TO30 dying

tiberius30 · Apr 25, 2018

So, I posted in another thread, but figured it would be better to post a new thread. I hooked up the RO30 to the mower with an overrun coupler. It was not a great fit and there was some slop in-between the coupler and the pto. When I started to mow the tractor died. This does not normally happen. I can use the six foot blade for hours. It is a five foot finish mower, btw. Any help is appreciated.

miner09 · Apr 25, 2018

You getting fire at points? Do they need setting? 6 or 12 volt? Check and post info so
we can help.

tiberius30 · Apr 25, 2018

It is converted to 12 volt. It runs well without the mower hooked up to the PTO.

Thanks,
Chris

pomester · Apr 25, 2018

check the fuel delivery - could be running out of fuel when it's asked to work - the pick-up can be obstructed in the tank with scale or whatnot, the screen/sediment bowl can be full, and there's a screen associated with the brass female fitting where fuel enters the carburetor that can fill up -

the mower turns freely, right?

tiberius30 · Apr 25, 2018

Okay, I will check the fuel. I think it did have old fuel in it for a while. I sometimes have to hit the carb with a hammer. I put some stp in it a little while back. It is possible the fuel has not worked its way all the way through. Yes, the spindles move freely. I greased them all and raised the mower and turned them by hand and they move fine. Would the slop in the PTO drive cause it to die as well? I was thinking it might have to work harder, since it is not a tight fit.

Thanks for the replies.
Chris

pomester · Apr 25, 2018

'slop in the PTO' would not cause it to die - - you are aware that the yokes associated with the PTO shaft need to be synchronized (for want of a better word)? - most shafts will not go together incorrectly, but some do - I still don't think it would cause the engine to die, but it would be noisy at least and lock up at worst (only at a big angle)

RM-MN · Apr 26, 2018

Check your ignition. With the throttle closed as it will be when not under load the compression won't be real high and a poor spark can still jump the plug gap and ignite the fuel. Opening the throttle such as under load increases the compression and the spark can no longer jump the gap. Make sure it has a spark that can jump a minimum of 1/4 inch in air.

tiberius30 · Apr 26, 2018

(quoted from post at 03:46:45 04/26/18) Check your ignition. With the throttle closed as it will be when not under load the compression won't be real high and a poor spark can still jump the plug gap and ignite the fuel. Opening the throttle such as under load increases the compression and the spark can no longer jump the gap. Make sure it has a spark that can jump a minimum of 1/4 inch in air.

Would you mind to explain how to do that? Thanks, Chris.

RM-MN · Apr 27, 2018

This is probably the easiest way to test the ability of the spark to jump a gap. If you are daring you can just hold the coil wire away from the engine to see if it sparks but it might decide to spark to ground through you.
Spark gap tester

Tom H. · Apr 27, 2018

Is it possible there is trash (long grass a piece of rope or something else) binding in the mower? If the tractor works fine not using the PTO then
I would suspect the implement not running freely

tiberius30 · Apr 27, 2018

(quoted from post at 04:43:19 04/27/18) Is it possible there is trash (long grass a piece of rope or something else) binding in the mower? If the tractor works fine not using the PTO then
I would suspect the implement not running freely

Thanks for the link on the tester. I will pick one up.

IRT the mower, I raised it up with the tractor and spun all of the spindles by hand. They all turned freely. The mower cut about a 10 foot area, but that was with the tractor dying four times. so, I know it will cut. I just was not sure if I was putting too much of a load on the tractor with the PTO drivetrain sloppy, but it sounds like instead it is the tractor just not being able to work up to par. I plan on checking on the gas and spark plugs this weekend.

Ron(Ont) · Apr 27, 2018

(quoted from post at 17:08:06 04/25/18) So, When I started to mow the tractor died. This does not normally happen. I can use the six foot blade for hours.

A couple of thoughts. I wonder if your blade loads up the engine as much as your mower. Do you have another implement such as a plow that you could really make the engine work, without the PTO, as a test.

If it still stalled, I would suspect insufficient fuel as well. Another possibility might be governor issues. Another way to test the governor is put it in 4th gear, medium throttle and slowly let out the clutch part way. Watch the carb linkage and see if the governor opens up the carb fully. Hold it a while and ensure that it does not stall. It should stay running loaded up to the RPM is near idle speed. (This also sort-of tests the fuel flow as well)

tiberius30 · Apr 27, 2018

(quoted from post at 07:14:55 04/27/18)

(quoted from post at 17:08:06 04/25/18) So, When I started to mow the tractor died. This does not normally happen. I can use the six foot blade for hours.

Click to expand...

A couple of thoughts. I wonder if your blade loads up the engine as much as your mower. Do you have another implement such as a plow that you could really make the engine work, without the PTO, as a test.

If it still stalled, I would suspect insufficient fuel as well. Another possibility might be governor issues. Another way to test the governor is put it in 4th gear, medium throttle and slowly let out the clutch part way. Watch the carb linkage and see if the governor opens up the carb fully. Hold it a while and ensure that it does not stall. It should stay running loaded up to the RPM is near idle speed. (This also sort-of tests the fuel flow as well)

All I have is the blade. I can check the governor and see if that is it as well. Thanks!

Ron(Ont) · Apr 27, 2018

(quoted from post at 09:34:03 04/27/18)

(quoted from post at 07:14:55 04/27/18) Another way to test the governor is put it in 4th gear, medium throttle and slowly let out the clutch part way. Watch the carb linkage and see if the governor opens up the carb fully. Hold it a while and ensure that it does not stall. It should stay running loaded up to the RPM is near idle speed. (This also sort-of tests the fuel flow as well)

Click to expand...

