TO30 head studs

pomester · Apr 18, 2018

From ARP finally came today, two full weeks after a phone/CC order - maybe I am spoiled, but I expected them sooner...

anyway - they are quality hardware, US made, nice fit and finish - looks like an unpleasant day outside tomorrow, maybe I'll get this project back together - it's been 10 weeks since I started disassembly -

new studs next to old, the lengths are a bit different, but I think they'll work fine -

they have an allen socket built into the end to aid installation -

pomester · Apr 19, 2018

What was suppose to be a dreary day turned out to be the nicest day in a week, so it was outside work instead of shop - I did get a couple hours of shop time this evening tho -

installed the new studs

checked/cleaned the head surface - I went light on the head to save a bit of $$ - new valve springs (one was broke when I took it apart) and a valve job with a light clean =$225 -- new valve guides, valves, seats(?) and major clean would have had it over $500 easily - I think it will be fine for quite a while

torqued to 75ft/pounds and start putting the valve train back together -

set valve lash @.015"

also got the manifold attached and the water outlet elbow along with associated governor linkage attached/installed - no picture tho - maybe I'll get it fired up tomorrow -

Dan S (NY) · Apr 20, 2018

Looking good!. Were the long studs long enough? It looks like they don't come up all the way through the nut, but it may just be the way they look in the picture.

miner09 · Apr 20, 2018

Looks like your doing a great job. It should last another 60 yrs.

2tractors · Apr 20, 2018

What torque method did you use for the ones on the left side?

pomester · Apr 20, 2018

Were the long studs long enough?

not really - there's about a half a thread exposed on the nuts and I couldn't use the very nice washers ARP sent - the nuts are flanged tho and I feel comfortable with the situation - it's much better than what it replaced - if I were to do it again I might pop for the stock long studs @$8.50 each, but I could not in good conscience pay $18+ each for the short ones

pomester · Apr 20, 2018

What torque method did you use for the ones on the left side?

I put a box end wrench on them and gave it all I had - it will be close enough - I did work from the center out in 4 hitches to bring the torque up -

pomester · Apr 20, 2018

Looks like your doing a great job. It should last another 60 yrs.

Thanks - This old tractor has done some work - all four tires filled with fluid and I have a set of iron front wheel weights that came with it which are currently unneeded - a couple of years ago I went thru the rear half including punching out and replacing the hitch bolts that had been broken off - - the tractor now serves relatively light duty altho it is used many days a year - the engine had been gone thru at least once before and maybe twice, I've lived with a leaky head gasket since I bought it (2009) and I think the condition of the original studs is the reason it had problems, nuts would not spin freely and there was no way to torque uniformly - after running a die over them they were too loose for my comfort which is why I've been twiddling my thumbs for the last two weeks waiting on parts -

DrLoch · Apr 21, 2018

I've used ARP for a number of fastners.

FYI for the side head stud torque, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tv_KHH55qdQ

DrLoch · Apr 21, 2018

Did you use their lube on the nuts and washers per there recommendations?

pomester · Apr 22, 2018

Did you use their lube on the nuts

no - I used some 30W

pomester · Apr 22, 2018

FYI for the side head stud torque

Thanks - nice machine they have for calibrating a torque wrench - every time I use it I wonder how close this 50 year old Craftsman is - -

pomester · Apr 23, 2018

I got it running this afternoon - fired right off, idled right down, and after fussing with the valve lash, purrs like a Continental Z129...

Even tho it has shortcomings it is a sweet running unit - over 65 years old, a testament to a time when simplicity and durability were in fashion - hopefully adding the complexity of a Sherman combination will not come back to haunt me -

I guess I should total everything up, but may not... it's well north of $1000, probably $1500 if I count the new front tires - 11 weeks of shop space, tho it's not like it the only thing I've done in that time -

I'll get the rest put back tomorrow and I'll work it as soon as the weather lets me -

pomester · Apr 25, 2018

finished for the time being - adjusted the clutch pedal, lubricated all the appropriate points, put the fuel which was drained on February 4 back in - I wasn't 100% certain on the timing so I took the cover plate which resides behind the oil pan off and painted a red line at 6*, then checked the timing and found it right on - it is difficult to get a view in that small hole while also illuminating the marks with the timing light - took it for a short run around but didn't do any work, there's a couple more machines that are getting maintenanced that I wanted to push forward on - lovely spring day -

the wiring needs to be tidied up -

The machine came with the factory swinging drawbar, the factory 3 point drawbar, a belt pulley, a PTO extension, and iron front wheel weights - this drawbar is handy

it needs a new exhaust - paper thin and there's a crack at the bend - the front wheels had formerly held calcium and were rusty, I had them sandblasted and new tires installed, one of the existing tires had a knot in it - it had new rear tires and rims when I got it -

JWL901 · Mar 14, 2024

pomester said:
From ARP finally came today, two full weeks after a phone/CC order - maybe I am spoiled, but I expected them sooner...

anyway - they are quality hardware, US made, nice fit and finish - looks like an unpleasant day outside tomorrow, maybe I'll get this project back together - it's been 10 weeks since I started disassembly -

new studs next to old, the lengths are a bit different, but I think they'll work fine -

they have an allen socket built into the end to aid installation -

JWL901 · Mar 14, 2024

Do you have any of the specific bolt size information from your order?

Im needing a complete set of cylinder head bolts for a Ferguson TO30 (Z129 Block) and do not have my old bolts for sizing.

Thanks.

pomester · Mar 14, 2024

JWL901 said:
Do you have any of the specific bolt size information from your order?

Im needing a complete set of cylinder head bolts for a Ferguson TO30 (Z129 Block) and do not have my old bolts for sizing.

Thanks.

Check this thread here - it has parts #'s and sizes. https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/threads/to30-head-studs.1520615/#post-11335862

The Z-129 has studs, not bolts, 7/16".
Here is what you need. Prices may not be current.
8 - stud # AP4.750-1SB (4.750” OAL) $ 7.13
5 - stud # AP2.090-1SB (2.090” OAL) $ 4.80
13 - 200-8605 (hex nut) $ 2.55
13 - 200-8510 (washer) $ 1.12

ARP | The Official Web Site

arp-bolts.com

JWL901 · Mar 14, 2024

pomester said:
Check this thread here - it has parts #'s and sizes. https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/threads/to30-head-studs.1520615/#post-11335862

The Z-129 has studs, not bolts, 7/16".
Here is what you need. Prices may not be current.
8 - stud # AP4.750-1SB (4.750” OAL) $ 7.13
5 - stud # AP2.090-1SB (2.090” OAL) $ 4.80
13 - 200-8605 (hex nut) $ 2.55
13 - 200-8510 (washer) $ 1.12

ARP | The Official Web Site

arp-bolts.com

Intended to say studs not bolts. Thanks for the info.

TO30 head studs

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