TO30 washers?

pomester

Member
I'm getting ready to bolt the engine back to the bell housing on my TO30. Did the bolts that hold the engine to the bell housing have lock washers from the factory? Of the bolts I removed, some had washers and some didn't.

And what about the flywheel to crankshaft? - when I removed it, the nuts had internal toothed lock washers - that doesn't look factory to me. And the 7/16-20 NF nuts associated with the flywheel are a 5/8" socket size whereas the rest of the 7/16-20 nuts are 11/16" socket size - anybody know if this is original/important? - - they are kinda buggered up and I'll replace them with new nuts unless there's some reason not to -

I can't find pictures of the flywheel in the online parts book...
 
Harry was quite particular with hardware. The larger head sizes are still available at Fastenal. I think they are referred to as "heavy" nuts / bolts.
 
Be careful with the flywheel nuts. They may be small hex for clearance purposes. The tooth washers sound factory. If you do replace the nuts, be sure to use grade 8 nuts.
 
Thanks all -

I got everything ready to go tonight, I guess, but it got a little late to remove the engine from the stand, attach/assemble the flywheel/pressure plate to the engine and then get it bolted to the bell housing, I'd like to be fresh with plenty of time. I'm working alone so it may be a little fussy getting things mated.

I am particular about hardware also, and it's frustrating with the quality of nuts/bolts/washers commonly available these days. Nice tip of Fastenal, there is one not far away - I will test them, there is one rouge bolt associated with the engine/bell housing and another with the steering box. I sometimes use McMaster-Carr, but without being able to handle and compare it's still a gamble. I don't like the condition of the lock washers associated with the flywheel, but the local hardware didn't have 7/16", they skipped from 3/8" to 1/2", and looking at the quality of the washers I would have reservations about using this particular variation anyway. I plan to reuse the originals, maybe with a drop of blue locktite.

Lots of fussing going on - took the radiator to a shop an hour away, they can fix it, hope they are reasonable. I've got a few more parts to take to the sand blaster tomorrow, I was not going to renew the finish, but I just can't not. I found out the gasket kit doesn't contain the seal for the oil pick-up, so I hunted one of those down online and am waiting so I can close up the bottom of the engine.

one more little modern frustration - I needed to chase/clean the threads on the studs that hold the head on. I didn't have the right sized die in stock, so I bought a 'Master Mechanic' brand. I did the first stud and thought it was working hard, but the threads are in mediocre condition. After the second stud required the same excessive effort I checked and while yes, the nuts to run on cleanly, they are sloppy with noticeable up and down and side to side movement. I quit with that die and today got 'Irwin' brand die, nominally the same size (7/16-20 NF), it worked as I would expect, cleaning up the threads with modest effort and the nuts exhibit less clearance. The new grade 8 nuts I bought are looser than the originals (?) I took off. dunno - hope the two studs I did first don't strip when I torque... I threw the MM die away.

This project is taking longer and costing more than I'd hoped - I'm sure that never happens to anyone else...

David

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It?s funny you talk about the nuts and bolt and availability. I?ve been buying boxes of nuts and bolts from ebayers. Now I have a working
inventory of correct Ferguson bolts. After spending $30 on four bolts I started looking for them.
 
The head studs that you ran the die over...

Replace them! Never a good idea to run a die over bolt threads, it will undersize them.

The original threads are rolled on, not cut.

Running a tap through a threaded hole is acceptable, for external threads a wire brush is best.

BTDT!
 
your post is a real day brightener Steve - talk about mission creep...

I've found OEM (?) studs at Jacks, and put in a request at ARP for a quote - interestingly, at Jacks the long studs are $8.64 and those 1-7/8" short ones are $18.40. I think I can go to NAPA and get the short ones out of a bin at a reasonable cost.

I'll have to come by a stud removing tool also, altho I could try vice grips...

In my defense, these studs were beyond wire brush clean up, one of them spun out removing the head and I worked on it with a wire wheel and could not get it to thread smoothly -

would you heat the bottom of the installed studs before attempting removal? This should have been done while the cylinders were out -
 
just for everyones information - from ARP

David,
Here are the part numbers we have close...
AP2.090-1SB (7/16" stud, 2.090" overall, .750" coarse with 1.000" of fine thread) $4.30 each
AP4.600-1SB (7/16" stud, 4.600" overall, .750" coarse with 1.000" of fine thread) $6.25 each
200-8510 (7/16 washer with .812" o/d) $1.00 each
200-8605 (hex nut with 5/8" wrenching) $0.82 each
300-8303 (12 pt nut with 1/2" wrenching) $2.30 each

I don't like the 'long' short stud, but it should work, its the shortest they offer - I went with the hex nuts - stuff is USA made and now on its way from California - doubt I'll get them before the weekend tho, so this project will last into next week -

The radiator shop called and a recore is necessary - it'll be $325 when they are done with a 3 year warranty and done by Friday - twice the price of the chinese replacements, but it will be "perfect", that's a quote from the shop...

back together -

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Better now than later! LOL

Yeah, when they get rust pitted, time for new ones.

They will probably come out with out heat.

Some penetrating oil and tapping down on the end will help.

You can heat the stud down near the block if necessary, but let it cool before trying to get it out, more penetrant, repeat...

Once out, you can run a tap in the holes. Any that go into the water jacket will need sealer, like the liquid Teflon pipe sealer, Permatex, etc.
 
Taking the head studs out can be accomplished by putting one nut on the top threads then tighten another down to it and then turn the bottom one to take out the stud.
 
yes - that is what I did - only a couple fought me - I have had cases where the jamb nut technique was not enough, and I am always looking for an excuse to get another tool, tho my budget is in shambles as this project was not on it -

looking closely at the studs I removed it is indeed time for replacement, it's just that it's another hundred dollars and another few days added to the overhaul -

I do feel good about it - this has been a handy little tractor and worthy - after I'm done with it it'll treat someone else right -
 

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