Too much fuel to TO20

Alan1111

New User
I have to start my tractor with fuel turned off then immediately open at tank when it starts, but can still only open a fraction at the tank or she floods. No leaking but will not restart till she dries out.

Rebuilt carb but no change.

Any thoughts?

Thank you
 
You have some crud in the float valve in the carburetor. Take the carb back off, remove the needle valve, and use your air compressor to blow the crud back out. If that doesn't take care of the problem you might have to remove the valve seat to get the crud out.
 
I used the wrong word, I meant to say float valve. If he can remove the float valve without removing the float he can blow it out if he wants to.
 
Compress air yes but by mouth you can do that and it does not hurt a thing. But either way if one does not have the drain plug out it will do very little if any thing
 
Any body can rebuild a carb but not every body can do so correctly.
#1 is the float in good condition and not caved in or has a rattle to it if you shake it??#2 if you flip the carb up side down then right side up can you hear the float move?? If you cannot then the float is hanging on the side f the carb and that will cause a problem.
#3 did you get the float needle seat good and tight and did you put the correct gasket washer on it before putting it in?? If not it leaks and causes that problem.
#4 did you use a small piece of wire or as I do a torch tip cleaner tool to poke out all the passageways?? And compressed air and carb cleaner spray and soak it over night in a good carb cleaner?? If you did not do all those you missed something in the carb
 
Thanks for all the comments. Seems like the problem is clear. Will have to investigate the cause. The float and all ports and valves seemed clear and clean and moving well after soaking, clearing, and assembly, but apparently no!

Will have to redo

Thanks again
 
Like others said, revisit the float/needle/seat function.

Flooding is a common problem with the old carbs, everything has to be right.

It only takes a tiny speck of rust or trash to hold the valve open. If the tank is contaminated, it will need to come off, be dumped and rinsed out. If you can buy E85 gas there, it makes a good tank cleaner solvent. Rinse and dump, don't try to run on it!

Be sure the sediment bowl screen is in place and clean. If you feel more rust may come loose in the tank, an inline filter can be used, but be sure to use the fine screen type filter, not pleated paper. Pleated paper can be too restrictive for a gravity flow system Be sure to blow and flush the line before connecting. I like to turn the fuel on just before connecting the line to the carb. Let it flush anything that may have gotten in the line during installation.

Back to the carb, a good test before putting the carb back on, turn it upside down, suck on the fuel fitting, hold your tongue over the hole. If it doesn't hold vacuum, the needle is not sealing on the seat. Sounds gross, but not fatal, remember to spit!LOL
 
Also if you put in a new needle and seat if the needle is the newer rubber tipped on you need to put a set in it. After making sure the needle seat is good and tight and has the gasket drop the needle in to the seat and then tap on it a few times. That will put a set in the rubber so it will seal. When you put the carb back together turn it up side down and right side up close to your ear and listen for the float to move. No sound means float is hanging on the sides of the carb and will cause flooding
 

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