TO-35 throttle/governor linkage adjustment

mrjrwj1

Member
I just bought a 1955 TO35 and the linkage is not right. The tractor when started goes right to 2200 rpm and moving throttle lever to idle position doesn't slow it. Does anyone have concise instructions on adjustment? I have an I&T manual I am having trouble understanding as it has little detail. I don't understand how governor works in conjunction with throttle linkage so don't know what to look for. Also the governor compensator spring is not hooked up and I can't see where it would attach to water pump housing body. Help.
 
First, set the carb to governor rod as the book shows, engine off and wide open throttle, and MAKE SURE it does not bind on either end. Move throttle to idle, throttle should then be closed. Open the throttle hand lever just enough until the carb throttle is open again, and move the governor arm lever back and forth to make sure there's no binding. If the governor does not work still, there's most likely parts damage inside. Spring gives speed, ball weights balance against the spring to close throttle as needed. There can be weight assembly, or control arm trouble inside the front timing cover.
The compensating spring just helps hold the hand lever open, not causing your problem now..
 
The IT manual is a little vague about the governor...

Before we start, here's some governor theory:

The governor spring, it is connected between the dash lever shaft and the governor arm. At idle the spring is relaxed. At speed, the spring is stretched.

The governor, inside is a set of spinning steel balls. The spinning balls want to push the throttle closed. The slower the balls spin, the less the governor tries to push the throttle closed. The faster the balls spin, the harder it tries to close the throttle closed. There is a constant balancing act between the force of the spring and the force of the spinning balls. With the dash lever set at something above idle, the spring pulls the throttle wide open. As the engine speed comes up, the governor pushes the throttle somewhat closed. If the engine load increases, the engine slows, the balls slow, the spring opens the throttle to bring the speed back up. The balancing act repeats, constantly adjusting to keep the selected speed.

Here's how I adjust it.

Before starting the engine, push the dash lever to the idle position. Looking at the end of the vertical rod, the one coming down from the shaft with the U bolt, the lower end of the rod should be pushing down against the governor linkage arm, in turn holding the throttle plate linkage at the carb fully against the idle stop screw. If this is not happening, make an initial assessment and adjustment of either the U bolt position on the shaft, or the length of the rod from the governor to the carb plate. Once the throttle is against the idle stop screw, cautiously start the engine and see if it will now idle.

If it still runs away, there is a problem inside the carb, as in the throttle plate has come loose from the shaft. That will need to be fixed before proceeding.

If it does idle, cautiously move the dash lever toward a faster speed. If the speed regulates, the governor is working. If it begins to run away, either the governor is not working, or more adjustment is needed.

If it tries to run away, shut it off, remove the pin from the front of the rod yoke where the governor arm connects to the carb. Set the dash lever to a mid position. Move the disconnected rod a few times to get the feel of it, watch the carb lever move. You should see the lever move from the idle position to the full open position as the rod is moved.

Now, hold the rod back against the idle stop. Be sure the tractor is in neutral! Have an assistant start the engine, and stand by to shut it off, just in case...

You are now in control of the engine speed, so be careful! Watch where you put your hand because the belt and fan are close by!

Very gently begin bringing the engine speed up. Watch the governor link where you disconnected the rod yoke. As the speed comes up, the governor link should begin to move back. If no movement (be sure the dash lever is off idle), there is an internal problem with the governor, and the front cover will need to come off.

If the governor link does move, observe carefully how far back it moves. That position is the maximum travel the governor will move. The rod that was disconnected, it needs to be length adjusted so when the governor is at the end of it's travel, carb is pushed against the idle stop. Reconnect the linkage.

Repeat the first test, engine off, dash lever at idle, the carb should be against the idle stop. If not, readjust the U bolt.

Next, set the max governed RPM. It should be at 2200 RPM. This is a critical adjustment, needs to be done with a tachometer. Back to the U bolt, with the dash lever against the full speed stop, rotate the loosened U bolt bracket until the engine turns 2200 RPM, tighten it down. With the engine off, repeat the idle position test. Then set the dash lever to full speed, the carb should be wide open.

All this sounds complicated, but it's not too bad. You may want to print off a copy to have it with you while making the adjustments.

The compensating spring, what it does is helps keep the dash lever where you set it. Without it, the lever will slowly work back down to idle. There is also a friction disc under the dash that helps hold it in position. There is a cork or leather friction pad that needs to be between the steel discs. If missing or hard, you can make a new one.
Compensating Spring
 
I had the same issue with my 54 TO-30....the throttle did nothing. Turns out the gasket between the carb bowl and the body was leaking allowing extra fuel into the engine. Replaced it and worked fine.
 
(quoted from post at 05:24:30 08/17/18) Is this a turf 35. I was planning on looking at one that had same problem in
Illinois.
I don't know what a turf 35 is. Mine is just a regular farm tractor with gas Continental Z134 motor.
 

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