TO35 Hydraulic lift troubleshooting

Hi, does anyone have the written instructions for troubleshooting and setting up T035 Hydraulics that John from UK used to send? I tried to send a request to his email, but it appears he hasn't posted in a long time, so not sure if he still is online.

I have a 1957 TO35 and have had issues with the hydraulics dropping fairly quickly when turning the engine off. I replaced the oring seals, lift piston, rings and cylinder and relief valve, new GL1 oil to the correct level but not really any improvement. I do see some aeration of the oil after running. Thinking i may need to replace or rebuild the pump, but was hoping for some diagnostics before I spend the money/time.

The hydraulic dropping is worse as the tractor heats up and at lower RPMs it doesn't lift my brush hog very well.

Thanks for the help.

Mike

relief valve?

Thanks, replaced the relief valve.

Bob....Owner Operator MF FE 35 X

Pics:

Problem is valves in head of pump when it drops. Valves letting oil bypass.

Thanks, I'll give this a try tomorrow. Any suggestions on how to chain the lift arms down?

Mike

Thanks, is this something I could verify by looking through side inspection cover?
Mike

Did that fix it?

Unfortunately not

Things to look for through the inspection cover...

But first! Look but don't touch! Never reach in with the engine running, it will get you!

With the lift arms chained down, or a heavy implement attached, raise the implement part way up.

Looking up through the inspection port, look for oil coming down around the piston. Some leakage is normal, but not streaming down. Since this has already been replaced, not likely the problem.

Look for oil coming down around the top of the stand pipe, as in blown oring.

Looking down, look for oil boiling up around the bottom of the stand pipe, blown oring.

Look for oil boiling up around relief valve.

Here's where it gets tricky. If you have the gauge in the test port, and the pressure is at the recommended pressure (1900-2300 prior to ser 168853, 2300-2800 after), and oil is boiling up around the relief valve, that is normal.

If there is no oil coming from the relief valve, and the pressure is low, and no other obvious internal leaks, there is a problem with the pump.

Typical signs of a weak pump are jerky lifting, and low pressure when warm.

If you do determine it is the pump, I would recommend buying a rebuilt pump instead of repairing yours. I tried the repair kit, it did not fit properly. Had I not had access to a lathe and surface grinder, I would not have been able to make it work. Even then there were many hours invested in fitting and assembling to get the proper clearances.

When going back, be sure to start with the roller released from the vertical levers inside the right inspection cover. That is a delicate adjustment, get it wrong and the arms will go too high, possibly break the top cover!

Before going further, a shop manual would be a very valuable investment. It will more than pay for itself in mistakes not made!

My parents special Ordered a 1963 Mf FE 35 X with a loader to be installed in Canada by the local MF Dealer ship.

As money was sparse.....the loader was supplied with hydraulic PSI by chaining down the lift arms, diverting oil as per the other pictures I sent you.

I have since obtained ownership of the 1963 Mf FE 35 X, removed the loader, as well as installed remote hydraulic outlets. This makes it easy to check the pump out let psi:

Please let the "YT" group as to your findings as in HYD. PSI working PSI?

Bob...

Steve, Thank you very much for the detailed post! With the guage in the test port and my 5' brush hog attached plus about 500 lbs added by me and my son the gage hit about 1700 psi. Wasnt sure how to chain the lift arms down. Note the tractor is relatively cold. I did see that once the arms rose to the set point they start to shake and the gage needle bounces. It lifts pretty steady before reaching the set point. Through the inspection port I do see a stream of oil running out the open end of the cylinder, nothing boiling around the stand pipe top or bottom or around the relief valve. Not sure if the amount coming out of the cylinder is acceptable. I could try posting a video if it would help. Thanks again for the advice!

Mike

Thanks! The pictures helped a lot! I'll try the chaining and report back. Mike

Ok, Bob posted pics on how to chain down the arms. I can get about 1700 psi when revving up the engine and with things warmed up. If i drop down to a little faster than idle, the pressure drops to only 500psi. There is a lot of oil splashing in the inspection cover toward front of tractor where i think the pump valves are. When i rev up, the splashing gets pretty severe.
Again, i see a steady stream from the cylinder. Ideas?

