TO-35- No Spark

Alvaremr · Aug 12, 2018

Hi, having a little trouble with my wife's grandmother's 54 Ferguson to35 gas z134. This tractor came from a field where it's been sitting for about 10yrs. I cleaned and lined the tank, picked up a rebuilt carb, changed the engine oil and slapped a new battery in it. Moment of Truth came and nothing. I have fuel and air but no spark.
Tested it all the way to the distributor, replaced the cap and the rotor still no juice to the plugs. I have very little understanding of electrical demons or distributors...any thoughts from the wise members of this forum would be greatly appreciated.

JerryMT help! I'm just south of Bozeman.

Thanks Matt

Tom H. · Aug 12, 2018

Try cleaning the points with a bit of fine sandpaper. Usually the culprit

Alvaremr · Aug 12, 2018

Thanks Tom. I'll give that a try because I have juice leading up to the distributor cam but not actually on it.

old · Aug 12, 2018

A points file is far better then using sand paper since sand paper can leave behind some sand and if that happens the point will not work. Easy way to figure out if the points are working is pull the ignition side wire off the distributor and turn the ignition on. Then touch the wire back to where you took it off. If the points are closed and working you should see a small spark. No spark and points close means the points are dirty and need to be cleaned or you can turn the ignition on and open and close the points by hand and watch for a spark but be carful if you do the opening the point trick or you may find where the spark is not going by way if you getting shocked but that shock will not hurt you

steve19438 · Aug 12, 2018

while your in there put in a new condenser.

Alvaremr · Aug 12, 2018

Solid advice, thanks old!

Steve@Advance · Aug 12, 2018

If it's been sitting outside for 10 years, there may be compression problems and stuck valves.

Wouldn't hurt to put a spoon full of oil in each cylinder while working on the spark issue.

Also real good chance the transmission is full of water and will need to be changed. Better to get the water out now before it gets whipped into an emulsified goo! You can loosen the 3 drain plugs, let the water out, replace the plugs to save the oil for now.

Alvaremr · Aug 12, 2018

Solid advice, thanks old!

old · Aug 12, 2018

Also if it sat 10 years I would also give it a full ATF treatment. Fill the cylinders with ATF and if it has a vertical exhaust pour as much ATF down the exhaust as you can till it starts to leak out of some place. Be sure to put the plugs back In to keep dirt etc. out and so when you pour it down the exhaust it does not run out the plug holes

Alvaremr · Aug 12, 2018

Amazing how helpful everyone is on this forum, really appreciate it! Steves, both good reminders not to cut corners in an attempt to get the old girl running. What's another month after 10yrs...

old · Aug 12, 2018

I'd trust an old condenser to a new one any day of the week. Now days you have a 50/50 chance a new condenser is bad right out of the box

steve19438 · Aug 13, 2018

man you got an answer for everything. can you prove the 50% failure rate you speak of for a new condenser other than your ramblings?

old · Aug 13, 2018

Well when a manager of an O'Reilly's that does over 3 million in sales a year says not toe go with a new condenser because so many are bad you know something if up. I have not changed a condenser in over 15 years now and do not plan to unless I find that the point show signs of the condenser going bad which are burnt up points not just corroded points.

As for ramblings that is a form of belittling and that is not allowed on the site

TO-35- No Spark

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