TEA 20 Head removal shortcut?

motorv8N · Oct 14, 2008

In two weeks I will have just one last opportunity to work on my TEA 20 before the cabin is closed up for the winter and the old girl is put up in her garage til spring.

As part of my ongoing investigation into engine noises (documented ad nauseum elsewhere on this board) I need to remove the head. I also want get get the pan off and remove the oil pump. Both the head and pump I want to take home with me.

As I will only have limited hours to do all this, does anyone know if I can I save some time by removing the head with the valve train, manifold, and carb etc in place, then seperate everything at my leisure at home?

I can probably get a wrench on that row of head bolts which are directly under the rocker assembly, so hopefully that won't be a problem. I'm also assuming that the head will lift off the pushrods without an issue and they will just remain in their bores for numbering and removal last. Governor, carb linkages and fuel line too, of course.

Is there anything else anyone can see that would prevent this approach?

Jeff-oh · Oct 14, 2008

To remove the head assy you should remove the carb and the manifold. If only for weight.

You will have to take the carb off the manifold to get at the choke and the govenor linkage to unhook them.

The exhaust will need to be removed. No, the manifold will not need to be removed but thoes are easy nuts to get at and take off (3 min job)

The fuel tank must come off.

Then take off the valve cover and the line that goes from the valve cover to the manifold.

Once this is all off just undo the 10 or so nuts that hold the head on. The head assy will pull straight up and off. The rocker atm assy/ valves, springs etc will all come off together. Then pull out the push rods and store in a labeled bag and place a good piece of plastic (.004 or .006" plastic drop cloth) over the cylinders to protect from weather and hold in place with the head studs.

Not a hard job but do take off the manifold.

Once off the valve cover can be put back on of transport.

Yes the head comes right off the push rods.

Did you get my e-mail about the engine valves etc?

Jeff

motorv8N · Oct 14, 2008

Thanks Jeff -- looks like manifold removal is the way to go.

No sign of your email and now that you mention it I never get any replies when I send something to someone through this site. I think my email on file is incorrect. Try uwoodspa at aol dot com

oldhousehugger25 · Oct 21, 2008

Best of luck and I hope the head comes off easy. But. If it doesn't please take the time to turn the head bolt studs out of the block. Sometimes carbon and corrosion build up between the stud and the hole in the cylinder head, thereby effectively welding the head to the studs. Do not force the head off because you may bend a stud or worse bust out a threaded hole in the block. Do as I say not as I did. By turning the studs out even if you bugger a few up it's still easier to replace a stud than the block.
John

Bob (Aust) · Oct 21, 2008

"Then take off the valve cover [b:37763da67a]and the line that goes from the valve cover to the manifold.[/b:37763da67a]"

Don't lose the small restrictor valve in the manifold end of the breather pipe.

If you are going to leave the head off for any extended period of time, lubricate the cylinders and top of the block well with engine oil or grease and fill the cylinders with very oily clean rags to remove any chance of rust or corrosion.

Once the head is loose and/or off, [b:37763da67a]DO NOT[/b:37763da67a] turn the engine crank shaft or you run the risk of dislodging the cylinder sleeves.

Simple engine, simple job. You should not have any problems.

Bob in Oz
'53 TEA20

motorv8N · Oct 21, 2008

Thanks very much, gents, for your ongoing advice. I hope the head won't be too hard to remove but fifty plus years is a lot of time for it to get used to staying put!

A question regarding dislodging the liners. I've read here and elsewhere that short lengths of copper pipe and washers dropped over the head studs and bolted down overlapping the liner edges are a good way to ensure the seals are not disturbed once the head is off.

My question is simply, how do you slide a piston out if the liner is secured in this way? Or is removing a single piston not likely to disturb the liner seals? Or is piston removal always accompanied by liner and seal replacement?

Yours in trepidation, etc, etc.

Bob (Aust) · Oct 21, 2008

At the price of new piston and liner sets, I wouldn't bother to replace only a piston. And fitting only new piston rings will only lead to disappointment.

A complete in frame engine overhaul kit, pistons, rings, liners and gaskets, should only cost around US$350.

The liner clamp as you suggest only engages the top lip of the liner and should not impede or restrict removing a piston.

TEA 20 Head removal shortcut?

motorv8N

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Jeff-oh

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motorv8N

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oldhousehugger25

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Bob (Aust)

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motorv8N

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Bob (Aust)

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