Oh, and my s/n is later 173xxx and i got the higher pressure relief valve.

When I was in the same boat as you are......a first rate re-build kit with everything including the ex-mother in-laws Dentures was from $188.00>$206.00.
Now pumps are available from $188.00 > $250.00

Installed a NEW pump, with 40 hrs. running time...(15-40 Oil)....pump is running fine:

I shall look into rebuilding the original, as I have neighbours with problematic Hydraulic PSI.

Bob.....MF FE 35 X

I would take the splashing around the pump to indicate bad valves.

A very common problem.

Thanks for the help everyone. I ordered a pump. I'll report back how I make out. Mike

How is the Back Lash on the Rear Drive Coupling?

I had to replace this coupling when the New Pump was Installed:


Bob..Owner Operator MF FE 35 X and other colored Tractors:

Good tips, thanks Bob!

Hey Bob I received my pump this week and tried to install it for a little while last night. Is there any trick to shoe-horning the new pump into an older to35? Do you need to install the collar with the cotter pin on the forward pump shaft before you slide it down in or should you install it after? Do you tip the front in first or the back in first? Do you need to take the pressure relief valve or the control lever off before sliding the pump in? Any other advice?? Thanks!!

Good day Mikeroche56:

When I installed the NEW HYDRAULIC PUMP in my MF 35, I had to SPLIT / REMOVE the Transmission from the Diff. Housing,(SEE PICTURE) as I had a leaking GASKET between the AFT of the Transmission and the Diff. Housing to replace.

I installed the HYD.PUMP into the Diff. Housing (Installed the TWO LOCATING DOWELS)with the Forward drive coupling attached to the HYDRAULIC PUMP with the cotter pin.

Then installed several Line-up Pins / Bolts to align the Transmission with the Diff. Housing, and checked that the OUT PUT SHAFT of the TRANMISSION would align with the COUPLING drive on the HYD. PUMP.

With a helper we rolled the front half of the Tractor AFT, checked to verify that everything lined up properly.

We then rolled the front half of the Tractor / Transmission forward, Installed a NEW GASKET, adhesive and matted the Transmission to the Diff. Housing. Secured all bolts between the Transmission and the Diff. Housing.

The INPUT COUPLING drive of the HYDRAULIC PUMP did NOT align with the drive splines of the Transmission. We engaged the drive GEAR on the PTO SHAFT forwards, engaging the PYO drive to the HYDRAULIC PUMP, then turned the PTO SHAFT. The result that the HYDRAULIC PUMP DRVIE COUPLING aligned properly with the out put drive of the Transmission.

I have read in "YT" posts that YES it is possible to install the HYDRAULIC PUMP with out splitting the Transmission from the Diff. Housing on some Massey Models.
I have read in "YT" posts there are individual whom did not check all dimensions of the new PUMP against the OLD faulty pump, only to find the splines were DIFFERENT, as well as the width of the NEW PUMP was to wide to fit between the TWO mounting / securing Dowels.

If I had to change out a PUMP with out splitting the transmission from the DIFF. Housing, I would remove what ever it takes to do the installation "short of NOT dismantling the PUMP HOUSING."

Bob..

Thanks, Bob. The pump width and the splines seem ok, i'll give it another go...

Mike

Be sure the RANGE SELECTOR is in "H"....allows for more room to install the HYD.PUMP.

Bob...

Thanks everyone for the help. I got the new pump installed and it works great! Will make brush hogging a lot easier. I ended up removing the pump filter and control lever to make it easier to jockey around in the case and not worry about bending anything. Bad news is that I decided to replace the PTO bearing and oil seal while I had the shaft out and sure enough I scratched the shaft with the bearing c clip and now it leaks a little. Think I may need a speedi sleeve to repair. I tried polishing out the scratches, maybe the shaft is undersized slightly. Anybody have luck using speedi sleeves on to35 pto shafts? Thanks again! Mike

Thanks for posting back ......always great to hear a success story.


Bob....

I would tackle that steady stream from the cylinder first, that could be the source of all your woes. Your tractor has the 3" piston and cylinder, right? Did you say that the cylinder, piston, and rings are all new?