Sherman install

pomester

Member
In case there's interest here's a pictorial of the Sherman install that consumed a bit of time over the past few days -

I have a TO30 that needed engine work that necessitated pulling the engine - I had scored an Sherman combination 3-4 years ago off of eBay and had cleaned it up, inspected, and procured a few minor items (shims and gaskets and a seal) in case this day would ever come -

engine pulled, I went ahead and removed the steering pedestal, starter mechanism, brake and clutch cross shafts, and input shaft to clear the area - nasty oily (leaking rear main seal on the engine) - I later went ahead and pulled the shift cover so I could see what was going on with the preload on the bearing
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a quart of kerosene and half a can of brake cleaner later and the area was fit to work in
10427.jpg


The mounting flange and shims and gasket - to make a long story short, I didn't need the shims and I also made a gasket out of thin material to get the input shaft acceptably close to the bearing
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flange installed and Sherman about to be bolted into position
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after a couple of times in and out I tightened things so to locate the shifter hole - I was worried about this aspect, large holes in heavy metal is a weak point in my skill set -
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I used a bit of angle iron and machinist square to locate the center of the hole
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removed the transmission again and drilled a pilot hole and then went with a bimetal hole saw
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I was pleasantly surprised at how straightforward/easy it was - I cleaned up the hole with a grinder, shot a bit of gray primer on the area and put the Sherman back in position - I'm satisfied with the result
10433.jpg


for future reference, this hole is centered at 2-7/16" down from the pedestal machined surface and 14-1/8" forward of the transmission flange

filled with GL-1, new seal on the input shaft, shifter in position - the Sherman and the piece it replaced -
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tomorrow I'll put the starter (needs work) and cross shafts back - also trying to move ahead on the engine...
 
The Gl-1 that you used was what brand and what weight? and where did you purchase it?
email is also open. thanks
 
NAPA has it in quarts, gallons, and 5 gallon buckets - I did a good clean and refurbishment of the trans/hydraulic/rear end two years ago and used this fluid in those reservoirs -
 
I,m looking for 140, I checked at Napa about a year ago and was told that 140 was not
available. thanks
 
I hear John Deere 'corn head grease' mentioned sometimes as a thick flowable oil for use in places like steering gear boxes where seals have deteriorated and lighter lubricants leak out - -

have you the special gun with fitting that is used for those crawler rollers?
 
yes its the Lincoln gun, Would prefer to stay with GL1, that is what I've always used and I
have no leaks. I have located a place that can get it for me in a 5 gal bucket, it's just
that it is about a 120 mile round trip for me. Thanks
 
Did you also install a rubber grommet at the hole?

I have not, but it is on the 'incidentals' list - I'm not sure where to find one that will fit, it would need to be wide to cover the casting thickness - I'll see what the local hardware offers, maybe take two and glue them together, or just cut the lip off one side and glue it to the case from the outside - dunno -

have you a suggestion?

David
 
yes - I went thru the rear end and transmission two years ago, cleaned the reservoirs, and filled with GL-1

I read here and elsewhere the pros and cons of various lubricants and finally decided to fill with what it came from the factory with - the decision was somewhat eased by the fact I seldom use the hydraulics so thinner oil during the cold season isn't much of an advantage - I do like the heavier oil for high pressure/low speed gearing such as is in the transmission and differential -

My Fords came with separate reservoirs for the transmission/differential/hydraulic and came with lighter weight fluid in the hydraulic - I do run 134 fluid across all those reservoirs now and it seems likely the tractors will outlast me -
 

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