All I have is the blade. I can check the governor and see if that is it as well. Thanks!

I am sorry, but I forgot the most important part. [b:e86440638a]Make sure that you have your foot on the brakes[/b:e86440638a]. :!: :roll:

Ron(Ont) · Apr 27, 2018

The idea is to use the brakes as your load to force the governor to work.

tiberius30 · Apr 28, 2018

(quoted from post at 14:15:45 04/27/18)
The idea is to use the brakes as your load to force the governor to work.

Okay, when I did this it wants to do. The throttle lever does not shoot forward. I looked at the instructions for adjusting the govenor, but honestly don’t understand them. Are there simpler instructions for adjusting it?

Thanks,
Chris

Ron(Ont) · Apr 30, 2018

(quoted from post at 10:02:52 04/28/18)
Okay, when I did this it wants to do. The throttle lever does not shoot forward. Chris

Can you explain in more detail what happens? "...it wants to do" what?

Which manual do you have? The IT manual or do you have the 400+ page factory manual? Or something else?

Do you have something to measure engine RPM? If not, a Dwell meter is a good investment. They can be had for less than $50 and also measure RPM.

tiberius30 · Apr 30, 2018

First, sorry about the weird post. Auto correct decided to change it for me. In regards to the manuals, I used the ones from n tractor club. I don't have something to measure the rpms. On page 31 of the owners manual it describes how to tell if the governor is adjusted properly (the same way you described). When I put it in fourth gear, hold the break, and slowly release the clutch, the throttle rod does not quickly go forward. It does not move. That is why I was thinking the governor is out of adjustment. Let me know if that sounds right. If so, do you know an easier or least plain english way to adjust it. Thank you for all of your help. It has been a life and money saver.

Chris

Ron(Ont) · Apr 30, 2018

(quoted from post at 07:11:30 04/30/18) First, sorry about the weird post. Auto correct decided to change it for me. In regards to the manuals, I used the ones from n tractor club. I don't have something to measure the rpms. On page 31 of the owners manual it describes how to tell if the governor is adjusted properly (the same way you described). When I put it in fourth gear, hold the break, and slowly release the clutch, the throttle rod does not quickly go forward. It does not move. That is why I was thinking the governor is out of adjustment. Let me know if that sounds right. If so, do you know an easier or least plain english way to adjust it. Thank you for all of your help. It has been a life and money saver.Chris

It would help if we could literally get on the same page. I checked the 2 TO30 manuals that I found there and page 31 does not have anything about the governor. If you could download those 2 books, we could go through it in sequence. One starts on page 46, Adjustment. The other is on page 11, Governor.

I highly recommend that you read the procedure even a dozen times. I have read it way more than that. You have to understand the way the governor works and what all the part names are.

I really recommend that you get a Tach/Dwell meter. I saw one on Amazon for $19.00.

In the mean time I assume that your manual throttle adjustment works and you get the RPM up to around 2000 RPM, correct? While you are increasing the RPM, the throttle rod moves rearward and opens the carb throttle plate, correct? Now, when you quickly open the throttle to max, the throttle rod should move rearward and then quickly move forward a little to keep the engine from over revving. Does it do this?

tiberius30 · Apr 30, 2018

I am using the Ferguson TO30-Owner's Manual. It is 47 pages total. On page 31 of the manual, 36 of the PDF, it discusses the governor. It sounds like we are on the same page. I will read it more and try to understand.

I can invest in a Tach/Dwell meter.

In the mean time I assume that your manual throttle adjustment works and you get the RPM up to around 2000 RPM, correct?

Yes.

While you are increasing the RPM, the throttle rod moves rearward and opens the carb throttle plate, correct? Now, when you quickly open the throttle to max, the throttle rod should move rearward and then quickly move forward a little to keep the engine from over revving. Does it do this?

I will try to check this out tonight when I get a chance. Thanks!

Chris

Ron(Ont) · Apr 30, 2018

What I think you need are the shop manuals that can help you R&R a whole tractor. The 1st manual is 187 pages. The other is only 32 pages total.

Ron(Ont) · Apr 30, 2018

While you are at it get a Parts book or two.

tiberius30 · May 29, 2018

Well, a little bit of time has passed. I was able to get the governor adjusted. I watched a video by a guy in the UK. It was very helpful. But, now the tractor is still dying. I also figured out I can adjust my PTO driveline, so I know it is not that. I am thinking I may need to rebuild the carb. It acts like it is starved for gas. I can take off the small filter on the carb and spray starter fluid and it will run on that, but that is it. I have cleaned the sediment bowl and it has an inline fuel filter as well. I can see gas in both. The tractor will mow for around 10 mins and then just die. Thoughts?

Thanks,
Chris

pomester · May 29, 2018

and it has an inline fuel filter as well

many inline filters are not made for gravity fed fuel systems - if you have a sediment bowl and the screen at the carburetor an inline filter is unnecessary - eliminating that filter would be the next thing I'd try - while I was fussing with the fuel line I'd also remove the sediment bowl assembly from the tank and clean the intake area, even a small amount of scale in the tank can/will end up clogging the opening to the bowl assembly.

tiberius30 · May 29, 2018

(quoted from post at 07:18:58 05/29/18)

and it has an inline fuel filter as well

Click to expand...

many inline filters are not made for gravity fed fuel systems - if you have a sediment bowl and the screen at the carburetor an inline filter is unnecessary - eliminating that filter would be the next thing I'd try - while I was fussing with the fuel line I'd also remove the sediment bowl assembly from the tank and clean the intake area, even a small amount of scale in the tank can/will end up clogging the opening to the bowl assembly.

I was wondering about that. I will try to remove it and see what it does. Thanks for the suggestion.

Chris

TO30 dying

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