Intermittent spark at coil on Z134 engine

Rocky Field Farmer · Jan 15, 2018

Just bought a Massey Ferguson that appears to be a 202 with loader. The plate is missing under the steering wheel. The plate on the engine is a Z134. The guy I got it from had done a lot of tinkering on it and so far I have replaced the points and plugs. The new condenser I got with the points has a welded mounting bracket and the distributor plate has a loop for a smooth condenser. He had installed new wires but they are carbon core (heading out in a little while to get copper core) he also managed to crack the rotor button so I replaced too but couldn't get a new distributor cap, will be picking up with the wires. I am going to jump straight to the coil to see if that helps, if not I will replace the coil also. I looked inside the carb and it looked like the venturi was installed wrong. Marvel Schebler carb. It is about 10 degrees outside and if I get this engine to run and run smooth at this temp it will be amazing. IF my fixes don't work I will be asking questions. Thanks in advance

cdmn · Jan 15, 2018

The small wire between the coil and distributer may be shorting out
where it goes into the distributer. Discovered that myself last summer.

Steve@Advance · Jan 15, 2018

Intermittent spark can be caused by dirty or arced points. Try cleaning the points with a business card and choke/brake cleaner. Even though new, they may have some corrosion or oil on them.

Also the condenser, even if new can be bad. Doesn't matter how it mounts, but it must be tight to the base plate for ground.

Check the primary wire between the distributor and coil, it could be loose or broken internally. Pull on it, should be solid, not springy.

Is the distributor clamp and bolt tight? The housing must be grounded.

Check the power to the coil. Could be a loose wire, failing resistor (if equipped), failing ignition switch.

If you have an incandescent test light, connect it between the - terminal of the coil and ground. The light should come on each time the points open, off each time they close.

Check for side play in the distributor shaft. If worn, even a little, the points won't stay set.

Rocky Field Farmer · Jan 15, 2018

Thanks guys! I replaced the wire from the distributor, new plugs, checked and cleaned the points. Started and ran fairly smooth but would cut off after a few seconds. No fuel, went to parts store bought new fuel line/inline filter installed. Still not getting gas like it should. I took the sediment bowl off and cleaned all the silicone out of and off of it. Cut a new gasket and put it back together without a screen. Ran for about ten minutes. Good to go! I let it cool off and me warm up for a little while, replaced the carb intake tube and took my first trip. Made it to a tree I had cut up a few days ago and the tractor cut off. I put several sticks in the bucket then messed with the fuel again. Got back home and dumped the wood in the shed. Forgot to mention that the guy told me he had the tank cleaned. I think with a little more fine tuning and maybe sealing the gas tank I will have a pretty good loader tractor. Thanks again for all the info!

Tom H. · Jan 15, 2018

If you?re running an in-line filter you need to make sure it is a gravity fed filter. Running for 10 minutes then cutting out is a fuel problem. Had
the same problem when I ran an in-line filter. Took it out and just used the one under tank and metal fuel line to the carb. Let us know how you
make out.

Steve@Advance · Jan 15, 2018

Yes, pleated paper filters can be too restrictive, need the fine screen type.

Also the fuel line should be steel, not copper, and routed away from exhaust heat.

And, check the cap. It must be vented. Even if it says vented, check to be sure it really is. I bought one recently, asked for vented, cap said vented... It wasn't!

If there was silicone in the separator, good chance it may have made it to the carb. There may also be a screen in the inlet fitting, that could be clogged.

Rocky Field Farmer · Jan 16, 2018

Hauled three loads of wood in the bucket (24" x 14" green) and the tractor ran good. The last thing that I did was take the sediment bowl/cutoff apart so I could do a good cleanup. I didn't see anything that should have caused the problem but who knows I may have blown it away.

I have to move on to a couple of leaks the first is the power steering assist cylinder and the hose on the right (setting on the tractor) loader lift arm hose where it attaches near the bottom of the stanchion seems to be overly long and know me I will snag it on something in the woods. It has a swivel and it is leaking some from it anyway. How long should this line be? I will be taking it to a place that puts custom hydraulic hoses together to see what they can do.

Thanks everyone for hanging in there for a newbie on this particular tractorl

Intermittent spark at coil on Z134 engine

Rocky Field Farmer

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cdmn

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Steve@Advance

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Rocky Field Farmer

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Tom H.

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Steve@Advance

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Rocky Field Farmer

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