple of questions. I will call the un-numbered part between #8 & #9 the VALVE, which slides inside the bushing. Are you saying that this VALVE will not slide out the exterior side (rear) of the pump? Next, what is item #12? Humor me, if you will, I 'm just curious.
Thanks.
 
The un-numberd item is the control valve housing and it is press fitted into the pump housing. You have to press it out. It does come out aft as you see but you cannot just pull it out.

FYI the N-pump is Ferguson's pump design. It was the reason for the lawsuit after the splitup.

Item 12 is called the drive assembly. It is a TO-30 item that agitated the oil to keep grit from sticking the valve open.

Jeff
 
Well, I do not have my Shop Service Manual here, so I cannot reference it.

My expierence, on the pump pictured below, was that the un-numbered item between 8 and 9 was pressed into the housing, the shop manual said to replace it would need to be pressed out. It did not move by hand or light plier pressure at all. I was walking through the pump section measuring the tolerances with a micrometer.

The TO-30 Pump I have had obviously been pulled before and the control valve was replaced with a TO-20 type (See picture this post).

What still throws me is that slot in the valve housing (un-numbered item) The square end of item 12 inserts into a square hole in the fork assembly (item 14 left side of full pump picture). And thus will rotate +/- 20 deg or so. I checked the sparex replacement part and they call it an osselating control valve. Thus, the drive assy does engage the housing and is retained with the clip (item 13) and thus the housing would thus need to be loose to allow the rotation. In this case it could pull aft. But this is a TO-30 design.

I will re-check the shop service manual tonight.
b705.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 11:03:01 06/30/09) The un-numberd item is the control valve housing and it is press fitted into the pump housing. You have to press it out. It does come out aft as you see but you cannot just pull it out.

FYI the N-pump is Ferguson's pump design. It was the reason for the lawsuit after the splitup.

Item 12 is called the drive assembly. It is a TO-30 item that agitated the oil to keep grit from sticking the valve open.

Jeff

Jeff,

I have a training manual and the "unnumber part" as you call it is the movable part of the valve. It slides fore and aft in the bore and ports pump pressure to the lift cylinder or exhausts the cylinder to the sump, depending on it's fore and aft position. It is driven by the control fork.
The bushing is the part that stays with the pump and is stationary.
 
Here is a picture of the fwd end of the pump. It showed the splined busing the PTO shaft goes through. Perhaps it is getting hung up there?

Do you need any other photos? Send me an e-mail
a2862.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 11:03:01 06/30/09) The un-numberd item is the control valve housing and it is press fitted into the pump housing. You have to press it out. It does come out aft as you see but you cannot just pull it out.

FYI the N-pump is Ferguson's pump design. It was the reason for the lawsuit after the splitup.

Item 12 is called the drive assembly. It is a TO-30 item that agitated the oil to keep grit from sticking the valve open.

Jeff

Jeff,
I have a training manual and the "unnumbered part" as you call it is the movable part of the valve. It slides fore and aft in the bore and ports pump pressure to the lift cylinder or exhausts the cylinder to the sump, depending on it's fore and aft position. It is driven by the control fork.
The bushing is the part that stays with the pump and is stationary.
I don'T see the bushing in the parts list, but the traing manual refers to it as a replacable item made out of bronze. I believe the #12 "drive assembly" is also called the oscillator that is driven off the cam and keeps the valve from sticking on the TO-30's and i believe is retrofittable tot eh other models.
 
Stan: The end of Item number 12 goes into the unnumbered piece and item 13 (C Clip) fits into a groove just inside of the unnumbered piece. The c-clip in mine got dislodged somehow and then would not let the control valve go all the way forward as the oscillator rod was not centered and catching on the end of the control valve.
 

Stan: REDO of previous post. The end of Item number 12 goes into the unnumbered piece and item 13 (C Clip) fits into a groove just inside of the unnumbered piece to hold item 12 in place in the unnumbered piece. The c-clip in mine got dislodged somehow and when the control valve was pulled back item 12 became unattaced from the unnumbered piece and then would not let the control valve go all the way forward as the oscillator rod dropped and was not centered and catching on the end of the control valve not letting it go forward far enough.
John
 
Well, this went on for awhile, without tractorfix, but it was educational , at least for me.
Now I (think) I know that the oscillator is a TO-30 addition and requires removing the pump so it & valve can be removed from front side & the TE & TO-20s, much like Ford 9Ns, does not have oscillator & can be removed out the back side of pump w/o pump removal.
Is that about the story?
 
JMOR: The TE 20, TEA 20 models had the Oscillating control valve on hydraulic pump introduced to minimise control valve sticking at serial number 134001 according to my manual.
John
 
(quoted from post at 07:42:46 07/01/09) JMOR: The TE 20, TEA 20 models had the Oscillating control valve on hydraulic pump introduced to minimise control valve sticking at serial number 134001 according to my manual.
John
hank you, John (ont).
 
1 It is possible to replace the Control Valve through the side port providing it does not have an oscillator fitted, if it has you will need to drop the Pump out to do it.
2 The Control Valve Bush does wear, just like the valve does but not as much, it is made of highly polished steel to prevent the Control Valve sticking. I do not know of any suppliers of this Bush at this time and I have never seen one for the Ford Pump either, maybe there is one somewhere. Great care should be used handling this Bush because if you damage it, even just slightly, the Control Valve will not move freely and stick in the bore.
3 Jeff Oh is puzzled by the slots in some Control Valve, this is because there were two different types of oscillator fitted, the original square type with the long thin rod and the later flat aluminium strip type, this is the one that uses the slots in the Control Valve to drive it, this type is still held in position in a similar fashion to the earlier type, but they don't interchange. Should you have an oscillator that gets damaged and you can't find a replacement, simply use it without, providing there are no wear ridges on the Control Valve, you should have little trouble with it sticking. These valves weren't prone to sticking, it was just that occasionally they did, so they fitted the oscillator to help reduce the instances of this happening. A major cause of these Control Valves sticking is leaving the tractor parked with the implement raised, just lower it when you park up.
4 Someone asked about removing and replacing the Control Valve from the Control Fork, small hands help here, but you can also try this:- Remove both round port covers and also remove the Seat assy completely from the Top Cover, you can now lie on top of the Cover and place both hands inside, one through each port. Also there was a tool made to spread the Fork legs, which is quite easy to use, it is just a flat strip with a groove in each end to accept the legs so they don't slip out, and you place this between the Fork legs and twist it so that the Control Fork opens slightly and you can then get the Valve out.
If anyone wants to make one of these I have a picture of it that I can send if you ask....John
 
John (UK),

Pictures and dimensions would be great. Your instructions for repositioning the control valve in the forks are so good I printed them out for ready reference. I am in the middle of doing it again and fashioned a makeshift tool that does not work nearly as well as what you are describing. And yes I am laying on top of the tractor with both hands inside - just hope noone comes by and takes a picture.

You shared some wisdom on freeing a frozen yoke assembly one time - I still need to look that up and see if I can get mine freed up.

Stan
 

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