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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
Show Parts for Model:

1952 TO30 starting problems

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foxtooth

03-02-2018 04:38:43




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Don't know if last one went thru but...I am having starting issues with Fergie, went to start and wouldn't. Tried again and got smoke from mech switch. I've gotten smoke before but was usually taken care of when I tighten things down, not this time. Tried shorting out the switch posts with a screwdriver and just got a bunch of Sparks. I pulled the starter and jumped it with my truck it' spun so I assume it's OK. Bought a new switch from this website and and huffed it. The switches are either a bad design or just cheap aftermarket. Why do they make them so that when you tighten The wires on it moves the post inside to rub up against itself??? Decided to take all associated wires off and clean them, clean battery posts etc rebuilt the switch with new gasket material and parts from old switch put everything back together and get nothing. Scratching a hole in my headů your thoughts would be appreciated.

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fOXTOOTH

03-10-2018 15:12:15




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 Re: 1952 TO30 starting problems in reply to foxtooth, 03-02-2018 04:38:43  
Thanx for your reply, I thought about that but unless there is something I don't know...I mean I pulled the dizzy out with all the wires connected and just let it hang straight down. I don't think I could turn it upside down because the wires would twist...



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Ron(Ont)

03-10-2018 14:41:51




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 Re: 1952 TO30 starting problems in reply to foxtooth, 03-02-2018 04:38:43  
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If you have good spark to all the plugs and cannot get a "fire" with ether, the spark is happening at the wrong time. You could be 180 degrees out.



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fOXTOOTH

03-10-2018 14:28:44




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 Re: 1952 TO30 starting problems in reply to foxtooth, 03-02-2018 04:38:43  
Rebuilt Starter and new switch installed( the old ones were definitely bad) Now, it will turn over fine but wont start. Is it possible I could have fried something with a short in the starter or by something else? I got spark to all plugs, I got gas to the carb, I've used a NAPA quality battery jumper, I have even used ether and get nada. Ive noticed the starter runs really good when I forget to turn on my key, but as soon as I do it does bog it down a little. Is there a way I can start the motor with a bypassed ignition switch? bypass ammeter? Note: I did hve to remove the dizzy to get the starter out, but am almost certain I got it back in the correct position and have even tried turning it a little while cranking just in case.

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foxtooth

03-03-2018 14:54:57




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 Re: 1952 TO30 starting problems in reply to foxtooth, 03-02-2018 04:38:43  
I think it may be a fried starter. Today I tried to jump it again with the battery both connected and disconnected and didn't get anything. No start no sparks. Disconnected the starter, Which by the way with an aftermarket starter I have to remove the dizzy, sure wish I would have had the original rebuilt instead, tried to jump the Starter with the truck and this time did not spin it. Now to fix this switch again, ugh. Starter isn't that old and switch was brand new- I guess they just don't make them like they used to is true fo sho.

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Ron(Ont)

03-02-2018 17:20:29




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 Re: 1952 TO30 starting problems in reply to foxtooth, 03-02-2018 04:38:43  
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Just a thought. Your 12 volt truck battery caused the starter to run just fine. Correct. Your 6 volt tractor battery did not. Correct?

Hmmm? How good a shape is your 6 volt battery???? :?
I have given my 6 volt tractor a "boost" by using 12 volts on the starter. It spins like heck. :P



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Tom Bowman

03-02-2018 11:10:15




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 Re: 1952 TO30 starting problems in reply to foxtooth, 03-02-2018 04:38:43  
I went through something similar several months ago.
The ultimate problem turned out to be a dead short to ground in the starter motor. I had it rebuilt, and now it's fine. (I was also just getting sparks when I jumpered directly from the battery to the starter. Like Ron, I'm a bit confused about your starter spinning when you hooked it up to your truck battery.)

If you tightened all of your connections, including the one at the post on the starter, you may have turned the piece inside the starter, causing it to short out. (I think that's what I did.)

I also went through a bad starter switch, but looking back, I think I may have fried the terminals with the shorted-out starter. (I ended up reinstalling my original starter switch.)

I also noticed the same problem as foxTOOTH with the posts on the aftermarket starter switch.

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foxtooth

03-02-2018 16:10:06




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 Re: 1952 TO30 starting problems in reply to Tom Bowman, 03-02-2018 11:10:15  
Thanx for your reply. Come to think of it, the post on the starter was hard to get tightened down if I did at all. Maybe I'll just have a look see if that dead short is the case in there ... so many porcupines, so little time.



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Ron(Ont)

03-02-2018 10:09:08




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 Re: 1952 TO30 starting problems in reply to foxtooth, 03-02-2018 04:38:43  
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You have me puzzled here, before I can get to the switch problem. If you pulled the starter and it worked from your truck battery, the hot jumper should have spun it too. Try it again with the ground jumper on the battery as well. Remember, in neutral. :!:
If this does not work, bring the truck to the tractor and jumper it straight to the starter. Make sure the vehicles do not touch. BTW, is the tractor 12 volt +ve ground (with a generator), or 12 volt -ve ground with an alternator?

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foxtooth

03-02-2018 16:01:57




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 Re: 1952 TO30 starting problems in reply to Ron(Ont), 03-02-2018 10:09:08  
Thanx for your reply. No offense but I'm kinda glad I am not the only one confused about this. I forgot to say this is a 6 V positive ground system with a generator. I will try your suggestions tomorrow if I can



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Ron(Ont)

03-02-2018 05:45:31




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 Re: 1952 TO30 starting problems in reply to foxtooth, 03-02-2018 04:38:43  
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The switch should be removed and the contacts cleaned. When they start to arc, they leave carbon deposits witch increases the resistance, reduces the current, and makes it harder to start. The original switches are usually better made than the new ones.
An easier way to test the starter is to take a jumper lead from the "hot" side of the battery directly to the starter. Make sure the tractor is in NEUTRAL. That bypasses your wiring and switch.

Not sure about the TO30, but does the battery ground wire go to the dash? If so reroute it to a bolt on the engine.

Here is some help for the switch... http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ferg&th=55215

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ferg&th=121015

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foxtooth

03-02-2018 09:40:32




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 Re: 1952 TO30 starting problems in reply to Ron(Ont), 03-02-2018 05:45:31  
Thanx for your reply. My internet is down so I am on my phone and for some reason can't open the links you sent. Battery reads 100%Running a jumper from hot to the starter all I get is sparks. The ground is to the motor. The new switch wasn't corroded- inside, the bar that is pushed up to make contact with both sides was melted in half in the middle. The reason I replaced the old switch was because It was turning a post on the inside whenever I tried to tighten the wires. When this happens, the turning post on the inside cuts through the cardboard gasket and touches the metal housing. I can't tighten it all the way AND it would be shorting out the switch hot side wouldn't it? I'm asking cuz IDK. If that is the case might be why I get nothing now after I fixed the switch- the dang posts inside still turned and no matter how careful I was tightening the wires. I had to hold the top of the posts with vice grips while I tightened the nut- still could not get them tight.

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